CVT removal
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It's not the official Suzuki way to do it, but I've previously linked to pictures showing it done on the German Burgman forum AN650.de (registration required, and link now dead)
Unfortunately, some old school wannabe mechanics on said forum repeatedly attacked the original poster for his methods, which involved liberal use of a hammer instead of a hydraulic press, so he replaced all his comments with:
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Unfortunately, some old school wannabe mechanics on said forum repeatedly attacked the original poster for his methods, which involved liberal use of a hammer instead of a hydraulic press, so he replaced all his comments with:
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=58503&p=539221
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1,724 Posts
Yes, I have information on that. I have removed a CVT twice using that method - it stills take far longer than 4 hours to remove the CVT, and as long again, to reinstall. The savings compared with complete removal of the engine/drivetrain/swing arm/rear wheel are relatively minimal (but a lot less than 10 months).
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3,989 Posts
My only concern was knowing how stuff is packed in up front that doing it that way might overstress or even break some parts in the process. I noticed a broken tab on the lower right quarter panel. I'm personally in the belief that sometimes doing a little more work is better if it makes the job easier. I do not mind using shortcuts if I'm comfortable with them and I've found a few that are helpful on the 3 Burgmans I've worked on.
Still beating the dead horse Garry.
Still beating the dead horse Garry.
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5,485 Posts
There just isn't a way to remove the CVT without at least lifting the frame, zero clearance there as you can see in the pics below.
You need at least 4-5 inches of clearance between the engine and the frame to back out the CVT from the primary and secondary housing.
You can check the video for the CVT removal to get a sense of how much room you need, around marker 1:47 of the video.
You can remove the CVT motor to gain some additional clearance with the frame lifted.
Once you loosen the engine bolts,you have to replace them, and you will have to loosen all three to lift the frame without causing stress issues.
You will also need at least 4-5 inches of vertical clearance, lifting the frame to drop the CVT assembly, which pretty much requires
disconnecting some or all of the electrical stuff as there is no slack in any of the connections.
I am not sure if you can use the CVT guides with the frame raised in the German case, they may not be essential when removing the CVT assembly, but
will definitely come in handy when re-installing the assembly.
It's a nice myth, but who knows maybe somebody on this forum can perform the feat and educate the rest of us by documenting it..
Anybody who has stripped a 650 to the bare frame has a pretty good idea how everything fits together and what the consequences can
be for over stressing those connection points. 650 tupperware ain't cheap.
The other consideration to take into account is that a shop mechanic might do it in 4 hours but one still gets billed for the number of hours
for the job as specified in the shop manual.
[attachment=1:1z9h7uv6]cvt myth 01.jpg[/attachment:1z9h7uv6]
[attachment=0:1z9h7uv6]cvt myth 02.jpg[/attachment:1z9h7uv6]
![]()
[youtube:1z9h7uv6]2tGr0zVKdNE[/youtube:1z9h7uv6]
You need at least 4-5 inches of clearance between the engine and the frame to back out the CVT from the primary and secondary housing.
You can check the video for the CVT removal to get a sense of how much room you need, around marker 1:47 of the video.
You can remove the CVT motor to gain some additional clearance with the frame lifted.
Once you loosen the engine bolts,you have to replace them, and you will have to loosen all three to lift the frame without causing stress issues.
You will also need at least 4-5 inches of vertical clearance, lifting the frame to drop the CVT assembly, which pretty much requires
disconnecting some or all of the electrical stuff as there is no slack in any of the connections.
I am not sure if you can use the CVT guides with the frame raised in the German case, they may not be essential when removing the CVT assembly, but
will definitely come in handy when re-installing the assembly.
It's a nice myth, but who knows maybe somebody on this forum can perform the feat and educate the rest of us by documenting it..
Anybody who has stripped a 650 to the bare frame has a pretty good idea how everything fits together and what the consequences can
be for over stressing those connection points. 650 tupperware ain't cheap.
The other consideration to take into account is that a shop mechanic might do it in 4 hours but one still gets billed for the number of hours
for the job as specified in the shop manual.
[attachment=1:1z9h7uv6]cvt myth 01.jpg[/attachment:1z9h7uv6]
[attachment=0:1z9h7uv6]cvt myth 02.jpg[/attachment:1z9h7uv6]
[youtube:1z9h7uv6]2tGr0zVKdNE[/youtube:1z9h7uv6]
Attachments
The German guy kept one of the engine bolts attached and put a scissor jack between the rear tire and the trunk.
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Bear in mind that he's the owner of a tavern and was doing this in between cooking food and serving draught beer for his paying gusts.
People in that line of business are not known for hesitation or patience.
Bear in mind that he's the owner of a tavern and was doing this in between cooking food and serving draught beer for his paying gusts.
People in that line of business are not known for hesitation or patience.
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691 Posts
the german guys method makes tons of sense. i mean look at it! very crafty thinking in my opinion. didnt even have to disconnect the radiator, spark plugs, throttle body, none of that time consuming stuff. just leave the front motor mount in , remove the other two, remove exhaust,and use the jack on top of the tire like that. this changes the whole game if u ask me.
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