Suzuki Burgman USA Forum banner

1 - 20 of 73 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Recently my 05 Burgman 650 started having issues that feel like the clutch is slipping. It started happening when I would decelerate to around 25mph and then try to accelerate to higher speeds. At that point it would rev to higher rpms but not provide any more "pull" from the drivetrain.

Since it started happening I pulled the clutch and replaced the fiber plates and the metal plates, though they didn't look worn or glazed compared to the new ones that I installed.

Now the problem has started happening at higher speeds when I slow down a bit on the freeway and then try to accelerate it keeps the same constant speed but the engine revs higher.

I've found that if I start in manual mode and keep it in that mode everything seems to work fine.

Does anyone have any ideas as to what could be causing this?

Could it be the primary pulley sensor? I've checked the primary pulley stopper bolt and it looks fine.

Any help would be appreciated.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,589 Posts
If you have rebuilt your clutch and are still having the slippage issues, especially at higher speeds, there are two possibilities that come to mind:

- worn out PPS, easy enough to take out and check.

- Worn belt or other CVT component which requires dropping the engine and cranking open the CVT assembly to inspect all the different components, hopefully it is just a worn belt.

good luck....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
^^^
What's the best way to check the sensor? I'd rather not pull the CVT if not completely necessary.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,975 Posts
Try starting out in Manual 1st, does it slip? Get up to speed and shift into Manual 2nd, does it slip?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Try starting out in Manual 1st, does it slip? Get up to speed and shift into Manual 2nd, does it slip?
When I start in Manual it DOES NOT slip the entire time I'm in manual.

If I'm in manual and then switch to auto it will slip, and once it has slipped I can't shift back into manual, presumably because the rpms do not match where they should be to match the gear in manual
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
14,278 Posts
If it does not feel like it is slipping in manual mode then I doubt it is the belt.

The PPS is easy to take out. Just two bolts hold it in and it slides straight out. Take it out and check it to see that the plunger moves in and out smoothly and with no binding. If it does then you may want to test it with a multi meter to see that the resistance and output voltage vary smoothly as you move the plunger in and out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
If it does not feel like it is slipping in manual mode then I doubt it is the belt.

The PPS is easy to take out. Just two bolts hold it in and it slides straight out. Take it out and check it to see that the plunger moves in and out smoothly and with no binding. If it does then you may want to test it with a multi meter to see that the resistance and output voltage vary smoothly as you move the plunger in and out.
Thanks. I'll try to get to it in the next few days. I can't tear it down today unfortunately. I'll post the results when I get PPS out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
144 Posts
A local 650 rider had the same symptoms with his clutch slipping. In the conversation with the mechanic who asked him when it started. After a friend serviced it for him was his answer They decided to drain the oil and filter. Put in new oil. I rode the scooter for 15 to 20 miles. The clutch was almost normal when I got back to the shop A new oil filter and oil change corrected the problem. Was determined the oil used was not to be used with a wet clutch.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
That was the first thing I tried. I've changed the clutch oil twice now and both times I used oil that was designed for wet clutches.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
144 Posts
The engine oil circulates thru the clutches.



The engine oil lubricates the clutch. Are you changing the transmission oil? Transmission takes 12.2 oz and is in a separate cavity from the engine and rear end. What kind of engine oil used at last change?


the
transmuission
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
20,100 Posts
Mesmer1, As said above, OIL makes a big difference. I would do a Double flush, drain and fill, drive for 20 miles, drain and refill with new filters each time. Do not use any automotive 10W40 for this test, spend a few extra $ and get true 10W40 Motorcycle oil. I can get it for $5.99 a quart at Autozone and its less than 4 quarts for a flush. Spending $75 for a double flush is cheaper than a teardown. Use the flush oil in your car or lawnmower so its not a total waste.

And just so you know, David Wilett had a Burgman 650 with well over 100,000 miles before any major problems and after repairs when he sold the bike it now has many more. He knows Burgmans!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
The clutch oil I changed was the cavity directly behind the clutch bell cover that requires a tube to refill. I used synthetic wet clutch oil with the proper ratings which was hard to find. I religiously change my engine oil and final drive oil as well. I follow le dudes YouTube videos for my oil changes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Mesmer1, As said above, OIL makes a big difference. I would do a Double flush, drain and fill, drive for 20 miles, drain and refill with new filters each time. Do not use any automotive 10W40 for this test, spend a few extra $ and get true 10W40 Motorcycle oil. I can get it for $5.99 a quart at Autozone and its less than 4 quarts for a flush. Spending $75 for a double flush is cheaper than a teardown. Use the flush oil in your car or lawnmower so its not a total waste.

And just so you know, David Wilett had a Burgman 650 with well over 100,000 miles before any major problems and after repairs when he sold the bike it now has many more. He knows Burgmans!
I'll do a double flush of everything when I get home. I had been using standard oil for the engine oil changes for the entire life of the bike. What oils and ratings do you use for each cavity?

I come from the world of modern Vespa dry clutches so this is new to me.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
20,100 Posts
On these 650's the engines oil is used in the clutch. The oil you put in the back with a tube is the reduction transmission and is just 4 gears that transfers the power from the clutch to the final drive.

I do use a 5W40 synthetic Rotella 6T most times for my engine and transmission or 15W40 Delo 400 or Rotella T5. Some riders have used car 10W40s with no problems but almost everyone that used 5W30 has had major clutch problems

Suziki using the same oil from the engine in the clutch is a throw back to early days and in this day of technology is wrong.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
14,278 Posts
The clutch oil I changed was the cavity directly behind the clutch bell cover that requires a tube to refill.
As others have said, the oil you changed there has nothing to do with the clutch. It does not matter if you use oil safe for a wet clutch there or not.

The oil in the clutch comes from the engine crankcase. If you are not using wet clutch safe oil in the engine then you could end up with a slipping clutch.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Ok cool. I'll do an oil change for the engine oil, ride 20-30 miles and change it again. Any other oils to change as a precaution?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,204 Posts
I use conventional Rotella from Walmart at around $13.00 per gallon (15w40 I think). works great.It is JASO-MA for wet clutch compatability.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
20,100 Posts
I use conventional Rotella from Walmart at around $13.00 per gallon (15w40 I think). works great.It is JASO-MA for wet clutch compatibility.
Yepper. I do not run a 15W40 in the winter time but the owners manual says it is safe in our winters temperatures. My 650 does use a bit more 5W40 between oil changes than 15W40.

Mesmer1, I hope this flush works for ya. Good luck. And by the way, where in the universe are you located?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Did the double flush with 20+ miles in between and so far so good. I'll be testing it further next week.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
197 Posts
Not knowing any better, I changed my engine oil as soon as I bought my 06 650 with 10w40 Quaker State motor oil. I have not noticed any slipping but intend to change with a JASO-MA at next change. Will probably use Shell Rotella 5W40 synthetic or Rotella T 15W40 (Both meet JASO-MA requirements for use in wet clutch applications).
 
1 - 20 of 73 Posts
Top