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Discussion Starter #1
Replaced the present Car Tire at 24,050 miles and guess could have gone another 1000 or 2000 based on fact that edge still had estimated 1/10 rubber. However, it was for most part slick (left edge). Right edge not slick yet. Everythin below wear indicators for some time.

Much easier replacement this time than the troubles I had in previous Post BECAUSE Bob did it with his removal / install machine and spin balance machine.

Don't know what pressure he used to seatt it -- I am not sure I wanted to know. :eek:

$20 wheel off, use to be $15 wheel off. Either raised price or based it on fact he had to reset machine and extra weigh balancing. :confused:

Pictures;

Show old (24,050 Miles) and new Car Tire (same brand).

Show cut I made along edge to see how much rubber was left (I did not reach cord - hard to cut). Micrometer said 0.085 inch (estimate about 1/10 inch left). Except for being slick on left edge and below wear indicators everyplace, could run another 2000 I think. Might be concern about the slick if road was wet. I did not notice any problems last 1000 or more miles.

Pretty easy Wheel Off as you know - No need to remove plastic, take muffler to exhaust pipe clamp loose, three muffler mounting bolts, remove caliper, remove swing arm (triangle with axle nut holding one end and two bolts on front section, then pull wheel off (splines in Hub and Axle).

Then load wheel and new tire on NINJA TRUCK and go to Bob's. His part was about 30 MIN to replace tire. Very Professional Capable Mechanic with 28 years of owning a shop before he retired here and about 8 or more MCs of his he is an enthusiast and loves working on bikes.

I have wheel back on and swing arm on (finger tight). I have to get new rear pads as mine are Paper Thin. Then install Caliper and Torgue Swing Arm and Axle. Then install muffler and good to go for another 24K or 25K miles. :D


$46.15 for tire and $20 for install.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
EBC Rear Brake Pads came in Friday (Mountain Motor Sports ordered and received). Installed -- Pictures show views of the setup.

1) Worn Pads -- Bottom one was on the metal at top edge (about 1/8 inch).
2) Shows assembly of pads (old one) and the Bolts that have to be removed to get the pads out and in (Allen Head). I partly installed them for the picture, to show them.
3) The Piston with ( + ) is the one that has to be screwed in.
4) I used end of Flat File to screw it in.
NOTE: Clean the pistons as best you can before pushing back in.
5) I cleaned up the OEM parts and reused them - used alcohol and a rag just to get the worse off.
6) New pads ready to install.

Only real problem is messing with the Emergency Brake Piston as you have to screw that one in (it does not push in like other pistons). I screwed that piston in all the way with end of a Flat File. Then after getting everything installed, you have to mess with Emergency Brake Adjustment. Not sure I followed normal procedures for all that, but it works.

I then torqued Swing Arm Bolts (2 of them) and Torqued Axle Nut and installed muffler.

Rode about 180 miles Saturday and 209 miles Sunday (today).

All seems OK, but maybe a bit out of balance problem (felt at 70 plus MPH). Guy did spin balance, I would think it was done right as the guy is a Do it Right Guy.

I don't know. Maybe my front tire as it has some wear and scalloping. Maybe nothing, but I seem to feel a vibration (not bad) that I do not remember with old tire.

No pictures of tire wear yet as not may miles on the tire.
 

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thanks for the pics...looks like removing muffler is necessary before rear wheel can come off.

is this your first rear brake pad change @ 24k miles?
 

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Whoa. I thought it was on your 650 until I noticed the oil fill on the right hand side. My oil fill on 2013 650 Burg is on the left side.

Is this tire change on your Burg 400 or 650? Thanks for the photo's.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Whoa. I thought it was on your 650 until I noticed the oil fill on the right hand side. My oil fill on 2013 650 Burg is on the left side.

Is this tire change on your Burg 400 or 650? Thanks for the photo's.
The 400 - This is second Car Tire for this Scooter.
First Tire Change (DETAILS included in a POST on the FORUM last Jan/FEB).

Muffler, yes - must remove on the 400. Details posted on first Car Tire Change (it shows one way to do it - mainly tie muffler up to support it while taking bolts loose and pulling it off the exhaust pipe). The 2011 has a clamp at Exhaust Pipe from engine to the muffler pipe (easy to get to, the post shows how I did it).

I am not putting all those deatails nad pictures I shopwed befroe and no need tos heo again. si
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I am a little early searching for another Car Tire (Achilles Brand), but I am getting close to needing one at 37,837 as of Jan 1, 2017. Probably good for another 1000 or 3000 miles. Thinking about replacing and be ready for summer, plus better tire for rest of winter riding. I mean only about a $50 deal.

I installed 1st car tire at 6190 miles to replace the OEM and one at 24,050 to replace the first car tire. Now have about 39,200 (did not read since Jan 1).
So, got 15,860 first tire and now at 15,100 +/- on this one.

Anyway, just thought I would pass on some information from my search.

Using a 155 - 70R - 13 same as past two car tires

All that is documented on this FORUM (I searched back and found information on Page 33 - detailed on first installation and problems and less detailed on the second installation).

Anyway, previously I bought the tire fromwww.tireeasy.com). Achilles Premium 155 70R 13

Apparently, the tire model name has been changed to Platinum 7 (looks like the same tire).

Found it on a couple sites:

https://simpletire.com/achilles-155-70r13-mae157013-tires $35.99 plus shipping (I have not ordered yet, so don't know exactly what it will be, but that is cheaper than TireEasy was.

https://www.onlinetires.com/cart.php for $29.93 plus shipping quoted at $20.16 = $50.09 total

I don't think this is the Premium 7 - It's called an Achilles 122 (it's T Rated)
I would prefer the other Premium 7 -- For INFO, here it is.
https://www.tires-easy.com/cart for $28.86 Plus shipping $23.60 = $52.46
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I decided on the OnLineTire and ordered from them. Very good service and delivery. Info on last post.

Not to happy the tire was built week 43 of 2014 (it's over 2 years old) and will be awhile before I put it on (have not wore out old one).

Not a real problem as far as I am concerned, up to 5 years is OK. Jsut would have preferred a newer made tire.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I've been extremely happy with the Nokian winter tire with which I darksided my 650. So I'm trying a Nokian winter tire on the 400K7 next. Reports to follow.
I did a POST on Burgman 400 site sometime ago regarding DARKSIDE on my Burgman 400. You might want to search it. The one I am using has symmetrical tread (not really a big deal, but I think works a bit better).

Get about 20K Miles on the Car Tire.

Good Luck doing it.
 

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Hey Paul, I noticed on the top post, first pic where you show old vs new tire... you say they are the same, but the new looks about an inch shorter. Is that because the old is still on wheel and aired up?

Do you notice a tendency to stay straight up on the car tire, as opposed to being able to easily lean it over in a curve with a rounded tire?

Thanks.

Oh... and how hard was it to convince BOB of putting on a car tire on the MC wheel?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Hey Paul, I noticed on the top post, first pic where you show old vs new tire... you say they are the same, but the new looks about an inch shorter. Is that because the old is still on wheel and aired up?

Do you notice a tendency to stay straight up on the car tire, as opposed to being able to easily lean it over in a curve with a rounded tire?

Thanks.

Oh... and how hard was it to convince BOB of putting on a car tire on the MC wheel?
Does look like new tire is smaller than the old one even with the tread worn off the old one. Perhaps being on the rim and aired up (old tire) makes it look larger, don't know --- They are the same tire.

Bob runs a shop (excellent one) out of his basement. He is retired and a MC Maniac (was big time drag racer at one time and big into doing restorations on stuff you would not want to mess with). He had a shop up north before retiring here. No Problem for him --- he has installed Car Tires on Goldwings and Valkyrie.

Nothing else --- install it your self ( I did using a tire stand and hand tools the first time, had a heck of a time getting the tire on the rim and had a hard time getting the bead to seat). Also, I did not have a balance stand then (other tires I set back on the axle and balanced -- cannot do that with Burgman due to spline gears in the hub).

I have since bought a balance stand, not sure it will work on that wheel. I used it on the wheel for my CB500X. ANYWAY, for $20 install and balance (spin balance by Bob) -- Let Him Do IT (That is Wheel off for $20).

There is a slight feel difference with the car Tire --- NEGLIGIBLE, you will not notice it after a bit.

AND, I am riding CURVES galore in East TN Hills and Mtns (ever hear of the Dragon? - many roads around here like that).

I am not riding 60 degree leans, but believe me I RIDE harder than a lot of folks.
 

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Got the tire mounted yesterday (Nokian Noordman 5 155/70R13 winter tire). It took 110psi to set the beads, exactly the same as the Nokian winter tire with which I darksided my 650. The profile at the tread edge was more "square" than I expected and sure enough it rubbed on the engine case. I rounded the squarish edge on both sides (and re-balanced it) and everything fit although it's a tight fit against the case with full tread. I'll fix that in a few months with a 3000-mile ride down the coast.

Can't road test it yet, because the bolt on that @%^*#*&^%@#&^@#$%ing exhaust clamp galled and stripped when it was loosened. I'll buy a new bolt tomorrow and give a road test report.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
miken6mz Glad you got it. Those pressures worry me, but so far I have had no problems from running the PSI (up to around a 100 PSI). However, if you read about tires and mounting pressure most say around the amount it takes normally (talking car tire on car rim) to be safe. Who knows waht the average shop does to seat a car tire on a car rim --- some folks have said 100 psi not a problem for tire or rim (they of course or not scientific).

OH Well !!!!! Take your chances. Just realize one could have serious things happen if for instance a rim gave way or even if a tire exploded. That thing could go sailing across the room.

The first one I did by myself and I could not get it seated myself. I tried to stay less than 80 or 90 PSI and heated the tire with Hair Dryer, used rubber mallet trying to beat the unseated area in, let it set overnight.

Finally, went to a buddy with bigger compressor. We tried several times with no luck (not sure what pressure he got to). Then sprayed the bead and rim with Dupont MC TEFLON Chain Lube and the next time it seated. Still, I don't know what pressure he got to as he was fooling with it and I had no measurement.

The second one Bob did -- he just did it (have no idea what pressure he went to).
 

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Installing the Michlen Gold Standard Bias ply MOTORCYCLE tire on the rear I had to pump it up to 75 PSI to get it to seat.

The Tire Installer's Book says never go over 40 PSI to mount. I have a tire on my wifes car that took 70 PSI to seat the bead and it is run at 50 PSI.
 

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Yeah my tire guy will only go to 85psi and that's only because I've done business with him for 35 years, ever since his dad opened their shop. I have a special "procedure" for the high pressure, I cover the wheel assembly with 3 heavy furniture pads in the middle of an empty driveway, hook up a locking inflator to the valve stem, and then hide behind at least 1 wall of the house 50 feet away while I increase the regulator pressure listening for the "pops." Then I can lower the pressure at the compressor until it's back to 30 or wherever I want to run it, so I'm never anywhere near that potential bomb.
 

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....potential bomb
Potential bomb is right, I wouldn't want to be near that either.

The tyre doesn't even need to explode.
At those pressures the bead can pop with enough force to break the rim and sends shards of it into the air. Those shards have been known to pass through human skulls.

Be careful, the rim was specifically designed to prevent car tyres being mounted.
Skulls weren't designed for catching flying metal.
 

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First ride report on the darkside Nokian Noordman 5 155/70R13 winter tire, in a word, GREAT. The bike feels more stable and that oversteer feeling is gone (coming from the 650 the 400 always felt to me as if it wanted to oversteer). The little motorcycle wheel-balancer I bought at HF Tools is one of the few machines I bought there that worked for me and didn't have to be returned. The wheel balanced easily and there's no vibration up to 70mph (true mph, 75mph indicated) which is my personal top end on the 400. The tire is softer which makes the ride more comfortable and I get a slight overdrive. I can't wait to do a 3000-mile road trip on the 400 soon.
 

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The flatter car tire has a smaller diameter, therefore it need more rpm to hit the same top speed which is about 95 mph in my setup.

With a scooter tire, I was hitting 95 mph at just under the redline at 9000 rpm. However, with a car tire it gets a couple of 100 rpm above redline to hit the same speed. Problem is I am a "lead foot".

This inadvertent redlining of the engine is a serious problem?? Inviting comments from other dark-sider's.....
 

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