Clutch bearings

No, that inner bearing should be fine, just don’t beat on it.
Today sometime, I’m changing the needle bearing and that roller bearing. They’re in the freezer now shrinking a little as they get cold.

zrx212 said:

Put the hammer away if you plan on reusing needle bearing( I did use a hammer and long 3/8 extension to remove mine, but I had new needle bearing), using either a press or threaded rod with washers and/or sockets, you can push everything out at once, worth a try with the ridiculous price of the Susuki oem bearings, look here .. Variator Inspection & your feedback

I made my own tool for the snap ring from cheap "Harbor Freight" double joint pliers, ground ends to fit snap ring, here's a pick when I did my SW600. I also used a double sealed ball bearing, not oem, B400 is 6904-2RS.
View attachment 97131

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Just for future reference, the 6904-2RS takes the place of the roller bearing and not the needle bearing? And that size is 20 x 37 x 9 mm?

The only advantage I see with the oem bearing is easier to grease not being sealed?

Is there a reason one of the bearings is a needle bearing?

zrx would be a handy guy to have as a neighbor!

I appreciate the tips and pix.
The FSM states simply, Remove Snap Ring ☹
I see a use for my 12T press here, for the bearing. Maybe a heat gun too.

Uncle Fester said:

The only advantage I see with the oem bearing is easier to grease not being sealed?

Is there a reason one of the bearings is a needle bearing?

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A "good quality" sealed bearing will outlast the oem many times over, no lubing required, similar sized sealed bearings are fitted to motorcycle wheels, carry lot more load and easily go 100k miles, this particular bearing only spins at idle and it shares load with 2 other bearings(needle and cvt cover)

The needle bearing has a tighter clearance, capable of carring a lot more load for it's size, has more contact/support area to deal with shear loads and it's more compact/smaller, it also only spins at idle, but carries the load all the time.

It gets hot enough in there to discolor metal. I'd be leary of using just anything for fear of it melting....then you'd really have a potential mess. What's the purpose of those?

mike1nw said:

Not sure if missing one will generate noise, but I'll fix it while I can.

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Yes, definitely those missing/deteriorated, they are act both as bumpers/snubbers/dampers for the clutch shoes, the shoes don't move much they are always engaged to bumpers, it could be well above 300F in traffic on a clutch, a "Blue Bell" has reached 500F 😳, I made some of those bumpers before for my Chinese scooters, with high pressure fuel line sections.

Hmmmm
Clutch is noisy.
Took clutch and belt off, started bike, QUIET.
Took clutch shoes off, put clutch pulley and belt and outer cover on, RACKETY again.
So the culprit is one of the 2 small clutch bearings ☹ not clutch shoes.
Now looking at a Malossi clutch replacement. Just to end this adventure.
BTW those little snubbers are made of some rubber-like substance, flexible.

Oops. Malossi clutch doesn't include the pulley + innards. Just the shoe plate + shoes 😐

Uncle Fester said:

I'm thinking those bumpers are to dampen the sound so it is not metal to metal. My 2012 Hyundai Elantra Touring has a rubber coupler in the electric steering so the two gears do not hit metal to metal. Over time it deteriorates causing a clunk in the steering and some free play. You can get the part on Amazon for less the $7.00. Kind of a pain to get to. My car has a special policy on it 10 years/100K miles.
My 10 years expires 02/16/22 so I made an appointment at the dealer to get it replaced next week. Hope the mechanic don't screw it up and break something else. I'm afraid I suffer from mechanicphobia.

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will the loss of 1 of them hamper the balance At all ?

It kinda sucks Suzuki does not sell those rubber bumpers or any part of clutch, here's a cheaper option to Malossi,
possibly a chinese replica, Clutch for 2007 and Newer Suzuki Burgman 400 [21501-05H41-000] - $109.97 : Scooterpartsco.com

IAC, if I had to choose between oem $$$$ or Malossi, Malossi would be it, you can get their clutch + bell for similar cost of oem clutch alone !! Malossi Clutch and Bell for Suzuki Burgman AN400 2007 to Present [5216181] - $199.97 : Scooterpartsco.com

Been trying to source an alternate for that $30+ needle bearing no luck so far, P/N NQ253816U (KOYO) is 25mm ID x 38mm OD x 16mm Wide, found, but not cheaper, yet !!

(Oops nevermind)

mike1nw said:

Pressed out the "inner" bearing, cut down a grade 8 washer, insert through the "inner" bearing ....

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WOW, that's and awsome idea, I have lot's of large washers, etc. A fella with no hyd. press(ME), could still use same "cut washer " idea with a threaded rod/nuts/washers, etc and large diameter socket(1.5in.+)/spacer on the outside to draw bearing out into it, kinda of a puller. The small ball bearing comes out fairly easy, once you tackle snap ring.

Saving and reusing that needle bearing is great if still good, as it's very $$$, remember numbers/markings face out when reinstalling.

BTW, I"ll share your "washer" idea at SW600 Board (have similar thread over), if you don't mind

I just finished changing both these bearings. My biggest problem was getting the retainer clip out. After that I heated the pulley with heat gun and took my bearings out of the freezer. The needle bearing virtually fell into place (well a very small tap did it) the roller bearing did require more persuasion. I installed it hitting a piece of 2x4 first then used a socket matching the outer diameter if the bearing. I really didn’t have to hit I’d hard. The trick wether using this method or the very cool puller above is to take advantage of freezing the bearings and heating the housing. I firmly believe this reduces stress on all the parts involved.
With the help of forum members,
this project was a SUCCESS !