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Discussion Starter #21
Nippleboss said:
Excellent instructions, I'm no mechanic but was able to follow your directions just taking it step by step. About half way through thought I'd gotten in over my head with scooter all apart and wife giving me the look like she thought I'd need to load it on a trailer and take to dealer to get it running again. only probem was getting one of those bolts of the cooling fan filter, managed to break my screwdriver even useing wrench on end of it and striped out the phillips head, ended up getting one bolt off and rotating the cover with the stripped bolt still in. Exaust were at .007 left them alone and adjusted intake to .005 (my smallest feeler gauge) changed sparkplug while everything was apart and changed oil.
Runs great and saved some money, thanks for taking the time to post those instructions because there was no way could have done it with just the shop manual

:D :lol: :roll:

Now, look at the picture titled "Loosening filter screws", and you'll notice a very easy way to loosen those stubborn air filter bolts. You might notice that I've already broken my stock screwdriver handle into half-a-dozen pieces by using a 17mm socket. Don't do this. It doesn't work, I assure you.
 

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Did valve adjust this weekend for first time at 1800miles on my an400k6. Found the valve adjustments in the tite-range and set all to mid-range.

I put my 400 up for sale right after I bought it and wish I had bought the 650 instead because I discovered this valve adjustment nuisance which seriously scared me, financially.

I'm glad it didn't sell, I had such a feeling of pride after I completed this maintenance and it only cost me the tools I didn't have, and I'm convinced it has more pep and is running smoother now.

Thank you for such clear instructions- I started on the shop manual and put it away after they told me to start by removing the trunk floor. I took my time and followed your directions word by word so I wouldn't make any stupid mistakes! Well after all was done it went back together in no time. Six hours in all, and thats because I took my time and had no idea what I was doing...I know for sure the next time it shouldn't take more than three and probably less. Actually looking forward to next inspection.
Believe it or not after reading the how to on the forum for the 650 inspection at 14,500 miles it has me rethinking buying a an650.

I feel sorry for everyone that passed on the an400k3-6's they are going to be in for a real surprise when it comes time for inspections on there 650's!

-For the 400 owner out there that is intimidated by this maintenance, you
can do it... don't get rid of your 400 which you love. Make a list of the tools you don't have and take a trip to Sears and put all the tools together and take a day you have nothing to do, print out the narrative, and take your time doing this going from your bike to the computer for the pics, back and forth till your finished. If you have assembled pressboard furniture for your home by following those confusing directions -you -can -do -this.

PS It was an extremely rewarding experience do to the fact I learned a lot about my machine in the process :lol:
 

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Great post and like you said it's not that hard. I did our B400 at about 1800 miles also and found them on the snug side and loosened them up. Screw & nut adjustment is just too easy. Personally, I don't think the valves moved at all........Zuki just sets 'em tight at the factory for less noise (ticking). It will be interesting to see if they have moved at 4.5K miles. My bet is, they don't but we'll see. Just say No, to shims. :lol: :lol: :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Myke said:
and I'm convinced it has more pep and is running smoother now.
That might not be your imagination. Though the change is very slight, loose valves generally mean more low end torque. Nothing earth-shattering, but a distinguishing butt-dyno might be able to pick it up. :wink:

djb383 said:
Just say No, to shims.
And YES to hydraulic lash adjustment, or better still, electric motors. :lol:
 

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10-4 on the butt-dyno. I sure thought I noticed an improvement and the wifey did also 'cause her comment to me was "did you do something to my bike, it seems to take off quicker". Like they say, when mama's happy, everbody's happy. :wink:

And another 10-4 to hydraulic lash.
 

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400 valve adjustment question

HELP, Im making this adjustment to my 2004 with 4200 miles. It was running a little rough compared to my 2005 with 3000 miles. Neither has been adjusted before. I could not get even a .002 feeler guage in the valves. Ive made the adjustments but i had to move the adjuster screw alot. Maybe 3 or 4 revolutions. IS THIS RIGHT? I think im at top dead center because the white dot lines up with the arrow in the TDC window. I make adjustments to all 4 valves without changing the crank position once at TDC, right???. I see the white mark or marks on the cam but am unsure what to do with them. There is another white mark on the housing next to the cam. The adjuster screws dont seem to hit the valve stem flush while im adjusting. They are at a very slight angle.
 

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more valve questions

Ive read the instructions again. I turn the crank and see the exhaust valves compress and release and then the intake valves do the same. I then see the 2 white dots and have the cam centered between them. At this point all 4 valves are floppy loose and i feel like i want to tighten them here but when I look at the Top Dead Center hole im not at TDC.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated
 

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Thanks for that detailed description. Having done it according to the manual (more or less) your instructions look to me to be a lot quicker. I think you advised turning the crank with the 24mm nut. I noticed that the crank end (2005 AN400) has flats that accept a 10mm box wrench end and didn't need a bigger wrench to turn the engine with the spark plug out. That seems safer to me than turning a nut that has already been torqued in the other rotational direction.

I liked the careful advice you gave - just a note, I believe pretty much all modern Japanese two-wheeler engines rotate counter-clockwise when viewed from the left side.
 

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Guys, let me ease your minds a bit about doing the valve adj. Several of us in my group had the older 400's and we all
went by the book and did the 600 mile adjustment ourselves just you your all are/have done. Yeah, it was a pain but the
next time around it was much, much easier. Like yours, little adj needed to be made. A couple of us did the second at 4000 and one at 6000....no adj were needed on any of ours. My suggestion: do the second one at 6000, than if your're anal again at 12K. After that, forget it for a long time. The oldest one in the group, and the last to be traded for someting newer was an '03 with about 30K on it and I don't think his valves were ever adj but once.
 

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I just wanted to say thanks for these instructions! I did it a couple weeks ago, setting my clearances to the middle of their ranges. Just one question: am I the only one who struggled to disconnect two of the electrical harnesses? Is there a secret to the one with lock tabs on three sides?
 

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Dumb question from someone just starting to assemble tools for this. What the heck is an Allen socket? Is that just an Allen wrench bit for a socket wrench, i.e. having the same function as an Allen wrench but made for a socket set?

Also a recommendation/source for a suitable cheap torque wrench would be excellent. :)

Rod
 

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Rod,

"Also a recommendation/source for a suitable cheap torque wrench would be excellent."

Harbor freight tools frequently runs specials. I'd recommend at least 1/4" and 3/8" sizes and better yet add a 1/2" size as well. The cost should be less than $50 for all three.
 

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Thanks for the procedure on checking the valve clearances. I did mine last weekend and the instructions were great (5,325 miles and all valves within spec). Took me about 4.5 hours with an oil change thrown in there. Not bad at all.

I have a question just to make sure I checked the clearances right (my first time messing with tappets in general). It appears that, with the valves closed (TDC), the tappet does not make contact with the valve stem squarely (not supprised, since they move in a semi-circular motion). So, the clearance is really the check between the 2 closest points between the tappet and valve stem, correct? Here's my really crude picture...

 

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WOW! Thanks so much for your hard work. I think Suzuki should hire you to write their shop manuals. You did an outstanding job and even I can understand it and will try it!! :D
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Ok guys, there are going to be a few updates for data points that I seem to have missed the first time around, and am getting to now that I've done another adjustment. For reference, my first adjustment was at 600 miles, this most recent one was at 19,500. :shock: And naturally, my thinnest gauge wouldn't even get in 2 of the tappets. So apparently this engine won't burn valves as easily as the Ninja 250. :cheers:

So on to the updates, in case you don't want to re-read the entire tutorial.

  • The feeler gauge should optimally be level and parallel to the valve disc. Just a little tip for those who haven't used feelers before. :wink:
    [/*:m:1nxvplfq]
  • I'll be adding into the tutorial some points on the PCV hose, and fixing it to reduce oil consumption.
    [/*:m:1nxvplfq]
  • I'll be adjusting the TDC finding instructions a little bit.
    [/*:m:1nxvplfq]
  • Anything else I think of, I'll post.[/*:m:1nxvplfq]
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Well crap. I can't edit my original post.

To fix the PCV hose while it's off, dig out the little rubber bit inside the hose, and using a clamp, clamp it near the engine side of the hose tightly enough that it won't move, but not so tightly that you crush it. This should cure or at least reduce oil consumption.

Apparently, the white mark I mentioned in the first post is only on my machine. Just watch the valves as you run the engine around, and remember, 720 degrees of crank rotation equals 360 degrees of cam rotation. The exhausts will cycle, the intakes will cycle, then the exhausts will *click*. By clicking, I mean they will engage just very slightly, and then release, and click in the process. Make the adjustments and checks around halfway between the click and the beginning of the next cycle. And DON'T EVER ROTATE THE ENGINE BOLT CLOCKWISE, EVER! ALWAYS COUNTER-CLOCKWISE!

Also, to align the seat properly after the adjustment, remove the tupperware between the seat and the fuel filler door, loosely attach the seat, then close it, shift it around a bit, then sit down on it, then proceed to tighten the bolts while the seat is still closed. This will almost certainly align the seat properly to the rear latch.
 
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