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OK. Well I looked at my front tire as my son rolled the bike, and I couldn't discern anything. Maybe I'll see something once it is removed. I'll report back on it.
 

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Well, I done got both tars sitting in my house. Right inside the front door where The Warden is sure to love seeing them first thing when she walks in the door. She went to Tybee Island this weekend with her mudda and aunt. Coming home today. Them tars sure do look purdy. But she won't be too jazzed to see them there.

Now it's just a matter of will power. To get my lazy Shrek self out there and figure out a way to prop the front end up off the floor. And tear off the wheels. I have a mechanic who does good work for me. I bet he won't even bat an eye to put the CT on the rear wheel.

Do you all "reckon" I'll need to have the CT balanced? Or does it balance well enough? Buddy does balancing, but I don't know if he can balance sickle wheels on his machine. May still have to take them to a bike shop for balancing...


7milesout
 

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Do you all "reckon" I'll need to have the CT balanced? Or does it balance well enough? Buddy does balancing, but I don't know if he can balance sickle wheels on his machine. May still have to take them to a bike shop for balancing...
7milesout
Personal preference for me but I use the tire beads. I add I think about a cup of those just before setting the bead. I can't say implicitly that they work but I have not noticed any vibrations during my three years on a CT. The beads are cheap and have not caused any issues I am aware of. I think a spin balance would be good also but I have seen too many tires that have came out with a stack of weights on one side instead of finding the issue of why the imbalance is there. If you get the spin balance pay close attention to the outcome.
 

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7milesout,

You might consider getting 90degree air valves and a substance called Ride-On ...a puncture sealant .... A lot of the guys here use it.
 
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I haven't tried the Ride On but I will look for it. The 90 degree valve stems are an excellent idea also.
 

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Blacktruck,

Dave_J speaks highly of Ride-On, and I speak dirty every time I have to add air to my stock air valves.

Also a bit of grease paint on the sidewall inline with the air valves so you can see it while rolling the bike from handlebars.
 

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The rear has a nice 90° valve already. The front from my memory does not. I can get my air valve on them decently already. The rear is pointing out to the exhaust side. Would it be mo' bettuh that way? Or pointing toward the Final Drive?

The only time I warshed the bike (recently) the wheels had some schmutz on them I couldn't get off. And my Shrek size wasn't loving getting down there trying to get my hand all up in there to clean it out. I just cleaned off the main dirt, but couldn't get the spots of schmutz. They looked much better after.

I'll look up the Ride-On, but what do you guys recommend for cleaning off the schmutz? My pressure warsher is kind of on the fritz. But I'm going to try to give them wheels a good cleaning whist they're off the bike. And of course the Final Drive is going to get torn into.
 

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One of those Cheerleader Charity Carwashes ..... when it’s real hot and they’re using cold water.
 
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The rear has a nice 90° valve already. The front from my memory does not. I can get my air valve on them decently already. The rear is pointing out to the exhaust side. Would it be mo' bettuh that way? Or pointing toward the Final Drive?

The only time I warshed the bike (recently) the wheels had some schmutz on them I couldn't get off. And my Shrek size wasn't loving getting down there trying to get my hand all up in there to clean it out. I just cleaned off the main dirt, but couldn't get the spots of schmutz. They looked much better after.

I'll look up the Ride-On, but what do you guys recommend for cleaning off the schmutz? My pressure warsher is kind of on the fritz. But I'm going to try to give them wheels a good cleaning whist they're off the bike. And of course the Final Drive is going to get torn into.
Wait till swmbo leaves for a couple hours, deflate tire, (it's gonna get hot!) put it in an empty dishwasher (don't want it to smell like "sketti) sit back and let maytag do the dirty work. Be sure to re-grease it good during install, and have some kind of explanation for swmbo why dishwasher has black marks init and smells like a bf goodrich shop. ( i video'd drunkneighbor leavin the house with a tire in his hand, there was talk of shootin or hangin, or both)

valve stem should face drive side,,, don't mix beads and stop leak/punctuere seal EVER. I dunno about beads and plugs.
 

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OK, well, you've stumped me. I don't know if your wheel(s) in the dishwarsher is fo' real or not. If it is fo' real, I'll just axe The Warden to cook me something. She runs out of the kitchen like Carl Lewis when I do that.

If you're being fo' real, do I use the dishwarsher pods or not? And I would imagine the bearings should be removed … or they may wind up a bit dry when the wheels are done. I'm going to have to guess you're pulling my leg.
 

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let's just say just because I have done certain things, I wouldn't recommend them to someone else. now, running a new tire thru the dishwasher sans pod, to get it hot and stretchy for mounting, I could be talking into recommending that if the individual ran no risk of the significant other finding out about it, (dishwasher pods are so corrosive they dull knife blades etch glass, and do NOT rinse away completely)
 

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After I removed my rear wheel then the old BattleAx, I put a 5/8 inch steel tube into my bench vice at a 60 degree angle so the wheel would slide down and I could spin it. I then used Miguiers Mag wheel cleaner and a soft brass bristle brush to scrub the wheel clean. It took about 30 minuets

This is when I also cleaned the INSIDE of the rim and smoothed out the rippled surface if the rim's valley. As I spun the wheel I held a block of wood with 1800 grit 'Wet/Dry' emory cloth to the valley up to where the tire bead seat. I then put a polishing disc in my large Drimmel and used two compounds of 'Rubbing Compound' to fine smooth the alumium then 1 last polishing with Miguiers Mag Polish.

Note, not saying I did heavy grinding on my rim. JUST smoothing. I have a 'Paint Weight' scale and had weighted the rim before and after and it weighted about 20 grams less, about 3/4 ounce of alumium removed around the whole circumference evenly.

The Car tire went on smooth when lubed up. Using a REAL tire mounting lube, I painted the rims valley and the tires bead with this special tire mounting lube. I did not use soap or WD-40.
 

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Finally coming back to this thread because I have completed my Final Drive repair. That's a whole nuther thread though. Why I'm replying on here is because I mentioned earlier that I thought my front tire had an issue. Turns out, the rear tire has a bubble one it, bigger in diameter than an egg, but sticks out about half an egg's worth. That is causing the wobble at low speed. Once going fast enough the bubble can't be felt. But it's a time bomb. So the CT will be going on as soon as I have the will power to pull the rear tire off again.

So ... tell me the rear fender secret. How can I get the rear wheel on / off without declaring war on the rear fender? I had to take a couple screws out just above the license plate just to get a bit more fender flex. With a CT, I would imagine, the combat at the rear fender may be more intense. As the only way to get it in is to lean the wheel / tire sideways. And the square shoulder of the CT would make the problem more worster.
 

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So ... tell me the rear fender secret. How can I get the rear wheel on / off without declaring war on the rear fender? I had to take a couple screws out just above the license plate just to get a bit more fender flex. With a CT, I would imagine, the combat at the rear fender may be more intense. As the only way to get it in is to lean the wheel / tire sideways. And the square shoulder of the CT would make the problem more worster.
I have changed my rear tire a few times. I am on my second C/T. Getting the rear wheel/tire assembly is no different than with a stock tire. It comes off the same way without removing any other parts or doing any serious gyrations of the bike or tire. I do not remove my exhaust or fender. Straight foward removal and reinstallation when completed.
 

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I have changed my rear tire a few times. I am on my second C/T. Getting the rear wheel/tire assembly is no different than with a stock tire. It comes off the same way without removing any other parts or doing any serious gyrations of the bike or tire. I do not remove my exhaust or fender. Straight foward removal and reinstallation when completed.
You forgot to tell me the secret. I don't find it nearly as easy as you portray it. Lots of geometry and cautious movements, and tire sliding to get it on / off. Unless there is a secret...
 

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You forgot to tell me the secret. I don't find it nearly as easy as you portray it. Lots of geometry and cautious movements, and tire sliding to get it on / off. Unless there is a secret...
yup there's a secret, I would tell you about the trick of putting a "platform" of some kind under the center stand to raise the height of the bike, and keeping a wedge shaped "helper " to lift the tire as you re install it, but that would give away the secret and I can't do that, but I might be persuaded to refer you to a video on youtube by one of our members, if a refrashing beferage happened to appear in my hands.
 

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You forgot to tell me the secret. I don't find it nearly as easy as you portray it. Lots of geometry and cautious movements, and tire sliding to get it on / off. Unless there is a secret...
Oops, yes I did forget to divulge the secrets of this. See message below.
yup there's a secret, I would tell you about the trick of putting a "platform" of some kind under the center stand to raise the height of the bike, and keeping a wedge shaped "helper " to lift the tire as you re install it, but that would give away the secret and I can't do that, but I might be persuaded to refer you to a video on youtube by one of our members, if a refrashing beferage happened to appear in my hands.
What mikeyMarine said is correct. It is a secret so please don't tell anyone about it. I raise the rear of the bike slightly by placing the center stand on a board to raise it about 2 inches higher. Once done, the tire will be able to be rolled out with minimal movements to get the also secret angle just right. The Burgman is an easy bike to remove the tire from. You will need to tie the front of the bike down.
 
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