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2005 Burgman 650 Executive
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Is there a special procedure to install the CVT motor after removal and CVT rebuild?
I am wondering if the slack should be taken out of the plastic gears by rotating them one way or the other until they stop, or maybe locate them (the plastic gears) in the middle of the play (slack) and then install the CVT motor. I was thinking a sudden startup of the CVT motor might strip some of the plastic gears on initial startup until all the sensors tell
the ECU where everything is located.
 

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yep there is, I remenber it from replacing my belt, I just don't remember what the heck it was :rolleyes:
 

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The primary pulley is always trying to open up from the belt trying to get down to the bottom. I’d imagine if you take out the backlash with this direction pre-loaded you’d be good to go. You should see one face of the teeth more worn from this
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hmm...can't see any wear on the plastic teeth. The CVT is out of the bike, and in my shop. Are you suggesting I turn the teeth counterclockwise or clockwise till they stop and
then install the CVT Motor? Sorry for my ignorance on this, but I have no experience with a CVT.
 

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I’ve never rebuilt one of these 650 CVT’s so my suggestions are only logical suggestions, and someone may say I’m wrong. To me, If you set the primary pulley as “open “ (largest area for belt to fit in), and you then turn the CVT dc motor until it removes backlash from all the gears, and you feel it resistance up to where it would start to try to “upshift” the pulley, without actually moving it further…..to me you are at the absolute minimum pulley position and you moved the motor, just enough to pre-tensioned the gears to the only possible direction, which is an up shift. I can’t imagine how you would encounter backlash damage in this condition.
 

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I have not installed one so I am not sure.

Members MJR or Buffaloe have done a few so they would know.

Don, did you rebuild one that quick?

How was the insides of the CVT I sent you? It was fine when I pulled it.
 

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As far as I know, if you installed the primary pulley correctly and ensured the adjuster was not binding before you closed the case up, there is no special procedure needed for installing the motor. I never did anything special.
 

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As far as I know, if you installed the primary pulley correctly and ensured the adjuster was not binding before you closed the case up, there is no special procedure needed for installing the motor. I never did anything special.
My thoughts are the PPS will center the Pulley when you start it no matter where the plastic gears are. Sort of like when you switch from Auto mode to Power mode, you hear the CVT motor zipping the pulley into the correct place.

Just for information, He has a 2005 and I sold him a 2003 CVT. The one I sold had 54,000 miles but he was going to put a new belt and bearings inside.
 

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2005 Burgman 650 Executive
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Dave: I've thought about it a lot and have decided to install the CVT I bought from you as received. I think there are likely some advantages and some disadvantages to a complete rebuild ($$$ comes to mind) or an as received install. (all that work to remove it again if it fails). With 88,000 km on it, I know it's a gamble. As Clint Eastwood said "Are ya feeling lucky punk? Well are ya?" I'm feelin lucky. As you and others have said, some CVT's last 30,000 Km and others last 170,000 km or more. If the one you sent me lasted 88K so far it must not have been abused too badly. I have ordered the Polish adapter from Merik. (A nice fellow, by the way) and a few other small parts for reassembly. What's the worst that can happen? It blows up on me. At least with the adapter installed I have a pretty good chance that it will only be the belt that needs to be replaced, unless the keys on the primary decide to let go. This is a learning exercise for me, over the winter. I have my NC750X as a daily driver, so it's not like I have to depend on the Burgman. I'm really enjoying working on the bike and learning a lot. It sure is one complicated scooter. We will see how things turn out. I will post some updates on this site as the project progresses.
 

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Only as Buffalo said when you put the primary back in on the correct side of the stop you adjust by hand the gears so the pulley is against the belt. After closing to case you don't need to do anything else except put the motor back in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
This CVT has not been apart. I am unable to tell the internal pully positions from the outside of the CVT case. However, I can turn the plastic gears by hand full left towards the secondary pully
or full right towards the primary pully to remove any and all plastic gear slop. So would full left be first gear or high gear? Hard to say, unless I had the unit apart.
I would think when the ignition is turned on and power is sent to the CVT, the CVT motor would place the Pullys in low gear, after all the scoot does not start off in higher gears.
If I make a mistake and have the pullys in the wrong position on the first startup, I'm afraid the CVT motor will spin fast to get the pullys to the low gear position and possibly strip the plastic gears.:(
Am I out in left field on this one ? Many members have had their CVT's apart and they know the pully positions on reassembly.There is nothing in the service manual about this procedure, so it's kind of scary to just insert the CVT motor without some guidance. I could always just position the gears halfway so the plastic gear play is evenly distributed between left and right and hope for the best. I have watched LEDUDE00's videos on the CVT, but they are no help, as he turns the pullys, and the plastic gears are not visible.
Thanks everyone for trying to help me figure this out. Please chime in if you can help. If you guy's can't help me no one can :)
 

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The pulley position sensor will tell the ECM the position of the pulley and adjust it accordingly. You do not have to worry about the plastic gears being stripped.
 

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The early (pre-2016) Primary pulleys only had two keyways to keep the two halves of the pulley together. If the keys are worn, the halves scrub the belt each time you accelerate and decelerate, which is not good. I don't think you can check for play, or check the bearings in the CVT and Primary pulley without taking the CVT apart. I can assure you that you don't want bad bearings or worn keys in the PPA. I posted in another area about a machine shop in Lebanon, OH that helped rebuild a PPA. New cost is somewhere above $600. Personally, I wouldn't pass up the opportunity to make sure the CVT is in good shape once it is sitting on the bench. It is a lot of work to take it out of the bike and apart a second time. You should replace seals if you take it apart to replace bearings. Those things are available from bearing supply houses.

One last thing, I recommend you wrap the exhaust pipe under the CVT with fiberglass exhaust wrap to help reduce heat going to the CVT case.
 
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