[javajo]

Hi,
I have a 2007 w/ 53,000 mi. and a rebuilt CVT (all gears, belt etc.) w/ 3,000 mi on the rebuild. Over the past few days I've been noticing that the CVT seems to not engage as quickly especially from a full stop or when accelerating quickly, as in passing a vehicle. The CVT feels like it's slipping or not catching. This is on quicker starts and I know the Burgman doesn't like a fist full of throttle from a dead stop but I'm not being any more aggressive than I have been for the past 53,000 mi.

 

[MJR]

Curious on what parts were specifically replaced within the CVT?

If a new belt was replace then the break in procedure is recommended.

I might suggest doing the clutch test from the service manual and see what that shows.

AUTOMATIC CLUTCH INSPECTION
This motorcycle is equipped with an automatic clutch and variable
ratio belt drive transmission. The engagement of the clutch
is governed by engine RPMs and centrifugal mechanism located
in the clutch.
To insure proper performance and longer lifetime of the clutch
assembly it is essential that the clutch engages smoothly and
gradually. The following inspections must be performed:​

​

1. INITIAL ENGAGEMENT INSPECTION
Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature.​

Start the engine.
Seated on the motorcycle with the motorcycle on level ground, increase the engine RPMs slowly and note the RPM at which the motorcycle begins to move forward.


09900-26006: Tachometer

Engagement r/min: 1 500 – 2 100 r/min​

2. CLUTCH “LOCK-UP” INSPECTION
Perform this inspection to determine if the clutch is engaging fully and not slipping.​

Start the engine.
Apply the front and rear brakes as firm as possible.
Briefly open the throttle fully and note the maximum engine
RPMs sustained during the test cycle.

Lock-up r/min: 3 200 – 3 800 r/min

Do not apply full power for more than 3 seconds or damage to the clutch or engine may occur.​

 

[Jim]

Possible clutch issue.

Type of oil used?

Changed oil brands since the rebuild?

An excerpt from My saga. (Does any of this sound familiar?)

"Well it's been 250 miles since I noticed the slipping start. I've changed the oil twice, and it's getting worse!

In all cases, It's fine for the first 2-4 miles, or until it warms up. After 10 miles, it will barely get moving, and when it does I notice the RPM's are creeping higher in cruise, 4,500 @ 70 indicated. "

and

"As I remember on my 03, 4,250 rpm @ 70 indicated, on a calm day, level road, steady throttle. It will normally hunt up to 4,500, if there is a headwind, or slight up hill grade. If there was a slight down hill grade, or strong tailwind, 4,000 rpm.

The biggest thing I noticed now is, when I would just open the throttle (3/4), it would rev up to 7,500 rpm. Higher than when I would be in power mode. No pull either. If I held the throttle open while in drive mode while crusing @ 70, I could engage the rev limiter @ 8,500, while slowly climbing to 80.

Not good if you need to pass "

The whole saga here.
http://burgmanusa.com/forums/15-burgman-650/17783-slipping-clutch-fixed.html#post173084

 

[LeDude]

It may not be your CVT, but instead your clutch.

I had a similar issue before my CVT failure.

You can check my burg man center for the DIYs.

If the scoot feels sluggish as you try to get going, and kind of revs high until you are underway, and then settles down at speed, it,s the tell tell signs of a slipping clutch.

You can check the PPS to rule it out aa a possibility.

The clutch rebuild is a breeze compared to the CVT project.

Good luck.

 

[javajo]

It may not be your CVT, but instead your clutch.

I had a similar issue before my CVT failure.

You can check my burg man center for the DIYs.

If the scoot feels sluggish as you try to get going, and kind of revs high until you are underway, and then settles down at speed, it,s the tell tell signs of a slipping clutch.

You can check the PPS to rule it out aa a possibility.

The clutch rebuild is a breeze compared to the CVT project.

Good luck.

Thanks LeDude, After checking the clutch DYI I couldn't have described the problem better myself. My friend who rebuilt the CVT couldn't have done it with out the Burgman Ctr. support... so, thanks for that!

 

[MJR]

Some reading that might interest you starting at post #67.

http://burgmanusa.com/forums/15-burgman-650/49744-considering-choices-cvt-fails-7.html

Still suggest doing the clutch lockup test unless you just wanna take stuff apart. If the engine RPM's hold steady rather than slipping then I doubt its a clutch. Clutch failures while possible I can count on one hand.

 

[javajo]

Some reading that might interest you starting at post #67.

http://burgmanusa.com/forums/15-burgman-650/49744-considering-choices-cvt-fails-7.html

Still suggest doing the clutch lockup test unless you just wanna take stuff apart. If the engine RPM's hold steady rather than slipping then I doubt its a clutch. Clutch failures while possible I can count on one hand.

Thanks MJR,

Will do!

 

[Shoe]

What does the term "lock up" refer to when conducting tests?

We got a value of 2.2k on bike movement when increasing the throttle slowly, though there was a tug at 1.7

We got a value of 6K on the lock up test (brakes held, throttle opened full for 2 secs)

Looking to do an overhaul of all wearable & worn parts in the clutch, plates, gasket, not rollers though unless visual inspection, or someone else here says different.

 

[MJR]

What does the term "lock up" refer to when conducting tests?

We got a value of 2.2k on bike movement when increasing the throttle slowly, though there was a tug at 1.7

We got a value of 6K on the lock up test (brakes held, throttle opened full for 2 secs)

Looking to do an overhaul of all wearable & worn parts in the clutch, plates, gasket, not rollers though unless visual inspection, or someone else here says different.

Think of it as a stall speed in an automatics torque coverter, it's the maximum it will allow slippage wise. Sounds like your initial engagement is fine. Just to make sure on your stall speed it's being done with the engine warm and in Drive correct? If so then its possible its a slipping clutch. As it has been said it's an easy enough job to pull the clutch out and LeDude has tutorials for it. The one other thing I noticed on the '06 problem was while riding it in Manual mode starting it first it slipped bad but if I got the bike up to speed with some throttle shifting into 2nd would practically would snap my head off indicating the clutch was fine this because the CVT belt was slipping within the CVT in low.

 

[Shoe]

Thanks for that clarification, so the engine should stall if the clutch is not slipping, but since we were able to take it up to 6 and even toward 7 for .5 secs without stalling it looks more like a clutch issue. I know Jim has complained about a slow start and I can confirm that as I have ridden his bike, even at speed a sudden twist of the throttle means waiting for an increase - much as ledude described. I'll be doing the work on Jim's bike as I did when I overhauled his CVT.

Shoe

 

[MJR]

Stall speed is just the maximum speed that the engine can run at not that it stalls the engine. It should hold within the engine speed spec or a little higher but what you describe could be the clutch. There's not a factory test for CVT slippage. What I was just trying to say is riding it if it's the clutch it will slip under load and not just in Manual 1st/Power mode or drive starting out. I guess it could be loaded up riding along at say 20-30 mph, grab the brakes and open the throttle all the way to see if it slips. Anyway I'd guess pulling out the clutch and measuring the discs would be the next step. I'll be curious to see what the measurements show.