WOW ! ! ! You not mention what year your burgie, new replacement bolt # 21748-10G10 that fit 2002 to 2009 is harder, read on couple of site in Europe it recommend you re-torque to 26 lb/ft torque every 1600-1800 mile and when perform oil change, change every 8000 - 9000 mile or so if it have more than small nick on bolt. They very inexpensive from Partzilla and few other on line store.Followed the advice here on the forum and replaced my bolt even though my second hand Burgman only has 4000 miles on it. I was very surprised at the amount of wear that the bolt has on it.
Bolt on 2012 is 2 or 2.2 ml longer than previous and bolt seat in pulley rework as well by Suzuki, please advise how it look when you check it. 2-3 photo would be good.I changed out mine twice in 34,000 miles in my '04 and it looked much like yours. I haven't checked my '12 yet in 17000 miles but should next time I change oil. I had understood that the '12's didn't need changing as often. Should check it to find out I guess.
Pulled mine today while I had the scoot up on the lift and it looked much better then my '04 ever did. No sharp edges or nicks. There is one wear spot on it (top photo) so I'll change it out in the next 10,000 miles or so. Notice the slight discoloration. It cleaned up good. Sorry I ran out of daylight when I finished up.Bolt on 2012 is 2 or 2.2 ml longer than previous and bolt seat in pulley rework as well by Suzuki, please advise how it look when you check it. 2-3 photo would be good.
That's because the newer primary adjuster (2010-up unless it was replaced with the newer assembly like my '03) end does not have a groove for the shield the way the earlier models did. The old one is below. The newer one they moved the shield groove up so it doesn't intersect the notch for the stopper bolt and made it deeper by 2mm.Pulled mine today while I had the scoot up on the lift and it looked much better then my '04 ever did. No sharp edges or nicks. There is one wear spot on it.
Looks awesome just hope it's not too hard and wears the adjuster end rather than the bolt. Stock they wear a little of both as shown in the photo.I didn't feel like ordering them, so I went to the hardware store and bought some class 8.8 bolts of the appropriate size and turned them to stopper bolt configuration. I increased the tip diameter .004" and increased the length .010"
Cost a buck and some play time at the lathe each.
Actually no it can't, go measure the depth. the 2010 model they machined the notch up to the bearing race (you can see it in the updated assembly, I just don't have a photo handy) to get a 2mm longer stopper bolt in there.I'm looking at your photo of the primary adjuster and it appears that the tip of the stopper bolt could extend much farther into the notch without interfering with anything.
I can't understand why Suzuki chose to have so little contact area from the stopper bolt.
I also don't understand why they chose to have a primary spline adapter that only engaged about 10mm of the mating splined hole on the 2003-2004 models.
And while I'm at it, I don't understand why they didn't make both the adjuster drum *and* the stopper bolt out of a grade of steel that was tough enough to take the stress that's being imposed on them without distortion.
Seeing how tough the original was got me thinking about the class 8.8 unit that I turned and have been running for 700 miles, so I just went out to the garage and took it out for inspection.I'd be curious to compare the gold one to the silver one for hardness. Somehow I doubt there is much difference.
I came to that conclusion some time ago. As near as I can tell replacing a stopper bolt that is severely chewed up does not lengthen the time the CVT will go before it has a failure. The new bolt will likely just get chewed up in short order.Because of all of this, I'm of the opinion that a healthy CVT doesn't wear a stopper bolt too much. I'm not familiar enough with how everything ties together to have an opinion on "why",..but I believe that a severely chewed up stopper bolt is indicative of a problem in the CVT.
Nothing wrong with that and its good for us as a group to learn.The original stopper bolt that I replaced wasn't in very bad condition. I just wanted to install one of my own.
My bike is a 2003 model with 17,400 miles. 8000 miles ago I installed Milek's primary spline adapter.
Because of all of this, I'm of the opinion that a healthy CVT doesn't wear a stopper bolt too much. I'm not familiar enough with how everything ties together to have an opinion on "why",..but I believe that a severely chewed up stopper bolt is indicative of a problem in the CVT.