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Cvt stopper bolt

7K views 30 replies 10 participants last post by  MJR 
I hope that fixes it but I suspect you will find the new bolt wears quickly. I've come to the opinion that a badly worn stopper bolt is not a cause for failure but a symptom that something else is wrong inside the CVT that is causing the stopper bolt to wear. I would keep a close eye on that new bolt to see if it starts showing signs of excessive wear. If it does I would tear down the CVT and check the bearings on the primary pulley.
 
The more I understand about the failures that have happened on the CVT the more I am starting to thing it is not a quality control issue on the parts but on the assembly. I can't come up with a way to prove it but I suspect the root cause of the failures that some see is the shims that position the primary pulley. I suspect that if the shimming process results in the primary pulley being close to the limit of spec it puts stress on the pulley assembly that eventually causes the bearings to fail. That would explain why some see early bearing failure and others (like me) go tens of thousands of miles with little wear on the bearings.

I know that if I every have to replace the bearings in my CVT I will take special care with the shimming process to ensure I get the best fit I can.
 
There were some changes made to the primary pulley assembly in the 2012 model that supposedly made it stronger.
 
The C51 code indicates either a problem with the electric motor or the controller signal to the motor.

The manual says to first check that voltage is being supplied to the motor by the ECM. You do this by putting the bike on the center stand and disabling the center stand switch. Insert probes into the CVT motor coupler then start the engine. Check that the voltage changes as the engine is reved up. If not then you either have a problem with the connection to the ECM or the ECM is bad.

If that checks OK the test the motor. Unplug the coupler then test that there is continuity between the red and black wires going to the motor.
Then test resistance between the wires at the coupler. It should be 0.8 ohms or less. If either test fails replace the motor.

If all that checks out then remove the motor from the bike. Apply 12 volts to the coupler wires and see if the motor turns. If so then reverse the wires and see if it turns in the reverse direction. If it does not do both then replace the motor.
 
I assume you're talking about the center stand switch. Where did you disconnect it from the wiring harness? Is it up under the seat or do you have to remove a bunch of crap to get to it.
The plug for the center stand switch is under the floorboard cover just in front of the seat. You might be able to get to yours just by removing the maintenance access cover and working through the holes in the floorboard cover but don't take bets on it. More likely you will have to remove the floorboards to get to it. There are several plugs in that location and you will have to make sure you get the one that goes down to the center stand switch and not one of the others.
 
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