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Discussion Starter #1
Received my new bearcat backrest (Thanks, Brad!) and attempted to remove the butt bumper so I could try out my new BabyBurg farkle. First problem was that the thingie that's supposed to hold the seat up, doesn't. Easy enough to work around (I'm an engineer, you see): cut a paint-stirring stick to an appropriate length and use it as a prop. Next problem: whoever put those little-bitty screws in to keep the butt bumper in place must've used LocTite and a cheater bar; they won't budge with any phillips screwdriver in my arsenal. I haven't completely wallered out the phillips slots in the screws yet, but I'm close. Time to go buy a higher quality screwdriver than the junk in my toolbox , maybe with a t-handle, and try again. If that doesn't work, what then? Drill the suckers out? I don't remember the BigBurg being this much trouble. Any and all suggestions appreciated.

Oh, and have a terrific 2013!
 

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Did you try giving the screwdriver a rap with a hammer before you turned it. That sometimes helps. I've removed those from 6 seats now. Managed to get them out on 4 of the 6. On the other two I just took a small drill bit and drilled them out.
 

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Mine came out with a little torque..
It was harder to line up the two arms on the Bearcat into the holes.. but after fiddling a bit it worked it's way in just fine..
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the suggestion. Now, is there a more elegant solution to my seat damper issue than the paint stick? Are those damping rods replaceable? I imagine Suzuki wants a fortune for the part.
 

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yup there's a few threads on it in here, and it's cheap and easy
saaaaay. yer an engineer
tell me , is it really hard to keep them big long trains balanced on them little skinny rails ? :cheers:
 

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wldbill said:
Thanks for the suggestion. Now, is there a more elegant solution to my seat damper issue than the paint stick? Are those damping rods replaceable? I imagine Suzuki wants a fortune for the part.
Check
www.LiftSupportsDepot.com
or
http://www.autopartsbylou.com

Same people....Lou worked with me, until I had a lift cylinder
that worked with my seat, with a gel pad & an Alaska Leather
seat cover...all added extra weight.
He actually has a mfg. facility to make custom cylinders.
I think he has cataloged cylinders for our 400's...not sure
about the 650's.
Several riders on a couple of scooter sites I frequent have
bought lift cylinders from Lou..as far as I know, all are happy.
 

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Paint stick works----oem shock/lift was not designed for additional weight.

Screwdrivers----there are more than one type of phillips---those sold in US don't work well on Japanese screw head----try Japan or at least bike tool sourced T handle-----take seat off....good rap with hammer on T and screw should come right out.
 

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There is a gas lift cylinder at Autozone that works very well. Here are the numbers from it: 4 / 6304 / R2211. I'm not sure which of those is the part number. I just took the ends off the original cylinder, installed them on the new one and was good to go. It took about 30 minutes. Be careful when installing the ends on the new cylinder, I used a drill, by hand, to make the holes a tiny bit bigger to avoid splitting the plastic ends.

Good luck

Ray
 

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Discussion Starter #9
All but Mikey's (snarky) replies were helpful and appreciated. Mikey, keeping those trains on those skinny rails is MUCH easier than removing those teeny screws. I appreciate your involvement!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Solved the stuck screws problem by drilling the suckers out. Bearcat backrest now in place. Temporarily solved the seat-won't-stay-up issue with a length of broom handle (painted a fetching black, natch) and a couple of chair leg caps. Pix to follow.
 
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