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there is almost as good a chance of the rim breaking as the rubber exploding, make sure your safety gear is bulletproof and shrapnel resistant, (there's a difference) or , let it sit in the sun, a day's delay is worth an arm or an eye, or both ears
I went downtown to the tire guy and he said welcome to use his OUTSIDE air compressor that goes up to 160psi so put on my helmet, cycle gloves, and heavy duty cycle jacket with armor inside and went to 116 psi and NO LUCK WAS SO CLOSE from seating about 6 inches less than 1 cm to go around in that one spot but NO LUCK. I did not feel like doing anymore so gave up and went home pouting. EVERYONE says 100-110 psi it is a federal formoza 155/65/14 did not want to go 165/65/14 as others have done but that should not matter right as long as 14 inch is 14 inch and others have used that size before am sure with decent luck with 110 psi to seat the bead on rim. If I had a LONG hose and safety nozzle to go on without holding it on I would have gone higher in psi to say 125 psi might have done it or might have not? But me holding onto 116 psi air nozzle even with cycle helmet and gloves and heavy duty jacket would probably be NO good if tire explodes right? If held on for 1 more second am sure would have been over 120 psi was just guessing that pump compressor he has is heavy duty 160psi max went from 84 to 116 psi in about 4 seconds is all. My tire gauge only goes up to 120 psi so double checked with his tire gauge at tire shop and was pretty much right on both around 116 to 118 psi for both gauges. That should have been enough right??????? I am so ticked right now the tire shop has heard of safety cages but he does not know who has one so I can just hookup hose and let it go to 120 or 130 psi and either tire will shred or seat on bead 1 of the 2? I also let sit outside on patio and NO sun NO heat only 54 degrees out and cloudy where is the SUN to HEAT things up? I also sprayed that 6 inch area with soapy water around the rim where it is still about 1 cm from tire going over the rim. It has or had plenty of grease on the rim/tire before I sprayed it with soapy water.
 

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Does it leak air? What would happen if you just mounted the wheel and rode on it?
That's a question, not giving advice.
 

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Does it leak air? What would happen if you just mounted the wheel and rode on it?
That's a question, not giving advice.
I had a rear on a 400 that the shop didn't seat fully, I rode it thinking the shop did it's job so I didn't check, it wasn't out much, a couple inches long and maybe 1/8 inch in, I could feel it before I got back to the house (13 miles) and fixed it when I got back to the cave. Just kind of a wobble/ vibration. Uncomfortable.
 

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If a bead seats suddenly because it is over pressurised ot a road shock gives it a nudge it can knock part of the flange off the rim and you get instantaneous decompression - a blow-out.

They also tend to sit unevenly or move to an out of round shape causing vibration/wobble.
 

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Please, please do NOT ride in a unseated tire. So many things that could go wrong.

The one thing that I did was to mount my rear wheel without my tire on a steel bar so I could spin it by hand. I then took some emory cloth wet/dry sand paper and while spinning the rim I held the cloth on the valley and bead areas of the rim. The rim has what is called a 125RMS surface, this is a 0.125 inch machined cut. It is not very smooth. I sanded mine down so it was closer to a 50 RMS or a 0.050" cut. This does not take much off the thickness of the rim, it just smooths out the surface. I then used Mothers mag wheel polish and a 2 inch buffing wheel on my drimmel and made the surface mirror smooth.
The before surface was rough enough that when you drug your fingernail on it, it would bump..bump..bump. This is in a 'Stair Step' coming up out of the valley of the rim. Hard to ride up stairs smoothly.
After surface is sooo smooth your fingernail can not find anything to drag on. The rubber tire will see this smoothness too.

The only reason the factory leaves a 125RMS surface inside the rim is its machined much faster and you do not see it. The outside of the rim is about a 35RMS surface and then clear coated. Very smooth to your finger.

I am not saying to GRIND your rim down. Polished and grinding are both removing some surface but polishing is done in very minor removal. I'd bet I removed no more than 5-6 grams of rough aluminum. 32 grams = 1 ounce.
 

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You guys made me do it! I have the wannabee maxi-cruiser 300 cc Kymco Downtown with the same wheel sizes as the Burg 400. Went with the Achilles 155/80R13 to get the OD bigger than the mc type scoot tire. It was either bigger or smaller OD using what you guys were using so I went bigger. The rpm/mph may be slightly lower with the larger OD but just barely. No downside whatever and only a little under 3000 miles since change so wear is not noticeable. Seated in the 50 psi area with dish detergent diluted some with water. Will try silicone lube next time. Had to make a flap to replace the sub-fender.
90119
 

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It has 116 to 118 psi in there still so for 1 week has NOT leaked air. Either I need to take my chances and put 125 psi in another 2-3 seconds with downtown compressor in hopes it does not fly off in pieces overinflating that high or lower the pressure again to nothing and like said, take fine sandpaper on the last one inch around the inside of the rim and hope inflating it again to 116 psi POPS all the way around since smoother and smidge less inside rim? Is only about 8 inches on one side about 1 cm from fully seating VERY close. But has been 1 week sitting in my shed outside but NOT that HOT out yet only in upper 50s low 60s for temps. Next time will go bigger 160/60/14 if can find a car tire that size or 165/65/14 being bigger since I think that federal fomoza 155/65/14 being 155 is not as tall/much rubber not flexing as much as it should but was hoping the 65 width vs. 60 would compensate for the shorter height of the rubber, guess not?

Yah, not going to mount and test drive on not fully seated rim. I went 155 vs. 165 car tire since I am heavier 290lbs. and wife on board 160lbs. want no rubbing around the fender and roads near me not that smooth. read reviews and most say 100-110 psi. tire dealer I paid 13 bucks so far for nothing to take old bridgestone cycle tire off and mount car tire but he would not do over 90 psi felt it was too dangerous to go any higher even though told him reviews state need 100-110 psi. I verfied my tire gauge with his and both were between 116-118 psi so that is I believe pushing it for a TIRE BLOWOUT shredding it -- AGREE or NOT??
 

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The 14" part is what determines if it will seat. A wider profile may help in a minimal way, I'd take it back down, polish the bead, keep the rubber in the house to get it warm, then try again.
 

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A 14 inch car rim is almost a true 14 inch. But a 14 inch motorcycle rim is about a true 14.25 inch. That 1/4 inch is what is the issue.

This was done way back in the late 1960's to keep Harley riders from putting a HUGE 15 inch bias ply truck/car tire on their bikes. The fix was just run an older Harley rim that was real 15 inch.

I cheated last time I did a Car tire. I waited for the wife to go shopping. I knew she would be gone about 4 hours. I took my car tire and pit it in our wall oven set on WARM. That is about 130 Degrees F. After 1 hour I took it out and it went on fairly easy.
 

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Tire manufacturers are sending workers home during this quarantine. A reliable source recommends all darksiders send an email to our preferred tire maker asking them to put a motorcycle BEAD on our favorite tire! That gets rid of most of the troll and bead seating problems. You might encourage them to check MIC (Motorcycle Industry Council) latest data to see how much business they are missing!
 

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well after going thru some 120 and 180 grit very fine sandpaper around both inside bead of the rims about 1 cm in or so where it will NOT go any further, I cleaned up the rim again and soapy watered it down and still NO luck same 8 inch area will NOT POP in place at 108 psi or so again.

I gave up and went to another tire place he said he cannot do it here, but his tire guy will take it home tonight and attempt to get it to set in the bead fully on but he was sort of pissy saying this car tire is NOT meant for a cycle rim being the federal formoza 155/65/14 vs. OEM cycle 160/60/14. He also said he will not go much over 50 psi and I said you need 100-110 psi supposedly to seat the bead and he said will not go that high is insane looking to blow. We shall see but 95% sure he will not get it done tomorrow when they call me back up telling me should be done or not done either way tomorrow late afternoon. I showed him was still around 100 psi this last attempt and he said I am nuts and he works on tires daily at a tire shop. If no go, I am screwed but will air it down again and keep sanding by hand a few hours and try it again myself on Friday. I did not like me leaving my rim/rotor sitting outside their tire shop doing it 'behind the scenes' since their tire shop will not do it in house is a liability reason. He better not take it home though and damage the rotor or rim or I will be pissed. One would think if others have used this tire it will go on right at say 110 psi? If I let it sit in the sun ONLY in the 50s and 60s for temps though this spring in WI, it does expand to less than 1cm to go in that 8 inch area not fully beaded on very very close.
 

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A reliable source recommends all darksiders send an email to our preferred tire maker asking them to put a motorcycle BEAD on our favorite tire!
I’ve been asked to comment on this.
From experience - this would be a waste of time and effort.
We used to call these “dehydration letters” or “dehydrated water letters”.

Manufacturers know the risk to stability and handling and they aren’t going to open themselves up to multi-million liability by pretending they don’t. Even if they did, the tyre couldn’t pass safety standards so they couldn’t sell it.
Also, to add a motorcycle bead they become bound by higher standards (bike tyre standard is higher than car).

To address this they would have to do several things,
reduce factors involved in wobble and loss of control, plus take out the carcass torsion in bends.
Cornering force and the pneumatic trail (because it determines the self- aligning torque)
The lateral relaxation length for standard car tyres measures around 400% greater than for a bike.

Both sides argue wrongly over the square v round profile.
It isn't there to make the bike easier to lean and all those videos of cornering tyres completely miss the point (or contact patch)
A leaning tyre turns on camber thrust and and turning cone effective length leaving you with minor steering adjustment and very little slip angle (unlike car tyre‘s much larger slip angle).
A rounder or v profile works with and enhances this effect and doesn’t have the potential store up energy-deform-release cycle that can unsettle a square profile tyre.

Radial car tyres have an abruptly increases and levels off. For control of a heavy bike it is better to have a slow, steady build and level off (hence bias ply are often used).

Moving a tyre into L class would also warrant a change to CSW construction and the tyre would become directional (unless it’s for low powered/mopeds). Compound will need upgrading.

Motorcycle tyres are required to damp certain critical frequencies so that will need to be addressed (stability issue).

It then has to go through standard stability and “lane change” test for final tweaking and apply for type approval.

So what you get in the end is - a motorcycle tyre

It would be much better to keep a low profile flying under the radar and not draw the attention of the authoroties which could make them enforce more stringent measures against darksiders as happens in most other countries. The legislation is technically already in place if they choose to clamp down.
 
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