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Discussion Starter #1
Hey everyone, so my Burgman 400 has no problem starting when cold or when it's been sitting for a while. But as soon as I turn it off after riding and the engine is warm or hot, it has difficulty starting unless I give it some gas. Could this be a symptom of tight valves? Does anyone have any advice?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Has anyone else had this problem before? It starts fine when the engine is cold but has trouble starting when hot unless you give it some gas with the throttle
 

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A tight or burned valve can cause hart starting when warm or hot. There are other things that can produce the same symptoms. How is your fuel mileage?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
My fuel mileage is really terrible right now. I got only 50 miles a gallon when usually I get about 56
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Good news; the valve adjustment fixed the problem! The intake valves were ok but the exhaust valves were a bit too tight. Loosened them and put it back together and now it starts just fine when hot or cold.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Question, why is it that the exhaust valves usually go out of spec but the intake valves do not?
 

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Question, why is it that the exhaust valves usually go out of spec but the intake valves do not?
They see harder service (hot exhaust gasses), and the seat and valve wear faster--as they wear the valve seat recedes and the clearance between the valve stem and rocker arm tightens up.

Sorry I didn't get back to your PM, glad to see you got it sorted out...
 

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kxj5906 thank you for letting us know what the problem was. All too often someone will ask for help
and then not come back to tell us what cured the problem. Also it's good to hear you got it fixed. :thumbright:
 

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Glad to hear you got it figured out. Did your mpg go back up?
My burg is sucking a lot more fuel since winter. Some is to be expected between fast idle to get it warmed and the winter blends but I have lost 10+ mpg. I was getting just shy of 60 mpg in the summer but now 50 is the best it gets and sometimes worse{once was 45mpg}. I am not having any starting or running problems but I hate the loss of efficiency. Luckily gas is cheap right now.
 

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speedandstyle have you checked your air filter lately? A dirty air filter will lower your mileage.
 

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I think your Burgman model calls for a regular valve adjustment....you should write down your miles now and stay with the program to prevent damage. They were pretty far out if the bike wouldn't run.
 

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speedandstyle have you checked your air filter lately? A dirty air filter will lower your mileage.
I just went and checked it and it was a little dirty. Not enough that I would think it would be a problem but I cleaned and re-oiled it since I was there. I also adjusted the idle speed a bit as it was a idling a bit high even after it got warm. We will see if that has any affect.


How many miles on your Burg and when was last adjustment?
If you are asking me - I have just under 4500 miles on it and the valves were adjusted at the 600 mark by the dealer{or at least they say they did - former owner paid for it - I have the paperwork}.
 

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Winter mileage is partially dependent on how far you drive with a warm motor. Everything - including tires and wheel bearings and motor oil produce more drag in cold weather. Cold winter air can be more dense which produces more wind drag. There are a whole host of things that conspire to decrease fuel mileage. My 2013 VW TDI is down to 36mpg for the last fill up. In summer I normally get 41-43mpg. With the winter blend and all the other factors that reduce efficiency I'm not surprised your mileage has dropped by 10mpg. Thats about a 13% drop.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
One more thing to note guys. THIS IS SERIOUSLY IMPORTANT! When I blew up my engine during the summer of 2014, I MISADJUSTED THE VALVES. I adjusted the valves on the EXHAUST STROKE and not the COMPRESSION STROKE TOP DEAD CENTER. The valves were way too loose and there was a loud ticking sound. I ignored it and after 3000 miles the piston shot through the cylinder. I have pictures of the damage. My post on the engine failure had tons of responses. WHEN ADJUSTING VALVES, MAKE **** FRIGGIN SURE YOU ADJUST THEM ON THE COMPRESSION STROKE! Check the half moon and the timing marks to make sure you ALIGN THEM PROPERLY or RISK MISADJUSTING your valves. I spent $550 on a used engine on Ebay and $220 for towing. I am only 20, almost 21 years old and this has been a learning experience for me like no other. I replaced my blown up 2004 engine with a 2006 engine and could start it up again. I will never misadjust a valve again. The reason why this happened was that it wasn't TDC on the COMPRESSION STROKE.

And yes, to answer your questions I am experiencing better mpg and easy starting after the valve adjustment. God bless you all and I am happy to help, since others helped me, now I help others.
 

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TDC on the compression stroke is quite obvious by looking at the cam and rocker arm positions--at TDC on the exhaust stroke the exhaust valves will be open...
 

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I'm sure that someone will yell at me ;-) but when I checked my 650's valves, I used a long bamboo skewer inserted into the spark plug hole to "feel" and "watch" for TDC. I don't know if you can "feel" for the 400's TDC, I haven't done the valves on that one yet.
 

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I'm sure that someone will yell at me ;-) but when I checked my 650's valves, I used a long bamboo skewer inserted into the spark plug hole to "feel" and "watch" for TDC. I don't know if you can "feel" for the 400's TDC, I haven't done the valves on that one yet.
That is a good way to do it, in fact that is sort of how I do it on my 400--actually I use a TDC tool I've had for years (similar to this one)--same thing though.

On my '03 400 doing that and observing the cam position will get you to TDC on the compression stroke without fiddling with that plug on the generator case, and trying to see the line on the camshaft end...
 
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