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Discussion Starter #1
Decided to get familiar with the New (used) 2011 Burgman 400 CVT innards (take case cover off and look it over, clean dust out as some recommend, check the belt).

No problem up to the point I started to take the wire harness off the CVT Cover. Unplugged it OK. Could not figure how to release the plastic clamps that hold the harness route along the metal cover. The plastic clamps are anchored into a hole in the metal cover.

I ended up breaking one to get it out (kept pulling on it and thought it was coming out of the hole. I first tried to separate the ends and leave the bottom end in the hole.

I do not want to break the other two, I would like to reuse them and route the wire harness as it is now. I already have one broken one to deal with. :-(

Even with it out (broken), I cannot see how to release the other two clamps. It appears that one end of the plastic strap is a flange that went into the hole and spreads when you put the other end which I think is attached to a pin that is inserted in the flanged end. (I broke that end off trying to get it loose and there is a pin by itself now).

It appears to be like the other plastic rivets (a flange and a pin in center - those release by pushing the center in, or pulling center out, or turning center with screwdriver about a 1/4 turn and then pulling the pin out, AND then the whole rivet comes out.

I do not see how to release these wire harness clamps. Must be a secret that I do not know and cannot see??????

The Videos I watched just show the clamps loose and no wire harness when he is removing the CVT - Then when he reinstalls it shows the wire harness and clamps (clamps opened up). However, he did not put the harness in the clamps, he just laid the harness along the metal cover and then puts the outer plastic cover on without clamping the wire harness.
 

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You need to disconnect the cables and remove the ABS bracket to get to the inside of cover. Then you should be able to push pins through with some tap of the same diameter.
 

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Paul, as Bolzen says. Just push the centre of the plastic clips from the inside of the case with a dot punch and they pop out. They can be very stiff. However, I just cut my plastic loops carefully and drilled a small hole through the loop of plastic at each end so I can use a heat resistant cable zip tie. This is much quicker and easier and means I just cut the plastic zip tie to realease the cable each time I go in. You just need a supply of heat resistance zip ties. The ones used in computers to hold cables together are ok and it's the very small fine ones you want.

Incidentally, I haven't yet found a Suzuki dealer with a listing for the original new black plastic cable holders. Just not shown on the computer. Whatever you use, make sure you don't leave a hole in the cvt case otherwise water and grit will get in.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the comebacks on this. Glad to hear I am not completely ignorant (meaning - no wonder I could not figure how to release the ties). One would think the top part would just unplug someway to open up the tie and let the wire harness free.

Crazy design if you ask me (they did not ask me). :)

I am not sure (until I go look again), how you would get to the back of the case cover to push a pin out. Maybe that would be more clear witth the ABS bracket removed to allow room to move the cover out far enough to ge behind it as Bolzen suggested.

As of now, I like the idea of cutting the ties and jury rigging something (Perhaps as Quantum suggested). Never heard of Heat Resistant Ties. Does it get that hot in there?

I will fill in the hole I have as a result of pulling the one tie out of the hole. I figured I would have to do something there if the hole went all the way thru the case (apparently it does).

Note the Video shows the guy just leaving the cable lay in there when he adds the outer Plastic Case).
 

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Yes, Paul you just need to get the CVT case cover off before removing the cable holding plugs. That's the only time they have to come off anyway. So you have to take the inner case (metal case) set screws out and pull the cover off. It's easy to see the back of the plastic clips and easy to push them with a dot punch or some such tool. It's not a problem.
 

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I've changed belts, installed slider weights, etc and just lean the thing against the bike without taking the wires off.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well I maybe jumped the gun on the harness ties.

I went ahead and cut the ties as suggested in the one response.

Then removed the 10 bolts and number them as suggested in the Video.

Next Problem is -- the darn cover (talking the inner metal one) will not pull off. Could barely jigggle it - pulling hard enough gripping the two exhaust ports att eh bottom and anywhere else I could get a hold on it to move the scooter around (at least making it shake).

I then got a thin pairing knife and inserted it between the cover and case in various places. Maybe got 1/32 inch all around. I THINK the Guide pin at top right is holding it.

Friend coming over to look at it (he used to be a MC Mechanic and recently bought a front end wrecked 400 (2005) model and put a new front end on it and sold it. He also changed the CVT Belt and changed weights. He thinks there is still a bolt someplace (I am 100% sure not - well 99.999% - leave room for a little error). HA!

Anyway, back on here to see if anyone else has had this problem??? And, to look at the video again. I wrote oput proceduere wehnI watched the video, so pretty sure I am OK there.
 

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part number for the wire harness at the rear

Paul, as Bolzen says. Just push the centre of the plastic clips from the inside of the case with a dot punch and they pop out. They can be very stiff. However, I just cut my plastic loops carefully and drilled a small hole through the loop of plastic at each end so I can use a heat resistant cable zip tie. This is much quicker and easier and means I just cut the plastic zip tie to realease the cable each time I go in. You just need a supply of heat resistance zip ties. The ones used in computers to hold cables together are ok and it's the very small fine ones you want.

Incidentally, I haven't yet found a Suzuki dealer with a listing for the original new black plastic cable holders. Just not shown on the computer. Whatever you use, make sure you don't leave a hole in the cvt case otherwise water and grit will get in.
I found the part number in the electrical section of the Oenida parts fiche. 36651-48E00 times 3 of them. $4.77. I broke one of them too trying to push that **** pin through. Ugh!!
 

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I just lay the wire back in there making sure it doesn't get squished. There's nothing to rub it so why worry. That's how Mitch did it, so it's good enough for me.
 

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Good find seamorob! Not one of the dealers or me, thought to look in the electrical section. As itlives says, they are not a really needed bit of kit but some like to keep their bikes totally original.
 

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I took mine apart for cleaning last weekend, and after unplugging the rear wheel speed sensor I decided to leave the cable attached to the CVT cover.. Worst case scenario I would tie the CVT cover up with a some form of rope if I needed to do more service... I too was very concerned about those clips I decided I didn't want to break any.

I think the belt could be changed with the cable left on the cover?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I had sort of forgotten about the post on the problem about the ties for the cable with all the other porblems I ran into getting the darn cover to pull off the CVT.

Cutting the ties works just fine as far as I am concerned and then you can get the cover out of the way for anything you need to do (inspect, change belt, change clutch). I would ahte to take a chance of something happening to the wire harness while having the cover tied off and workign around it. Besides, I had broken one clip trying to get it out.

SO, I CUT the others and left enough to punch (used like a leather punch) a hole in them and use some spot tie string (had some left over from work days that we used to tie bundles of wires together). Layed the wire harness back in the ties and tied them with the string.

The hole in the case that resulted by my breaking a tie, I plugged the hole with a small plastic wall type hanger (pushed it thru the hole and it spreads in the back - sealed with plumbers goop). If, I had not broken that one, there would no hole to worry with.

I think I posted pictures of that when I reassembled the CVT (installed the case cover). Re Post Picture.

Also, since the gasket got messed up by our prying and struggle to get the cover off the bearing and shaft -- I used Painter's Tape for a gasket. Picture. You can see the red wall hanger sticking thru the case (lower right of the picture).
 

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