[Shoe]

Just (yesterday) Replaced my rectifier with a MOSFET after, the last 3 OEMs failed in short order. Bike has just over 70k in 6 years.

Hot day 80+

Took the bike out, rode 20 miles at highway speeds, got off the highway and when I slowed the engine was chugging, pulled over and it shut off with FI light (no code), volt meter showed weak battery, bike would start but stop after a few chugs.

Put bike on center stand, starts, runs real rough at first, back wheel spins, FI appears when throttle twisted. Even when at idle I am unable to stop the rear wheel with my foot (burns sole), applying brake causes engine to stall.

Batt a meter now shows batt as good, when bike is started, rectifier light on meter is intermittent then solid, (coming up to full charge perhaps?)

Clutch just not disengaging.

I can't think how this could at all be related to a power issue, clutch is centerfugical right? Perhaps whack it with a hammer?

Bike is now in a parking lot waiting to be towed, ready to lay it to rest and go get a '13 but if theres something I am overlooking and can fix myself, or test for, I might keep it and fix it up. (I've pulled a Cvt)

On the fence

Thanks!

 

[MJR]

Your CVT is stuck in a higher gear ratio which won't let the clutch disengage. It could be the CVT electric shift motor like a local member I helped or possibly the Pulley Position Sensor.

 

[LeDude]

If you are getting an F1 signal each time you turn it on, you should try and find out what code it will display once you hot wire the jumper...

I would trace back the work that was done on the scoot and double check everything. If you have an older working rectifier, swap it out to see if it makes any difference.

the F1 code should set you on the right track to finding the source of the problem.

I am assuming that you have checked the usual things, side stand switch etc...

with 70k miles on it, it could have a worn out PPS or a bad CVT electric motor, easy enough to check both.

good luck....

 

[MJR]

Ok so since you were doing electrical work I would start by checking all the fuses (under seat and on the dash to the left of the locking glove box). If those all test good (using a test light probing the test points on top of the fuses) then I'd probably pull the panels off necessary to access the CVT electrical connections to test or remove motor/sensor.

At this point being stuck in gear I might pull the CVT shift motor out and crank the adjuster gears (I do not remember off the top of my head which way to turn the gears and with the belt tensioned you may need to use a flat blade screwdriver to break it free to rotate them by hand) to put it into low gear by turning them till they stop. You can verify by starting the bike and pulling in the rear brake lever to see if the clutch disengages or the bike stalls and depending on which you may have to turn the gears the opposite way until the clutch disengages. With the CVT shift motor out you can turn the shaft by hand and see how it feels. On dhobin's '07 you could feel a spot when turned by hand it was hitting something inside the case. It's normal to feel steps as it turns by the magnets it just shouldn't be rough/gritty or feel like it hits something.

Since the clutch is after the CVT and is centrifugal if the CVT does not down shift the clutch spins too fast to disengage.

 

[Shoe]

I'm on the fence, but I'm leaning toward giving to the dealer either just to take off my hands or in negotiation. Heading over to the dealer today to negotiate for a 13. Hope to be back on the road by Wednesday. Getting harder to look back at this point, even if I can fix it myself... I still need to get it towed.

Thanks friends!

 

[NormanB]

I think this is eminently fixable get it hauled home.

 

[MJR]

I think this is eminently fixable get it hauled home.

Agreed.

 

[Noth]

So Paul.. what did you do? If you got a 13.. I can't wait to see it..

 

[westnash]

Don't let the dealer just take it. Get it diagnosed and price to repair and then see if you want to trade. The prices I see for the 13s thus far seem like Jesse James is in charge.

 

[Shoe]

Got a 2013 3 days later, had the dealer just take my bike away - it was pretty beat up, many cracks in tupperwear, different color panels, stored outside year round, never covered. Was getting so I was putting more and more into it to keep it on the road, and was afraid to go any distance.

 

[Bill-Bill]

Shoe,

Good luck with your new 2013,I am sure you will like it.

Bill

 

[JustPassinThru]

Got a 2013 3 days later, had the dealer just take my bike away - it was pretty beat up, many cracks in tupperwear, different color panels, stored outside year round, never covered. Was getting so I was putting more and more into it to keep it on the road, and was afraid to go any distance.

I think you got your money's worth. 70,000 miles is impressive. I'd be satisfied if my Burgman gets half that.

My rule of thumb is: Cost of a vehicle, purchase and maintenance, less fuel, should come out to ten cents a mile. Your Burgman got those miles on there, for a purchase price of, what, $7000? You did all right, even if the dealer gave you nothing.