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Discussion Starter #1
I now have a whopping 110 miles on this new 2013. Unfortunately, the clutch action, From rest, slips too long before engaging.
Here's how I'm having to work the throttle from rest to get scooter to respond.
I quickly twist the throttle 1/3-1/2 open to get the motor to rev quickly up to 4000-4500 rpm, then hold it for a second or two so the scooter can start rolling, then I close throttle 1/8th turn for a second, and then slowly open the throttle another 1/8th-1/4 more turn to continue the acceleration.
I'm becoming annoyed by all of this blipping maneuver
when riding in town or just moving the bike from one parking spot to another.

I've been used to that instant takeoff, smooth roll on, from right off the throttle on the 650. So, in an effort to try to get the 400 to respond as close as can to that of the 600, I'm prepared to change out the stock clutch & rollers for the HiT clutch and 18g sliders today.
Pros: I get to mod my new scoot!
Con: Kiss the factory warranty good bye.

And here's where I'm asking some advise::confused::confused:
Do you think I should delay this mod until after my 1 yr factory warranty expiresl, or just go ahead and do it? THANKS!:p
 

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I did the same move, but can tell the HiT clutch does glaze too, much to my surprise. If your on the heavier side get ready to change the original spring set. When serviced it behaves as smooth as one can possibly imagine, but so does the OEM.

You will get more power on the rear wheel thou and the instant throttle response. In fact I think with 18 or lighter SR and DP clutch the power is only marginally less than the 650; i had both. Freshly refurbished CVT pulls like a liter bike -- literally. But maintenance intervals is still my concern, although i firmly believe the key to it is somewhere there. Other than that i don't think one might need a warranty much.
 

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I'd just do what I want and then reverse it when I take it in for a warranty service. What is that, like twice in the one year warranty period. No sweat.
 

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Jedd, at the moment your clutch isn't even bedded in. The pads are still soft and the clutch and engine generally won't behave as it will once it's run in. Once run in the engine will produce more power, and the clutch will lock up more quickly. My clutch locks very quickly after move off with very little slipping. I have standard clutch and rollers too. But I have honed my move off technique to be second nature. It will be for you as well once the bike is run in. My advice is to NOT do anything to it at all for the time being as at the moment you are not seeing the real bike.
 

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I agree with QM. Don't do anything major like that to a new bike. Learn to ride it first. There is nothing wrong with the clutch, its technique. If there is something wrong take it back under warranty.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks everyone for your thoughts regarding this. I'm going to leave it stock for now and work on breaking it in and technique first. Summer weather's in full swing, so I may as well keep twisting that throttle with all of this good riding weather ahead. Good news is that my hit clutch and 18g sliders came in.
 

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The HiT actually doesn't affect any OEM settings -- it just grabs the bell stronger.
 

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It's a 400cc , twist n ride brother and stop worrying about techniques, watch Vespa riders, it's a twist n roll gig, if that isn't working for you move on to something else that has more power, there isn't anything needs to be done to the machine... You're going to spend a lot of money playing with this and that, trying to make it something it's not...upgrades which are more often downgrades.
Some of those clutches run about 400 bucks ...old boy!!

I agree all this blipping maneuvering, is totally uncivilized and either something is wrong or it's just not powerful enough for you. Mine will scoot to 90 mph pretty quick and doesn't require any modified blipping, just twist n roll that's it, that's how it's always been since Vespa the Italian wasp.


As far as clutch talk goes..Bolzen is the man!
 

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Thanks, Chappy
-- i do look like a police on my white :D
 

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I bought 19g Dr Pulley sliders, if I did it again, I would go with 20g. The 19g provide quicker take-offs AND lower RPM on the highway. I rarely hot-rod my 400, as I'm too worried about gas mileage :rolleyes:
 

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By the way, there is no throttle blipping on a Burgman. Burgmans are the cure for gratuitous throttle blipping. :)
 

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I bought 19g Dr Pulley sliders, if I did it again, I would go with 20g. The 19g provide quicker take-offs AND lower RPM on the highway. I rarely hot-rod my 400, as I'm too worried about gas mileage :rolleyes:
Hi Mike, bit off topic and apologies to the op, but what revs is she pulling at indicated 70mph? Might do same as you.
 

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Would suggest starting with lighter weights to see if engine doesn't mind any heavier. then think about economy and other benefits
 

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Slightly off topic and aplogies to op. Bolzen, I haven't paid much attention to slider weight, and I'm not sure what the standard roller weight is and what I should likely go for when swapping to sliders. I had thought the standard rollers were 18g's. Is that right? I only want the slightest cut down in revs at 70mph. Don't want to load the engine too much at cruise.
 

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I believe OEM rollers are 19 g. Recommended SR weight is 10% lighter, which amounts to 17 g. If i were in Urop, i would likely go for that or even lighter. In Germany 16 g is arguably the most popular.

However in North America the distances are a good deal bigger and i ventured on 18 g. After a couple thousand miles i can attest, if roads are only and only flat one can possssibly go for 19 g but hardly heavier if bike load exceeds 200 lbs.
 

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One more note on the HiT while in process of finding the optimal setup. When tuned and serviced, man does this thing pull the bike. I can easily speak about 5 hp and 3 Nm difference from the standard clutch. More important is the instant momentum thou. If one varies speed often, this likely is the must mod.
 

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Although the stock rollers are ~ 19g, the DP 19g sliders behave differently. Really changed the feel of the bike.
I don't know at the moment what my revs are at 70mph but will make a note the next time I'm out. (If the tires don't melt onto the asphalt here in lower Alabama. Really)
 

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Bolzen, you've got my interest re the HIT clutch. Sounds fun. I will no doubt be following your lead. I know Daboo had a few kind words for the HIT too. I'll investigate further later. How many miles have you done with the HIT?

Mike, thanks I'd be very pleased if you can check you rpms at 70 with the 19g sliders.
 

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Have done around 2000 miles now. At first had not a good luck with the factory setup -- the clutch vibrated at take-offs and got glazed pretty soon. However i could appreciate the instant grab in response to the throttle when on the move.

Recommended tuneup spring combinations also didn't work -- the clutch still was shuddering at some point or the other. I began thinking for a moment about those who had bad experience, but just couldn't relate it to the heavier rider weight. Then i've found that i could use pillow springs for the clutch and vice versa, i.e. they proved interchangeable. Can't say if this is true for other scooter models. Thus options have widened and i tried another combination that finally worked.

Now more than 1000 smiles after, the clutch has been quiet and smooth. No vibration in any range of rpm whatsoever. But what a power. It can keep up with new 7 l Dodge I-6 Turbo Diesel for quite a while until speeds go above the safety and legal zone, which i try to avoid anyways. Folks that don't have a clue in motorcycles think this is some sort of a sportbike. I can only imagine their faces if they knew what it actually is :D
 

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Discussion Starter #20
So, you recommend "pillow springs" instead of the stock spring setup?
BTW, I googled pillow springs. All it shows is pillows used for sleeping. what's a pillow springs? THX!
 
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