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Hi all
I have a 2008 Burgman 400 with 11k miles on it, I am at the point now where I will be getting into the tranny to check variator, clutch and belt, Im keeping it simple for starters
The symptoms im seeing now are at low speed, 30mph ish there is some shuddering and shaking and I feel like maybe take off should be quicker but I could be wrong, I dont have any other 400 to compare it to only a Helix and Vtwin bikes,,,,but It really does move smooth and fast and IM am not detecting anything major,,, I have gotten it to 85mph with more to spare with ease and no vibration or shaking,,,the city grip 2 tires are fantastic and would reccomend to anyone,,,,,I have not got into the tranny yet so I have no idea whats in there or if anyone before me made any upgrades,,,, heres my plan

1. Pull off variator and clean inside, inspect rollers for any damage and weigh them
2. Pull clutch off and inspect shoes, clean well, if any glazing sand bell and shoes with 100grt
3. Is there a service limit for the belt I could not find one in manual, my initial inspection of it showed no cracks and measured 25MM or so, I saw mitchs video and he had a belt that was 25mmish and the new one was 26ishMM

One thing to add, when im on the bike with it off and im moving backwards, I can hear some scraping type sound it seems coming out of the CVT, my Helix is quiet, Im wondering if the rollers are offset? it seems like it may be coming from the clutch but not sure

I will clean and make sure everything looks good as per this post, then put it back together and run it, then I will make a decision to see if the maitenance solves my issues, if not I will move forward with upgrades,,,,,she is smooth and fast and I hopin it all looks good

Any other things I may have missed please add to my list of things to do, I like to work on specific parts of the bike, now that I have the tires and bearings and axls inspected to my likiing Im moving on to the tranny,,,

TY for all the help
 

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It's really best to take the bike OUTSIDE and pay the neighbor's kid that you don't like very much , to use compressed air and blow the excess dust out of the clutch and variator before you start any disassembly. (you might want to record it for enjoyment later)
 
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It's really best to take the bike OUTSIDE and pay the neighbor's kid that you don't like very much , to use compressed air and blow the excess dust out of the clutch and variator before you start any disassembly. (you might want to record it for enjoyment later)
Or you can DIY with a paint brush and sweep the dust out that way. On the deeper more stubborn spots you could initially use a dish washing brush and then a paint brush.

I do agree with the OUTSIDE part. My basement floor is a mess. The wife is unhappy about the black tracks on the main hallway carpet. :eek:
 

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Hi all
I have a 2008 Burgman 400 with 11k miles on it, I am at the point now where I will be getting into the tranny to check variator, clutch and belt, Im keeping it simple for starters
The symptoms im seeing now are at low speed, 30mph ish there is some shuddering and shaking and I feel like maybe take off should be quicker but I could be wrong, I dont have any other 400 to compare it to only a Helix and Vtwin bikes,,,,but It really does move smooth and fast and IM am not detecting anything major,,, I have gotten it to 85mph with more to spare with ease and no vibration or shaking,,,the city grip 2 tires are fantastic and would reccomend to anyone,,,,,I have not got into the tranny yet so I have no idea whats in there or if anyone before me made any upgrades,,,, heres my plan

1. Pull off variator and clean inside, inspect rollers for any damage and weigh them
2. Pull clutch off and inspect shoes, clean well, if any glazing sand bell and shoes with 100grt
3. Is there a service limit for the belt I could not find one in manual, my initial inspection of it showed no cracks and measured 25MM or so, I saw mitchs video and he had a belt that was 25mmish and the new one was 26ishMM

One thing to add, when im on the bike with it off and im moving backwards, I can hear some scraping type sound it seems coming out of the CVT, my Helix is quiet, Im wondering if the rollers are offset? it seems like it may be coming from the clutch but not sure

I will clean and make sure everything looks good as per this post, then put it back together and run it, then I will make a decision to see if the maitenance solves my issues, if not I will move forward with upgrades,,,,,she is smooth and fast and I hopin it all looks good

Any other things I may have missed please add to my list of things to do, I like to work on specific parts of the bike, now that I have the tires and bearings and axls inspected to my likiing Im moving on to the tranny,,,

TY for all the help
Try moving the scooter backwards after you remove the cover and before you loosen anything under it. You may have better luck finding the cause. With the scooter on the center stand try moving the back wheel backwards by hand. That will get you closer and perhaps help finding what's scraping. Check the inside of the cover for signs of contact from the mechanism.
 

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One thing to add, when im on the bike with it off and im moving backwards, I can hear some scraping type sound it seems coming out of the CVT, my Helix is quiet, Im wondering if the rollers are offset? it seems like it may be coming from the clutch but not sure
more than likely the brake pads rubbing the rotor. needle bearing in the clutch maybe? if the bell and clutch shoes are rubbing with the engine shut off, then there's debris in there or a clutch shoe spring is broken.

the rollers in the variator only move when the engine is running.
 

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Trying to remove the transmission cover for the first time can be very frustrating. There is a bearing that sits in the cover at the end of the clutch. There are two threaded holes next to the center there to install two bolts to help remove the cover.

"Insert two 8/1.25x50mm Bolts into those holes. Either screw them in until the cover pops off or take some vice grips and clamp down on them and pull toward you."

Removing screws to release bearing from clutch cover | Suzuki Burgman USA Forum
 
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I've been gnawing this over in my mind for a while... a tool that is light and portable... granted that any tyre shop or mechanic with a gun can loosen the bolt within seconds, my emergency plan is to use plain old bailing wire, and spider web it around the variator to immobilize it.
 

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HI, yes no issues I got the cover off easy, do you guys have a fav tool or technique to secure the variator when taking off or torquing back on so it doesnt move? I have seen mitchs tool and I like that, In fact I have this one that should work for the clutch, will it work for the variator as well? https://www.amazon.com/AutoRocking-Flywheel-Variator-Spanner-Motorcycle/dp/B07FY9HJGT
That should work. I've bought some and made some. Since all the force is on two fins I wouldn't yang on it too abruptly, use slow gentle force when loosening and making the final torque. For the shorter handled ones I would suggest lengthening the handle with a piece of pipe so you can brace it against the floor.
 

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Before you loosen variator but, clean nut and shaft with alcohol, etc., then use permanent paint or sharpie marker to make a reference marks on both, then you can use an impact driver, to loosen and re-tighten nut to your marks, lot's of people do this, whitout issues. Personally don't care much for the Suzuki variator holder tool design/idea 👎, very poor engineering IMO.

On the rear clutch nut, apply the parking brake and/or rear brake lever(or both) to lock the transmission shaft when loosening or tightening.

Several good links were posted on your previous thread on how to service CVT, etc. 🤔

 

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Nice one Ab, how is the L bracket secured? I cant tell from the pic
Not AB but here goes
The three L brackets are bolted to three CASE COVER bolt threads.

The long bolts that go into the fins kind of wedge them self's so they do not rotate
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I hold the variator on my 2008 400 with three L brackets and some leftover bolts. I've used this on 4 different 400's, and a couple of Vespa GTS 300s. I hate paying for a tool that only gets used every other year.
View attachment 103273
This the best one I've seen :cool: - excellent, and thanks for sharing.
 

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Not AB but here goes
The three L brackets are bolted to three CASE COVER bolt threads.

The long bolts that go into the fins kind of wedge them self's so they do not rotate
View attachment 103274
You have to use shorter M6 bolts. The L brackets fit tight against the engine case. The cover bolts are too long.
 

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You have to use shorter M6 bolts. The L brackets fit tight against the engine case. The cover bolts are too long.
This should help: The short end of the L has an oblonged hole for adjustment. The 8mm bolts are in there tight. I took the head to the bench grinder on all 3 to provide a bit more clearance.
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