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You have to use shorter M6 bolts. The L brackets fit tight against the engine case. The cover bolts are too long.
Abner did you purchase the L brackets or make them?
 

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Abner did you purchase the L brackets or make them?
Abner did you purchase the L brackets or make them?
These are used to hold library stacks together. If I had to make them, I would probably buy a small piece of angle aluminum, and proceed from there. I can post a close up photo of an empty bracket later.
 

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well like ZRX, I too feel that marking the bolt before then using an impact wrench is the way. I used a file and marked small notches to line everything up. on the front and back.

I had the idea Abnor had 2 years back but mine was more complex so bravo on the simple and smart idea.

not sure why they didnt add 2 holes into the finned plate to allow a holder.
 

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Great idea, Some opinions/observations, looks like one could buy a long section of threaded rod 5/16 and some nuts to make this tool, brackets, etc., at your local hardware store, some assembly required, I think the vinyl tubing sleeve on the long threads is a must have, to reduce damage or high stress points, a damper of shorts, is also important that locking bolt are placed as close as possible to base of cooling fins, to prevent snaping them off. Also need fabricate brackets and /or drill holes, etc., to insure all three are locking and/or making contact evenly, to prevent uneven loads.

PSA, keep in mind that whatever DIY method you try to hold this pulley face, it comes with its calculated risk, it calculates $80-90 USD for a new one :whistle:
 

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The only thing I would add to marking the nut (which I've done) is that the first time you're just assuming it's properly torqued to begin with, which may or may not be the case.
 

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One thing to add, when im on the bike with it off and im moving backwards, I can hear some scraping type sound it seems coming out of the CVT
I was involved in this thread with a scraping type noise, thought you should see if yours is similar. In short, use the center stand, engine off. Roll the rear wheel by hand, forward and backward. Scraping sound? If so definitely read up on this thread (especially near the end).

 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
I was involved in this thread with a scraping type noise, thought you should see if yours is similar. In short, use the center stand, engine off. Roll the rear wheel by hand, forward and backward. Scraping sound? If so definitely read up on this thread (especially near the end).

Wow, good call, that seems to be the sound and from what im seeing my guess is that it is the needle bearing,,,,I hear its an easy fix, where is the bearing located exactly? DO I just need to grease it or full relacement? Id like to inspect it first,,,thanks man!
 

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Wow, good call, that seems to be the sound and from what im seeing my guess is that it is the needle bearing,,,,I hear its an easy fix, where is the bearing located exactly? DO I just need to grease it or full relacement? Id like to inspect it first,,,thanks man!
It’s a lot of work to get in there, and I would certainly replace it. I was concerned about safety, imagining that thing seizing while I’m on the highway. I wanted to know it was good. I did not have to open the clutch assembly. I was looking for what made the sound. My finger inside rotating it acting as the shaft did not like the slight roughness.

Extracting and replacing the bearing from the assembly did not seem like something I was equipped to do so I got a mechanic to do it. Report back on your results please.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
It’s a lot of work to get in there, and I would certainly replace it. I was concerned about safety, imagining that thing seizing while I’m on the highway. I wanted to know it was good. I did not have to open the clutch assembly. I was looking for what made the sound. My finger inside rotating it acting as the shaft did not like the slight roughness.

Extracting and replacing the bearing from the assembly did not seem like something I was equipped to do so I got a mechanic to do it. Report back on your results please.
I will, can you post a pic of exactly where this needle bearing is?
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Hey thanks, so Im seeing this right, if I get the clutch off this bearing just sits on the back side of it? I dont have to disasemble the clutch but just remove it to get to it,,,,,is this something that can be repacked and greased, or just replace it?
 

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Hey thanks, so Im seeing this right, if I get the clutch off this bearing just sits on the back side of it? I dont have to disasemble the clutch but just remove it to get to it,,,,,is this something that can be repacked and greased, or just replace it?
A "correct" rear rear pulley service, requires full disassembly (like in the diagram in post #30 above) + cleaning, inspection and correctly regreasing, not saying you need to replace/remove all the seals, bearings, etc.. but at least replacing 15yr old grease would help. Also having pulleys apart, allows you to sand/scuff pulley faces to remove shine, grooving and ridges, helps you New belt break in better.

The "Vespa Motorsports/Robot video" I linked on previous threads/post, tells you all about it, did you look at it, it?, specifically explains at the 12:30 minutes about rear inner pulley bearings, etc.
Just got a 2008 Burgman 400, some questions

"IF" any of the bearings feel rough/bad (1+3 in diagram), I would replace both. there's info on how to change them here, Variator Inspection & your feedback

You can also use a hammer and drift to knock out old bearings(not to install :rolleyes:), 1st, "displace/move" the internal ball bearing snap ring out of groove (could be a challenge :unsure:), push ball bearing, against needle bearing then drive it out. BTW the needle bearing is a Suzuki proprietary size an $$$, the ball bearing is a common 6904-2RS, use it instead of oem and leave the bearing seals in place, it will last a lot longer than OEM part.

A lot of this info is kinda repeat of links already posted :whistle:
This is what a typical full CVT service breakdown looks like ...


Automotive tire Rim Alloy wheel Engineering Gas
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 · (Edited by Moderator)
A "correct" rear rear pulley service, requires full disassembly (like in the diagram in post #30 above) + cleaning, inspection and correctly regreasing, not saying you need to replace/remove all the seals, bearings, etc.. but at least replacing 15yr old grease would help. Also having pulleys apart, allows you to sand/scuff pulley faces to remove shine, grooving and ridges, helps you New belt break in better.

The "Vespa Motorsports/Robot video" I linked on previous threads/post, tells you all about it, did you look at it, it?, specifically explains at the 12:30 minutes about rear inner pulley bearings, etc.
Just got a 2008 Burgman 400, some questions

"IF" any of the bearings feel rough/bad (1+3 in diagram), I would replace both. there's info on how to change them here, Variator Inspection & your feedback

You can also use a hammer and drift to knock out old bearings(not to install :rolleyes:), 1st, "displace/move" the internal ball bearing snap ring out of groove (could be a challenge :unsure:), push ball bearing, against needle bearing then drive it out. BTW the needle bearing is a Suzuki proprietary size an $$$, the ball bearing is a common 6904-2RS, use it instead of oem and leave the bearing seals in place, it will last a lot longer than OEM part.

A lot of this info is kinda repeat of links already posted :whistle:
This is what a typical full CVT service breakdown looks like ...


View attachment 103322
As much as a PITA it is, zrx is correct, if you are going to do it properly the entire CVT need to be disasembled and inspected then delt with, its the only real way youll ever get a true visual on what the tranny is doing AND ensure longevity and proper performance, I believe many of the maladies that riders have is that they dont fully inspect the bike and its not easy to be a real good tech, you have the take the time and have the desire to do it, many people neglect their bikes
 

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Excuse me please if it's already been covered, so many questions and answers (some more than once)...

Another consideration, to grease or replace? is WHAT grease to use, and why.

@zrx212 got the topic covered, here -
 
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