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Hi,i'm a long time lurker/member,could I ask are the CVT problems still relevant to '13 & later model years?.
Thanks.
 

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Hi folks,

Ive got a gentlemans 04 650 Burgmand that needs the CVT Belt replaced. Im mechanically inclined but have never worked on a Burgman before. I quoted him at 6-700 for the labor, and I think I lowballed myself. It is much more involved than I thought originally and dont want to be poorly compensated. So what would you say is a fair price for the labor, if it was priced at ~ 60$/hr?

I am not a professional or certified mechanic, but know my way around an engine, so I offer my services at a discounted rate...
 

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If you use the short cut method for pulling the CVT. And if all that is really needed is to replace the belt then your quote of $600-700 won't be far off. 10 to 12 hours labor would be involved. If it turns out more things are wrong inside the CVT then your quote will be low.
 

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That is assuming you have studied some of the threads on removing, disassembly, reassembly and replacing the CVT and have the special tools you will need on hand.
 

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That is assuming you have studied some of the threads on removing, disassembly, reassembly and replacing the CVT and have the special tools you will need on hand.
Hmmm, I figured I might need one or two special tools. I skimmed the service manual and saw one listed, if you've got the PNs that would be much appreciated... Short cut method to pulling the CVT???
 

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The service manual tells you that to pull the CVT you have to take the bike apart. I did my first one that way and it is a big job that takes all day.
Next time I used the short cut. That involves just pulling the bodywork from the seat forward, disconnecting just enough stuff to allow the frame to be raised up off the engine, removing the motor mounts and jacking the frame up until you have enough clearance to slide the CVT off. That takes about 3 1/2 hours.
There are threads about it on this forum as well as threads that will show you how to rig up the special tools you will need. I'm away from home and doing this from my phone or I would search for you and post the links. But you can do it search on the shortcut method and find most of what you need.
 

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PRIMARY PULLEY STOPPER BOLT

This bolt (see photo below) has been removed from K8, and a new bolt purchased with identical dimensions.
The new bolt does not seem to want to go back in. The bolt head no longer hard mates to CVT casing. There is a gap between bolt head and casing even if recommended torque applied !

What is the purpose of the reduced bolt diameter under the bolt head? Is it for O-ring, or shimings?
Is there a procedure for align'ing the Primary Pulley with this bolt 's location in casing so that bolt inserts fully?

Can it be done without engine removal?
 

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PRIMARY PULLEY STOPPER BOLT

This bolt (see photo below) has been removed from K8, and a new bolt purchased with identical dimensions.
The new bolt does not seem to want to go back in. The bolt head no longer hard mates to CVT casing. There is a gap between bolt head and casing even if recommended torque applied !

What is the purpose of the reduced bolt diameter under the bolt head? Is it for O-ring, or shimings?
Is there a procedure for align'ing the Primary Pulley with this bolt 's location in casing so that bolt inserts fully?

Can it be done without engine removal?

You need to check that new bolt side by side with the old one. I think you bought a 2011 and up bolt as they are longer and will not work in a K8 or older.

The 2002-2009 'Stopper Bolt' (#17 in parts picture) is part number 21748-10G10
The 2010 and newer 'Bolt, Screw Shaf' (#10 in parts picture) is 21748-10G20



The first Stopper Bolt was for 2002-2008 and it was 21748-10G00.

Then in 2009 they made a darker color and stronger 21748-10G10 that superseded the old part number and can be used on 2002-2009 650's.

Then in 2010 for the whole world but USA and then for all 2011 and up then made a different CVT and it uses a longer bolt 21748-10G20
 
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Hi Dave j... my post (newcoming very first post) relates to that sent by Madori ..i am the loving burg owner and madori is my loving father.
Cutting long stories short..i believe I do have the correct part number. And was aware of the change above 2009.
Please.. bare with me as i may have trouble explaining my predicament .
As of now the only way I can explain would be by hypothetically installing the primary pulley "it's self"... and not getting the slots lined up with the actual bolt hole on the cvt cover...thus not allowing pulley stopper bolt to sit home.
As you can see ..my explanation so far is not great...so at this point I'd like to take a breather...and try to find my words..
Thanks Dave j... "bare with" as they say!
 

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OK, it seems that the engine or the back wheel was turned while the bolt was removed.

You may be able to take a small Phillips screw driver and while holding the shaft up in the hole slowly turn the engine over by hand. This may take two people and time. Go slow.

You will need to remove the 2008's Primary Adapter cover from the left side of the bike. It is held on with two 10mm bolts. Then using a wrench on the bolt you can turn the CVT while someone holds that Phillips screw driver up in the hole. It should turn the Primary Pulley. You may need to turn that Primary Adapters bolt both ways to find the slot that the stopper bolt fits into. You may need to kind of make small jerk motions on the Primary Adapter bolt to get the Primary Pulley's housing to spin.

No worries on finding the words. I do not know where you are located but we work with members all over the world and Google Translate is my go to for most translations.
 
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You can also rotate the engine and CVT from the right side. On the engine in front of the CVT you will find a plastic cover about 2" in diameter with an allenhead fitting in it. Use an allenhead wrench to unscrew it. Behind it you will find a bolt that is screwed into the end of the crankshaft. You can use a socket wrench on it to turn the engine over.
 

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Hi... Dave j and buffalo,
Thanks for the advice to realigning my stopper bolt hole I have not got round to trying this yet as the weather is holding me back at moment but should be able to give it a go tomorrow 5th June.
I am optimistic and have planned the routine and i do have another curious question .....will having the bike in Drive
Or manual Or power mode make any relevant difference ?? while I am turning and jolting the pulley shaft with my wrench ??
This light in the proverbial tunnel is most appreciated. So here's looking forward to tomorrow and maybe any more advice or tips/options that you chaps may have.
Cheers guy's from Matt.
 

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Hi guys it's been a while and just wanted to keep up appearances and may I just say ...pats on backs all round chaps!
Aka.."the burgologists" !!!
Dave j...i went through the process of turning the primary pulley shaft on left side of bike and I did see with the aid of a mirror a very slight movement through the stopper bolt hole. I was about to try buffalo's idea of cranking engine from right hand side...but I found myself side tracked with a "flashback"...So......by removing the primary pulley sensor I was able to see the pulley gear itself and also a finger hold (sticky blue nitro gloves) on the actual primary pulley cover..and then using the trusty mirror and a long flat screwdriver to rotate the gear whilst finger holding the pulley cover...cheching mirror through stopper bolt hole.......
Until..finally low and behold the cover popped into the slot and the recess for stopper bolt rolled passed in the mirror!!
Quick wiggle in reverse and stopper bolt is finally home....outstanding!! "I hope"
Controversy...and my biggest worry ....
Have I got the pulley cover the right way round with respect to "A" and "C" shown in drawing......with no way of knowing for sure...i can only hope.
So the bike started up fine and sounded really sweet for 5 mins or so and just as all those gritted stress lines were slowly smoothing out on my forehead...in comes a dreaded nasty "click"....very sporadic but nevertheless CVT now clicking.
Long story short..bit the bullet and went out for a spin....performance is great if I was wearing industrial ear plugs! Click .
I have tried again since and rotated the pulley cover 180degrees...and fair to say the clicking seems much less but still there at the end of play..i may have to live with this or maybe I missed a other trick or two??
You guys are great...if I had not got on your forum..i would still be at "square 1"
Thanks from Matt.
(Next task..corrosion issues)
 

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Thanks again to Dave j ..buffalo..and Madori.
I forgot to say this cvt clicking is only really noticeable when the bike is idling so I guess my question to you guys is...am I doing more harm than good?
Could the cvt be on its way out ?
Should I still be riding this beloved burgman??
Bed for me now.
 

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hello, I`m a newbie here and I`ve faced a "code51" almost immediately after I`ve bought my 2005 Burg.
Let me tell the while story. I`ve purchased it at the service, knowing it had a CVT repaired now (plastic gears are new, belt and everything other is checked and it is OK), but my first ride on the highway ended with a FI light on just after the first stop. CVT didn`t shift up and blinked with "D" or "1" (if in manual mode) while trying to shift up. Switch ignition off and on and the error is gone for some time.

Then we`ve checked PPS and it appeared to be faulty and had up to 4 Ohms instead of about 2 Ohms needed. We`ve changed it and the next 100-150 miles I had a nice ride without any errors, but....

One day it showed me a FI again and this time it is ON few seconds after each engine start. Seemed like CVT motor doesn`t work - there was no sound of it after start or while switching between "M" and "D" modes. If I`m in manual mode it shows "1", I cluck "UP", it shows "2", nothing happens, then "2" starts to blink. Serviceman checked CVT motor - it is OK, and a spare one doesn`t work either - the is no voltage coming to it at all. Today we`'ll try to check connections and wires leading to and from CVT controller, but service manual states to change controller if the problem is still there and we only have a <2005 CVT controller, without an OD option, is it compatible with mine?

any new ideas about it?
 

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Upd: technically CVT is ok, gears, belt are checked, there are no visual signs of any failure
 
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