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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys, I need your input. My stator needs replacing on my scoot. I have looked at the service manual and it looks pretty straight forward and something I think I can handle. But I have a question about whether you need to pull the bearing and oil seal; it looks like it needs special tooling to do that. Looking at the photos the stator is fastened behind the cover and I wouldn't need to mess with the bearing or the seal if they were in good condition. It looks like the shaft fits into the bearing with the seal behind that, I guess there is the possibility that you could screw up either one pulling the cover off. Also I'm thinking of using an after market stator (RMstator) which I can get off Amazon for about $210. Anyone done this job can give me some tips? Thanks in advance, my Burgy needs some love.
By the way I have already changed out the regulator/rectifier hoping that was the problem, but went I measured the AC voltage off the stator I was only getting a little over 3 volts output.
 

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That bearing is very robust, likely a Koyo brand, very unlikely to fail normally. The magnet is strong, a trick I've used, is to get 4 longer 6mm bolts to use as guides to remove/install, cut the heads off, about 50mm/2in. long. Install gasket with a light coat of "moto seal", place on crankcase and dowels, then install cover, etc. No oil drain required on side stand, Good luck
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
That bearing is very robust, likely a Koyo brand, very unlikely to fail normally. The magnet is strong, a trick I've used, is to get 4 longer 6mm bolts to use as guides to remove/install, cut the heads off, about 50mm/2in. long. Install gasket with a light coat of "moto seal", place on crankcase and dowels, then install cover, etc. No oil drain required on side stand, Good luck
Thank you zrx212 for the tips, are the longer bolts used to guide the case/cover back on?
 

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The service manual states remove the stator, ckp sensor and lead wire guide first. Then the next step is remove the snap ring and bearing. So it sounds to me that the bearing is not removed unless you are doing the oil seal. The stator is held on by bolts torqued to 8 ft. lbs.

Maybe this video will help. Can you share a link for the aftermarket stator? I'd like to just check it out. OEM is showing about $460.00.

 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The service manual states remove the stator, ckp sensor and lead wire guide first. Then the next step is remove the snap ring and bearing. So it sounds to me that the bearing is not removed unless you are doing the oil seal. The stator is held on by bolts torqued to 8 ft. lbs.

Maybe this video will help. Can you share a link for the aftermarket stator? I'd like to just check it out. OEM is showing about $460.00.


Uncle Fester, I saw on another YouTube that Re RMstator and Ricky Stators are the best after market.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I use them for both removal and installation, you want a smooth shank and just finger tight.
I guess I'm not understanding the use of these bolts, are they used to pull the cover off? And if so, how are they used? I'm looking at a 2007 service manual pics and it show the cover already off.
 

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Maybe these pics will help, the thing is you won't have to fight the pull of the magnet so much to align cover, the long bolts will help guide it in, especially when installing, it could prevent slam/bind/damage your new stator otherwise o_O Keep your fingers clear of mating surfaces, may get pinched. :whistle: BTW the bolts don't need to be that long, but it doesn't hurt.

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Maybe these pics will help, the thing is you won't have to fight the pull of the magnet so much to align cover, the long bolts will help guide it in, especially when installing, it could prevent slam/bind/damage your new stator otherwise o_O Keep your fingers clear of mating surfaces, may get pinched. :whistle: BTW the bolts don't need to be that long, but it doesn't hurt.

View attachment 98939 View attachment 98940
Okay, Thank-you zrx212! Now I understand, the pics are excellent and I'm they will help others who may want to do this project. With your help I believe I can take on this project, looks like I will have to remove some Tupperware to get to and to run wiring. Thanks again!
 

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Let us know how it turns out!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Let us know how it turns out!
Uncle Fester, I ordered the stator from Amazon and also the long bolts that were suggested. All I need to order now is a new gasket, I probably order that from the dealer; doesn't seem the be any deals on that and shipping is high.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
That bearing is very robust, likely a Koyo brand, very unlikely to fail normally. The magnet is strong, a trick I've used, is to get 4 longer 6mm bolts to use as guides to remove/install, cut the heads off, about 50mm/2in. long. Install gasket with a light coat of "moto seal", place on crankcase and dowels, then install cover, etc. No oil drain required on side stand, Good luck
Okay, I have the bolts out and can't seem to pull the cover off. I can move the cover about 1/8" and then it seems to bang against something. Also what do you grab to pull that cover off, there doesn't seem to be any places for my fingers to grab on and pull. Oh, I working on a 2011 Burgman 400. Is there any more tips you can help me out with, I did your long bolt thing by the way.
 

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Sorry I was thinking of the clutch cover.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Well I finally got that stator cover off, after much prying, banging, swearing and bloody knuckles! Putting back on was about as much fun. The old stator had a bad/black top coil and burned wires, so it was bad. Went to start it back up and got a F1 code, won't start. I will have to pull codes tomorrow. Man this stator job is a pain in the ass!
 

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Well I finally got that stator cover off, after much prying, banging, swearing and bloody knuckles! Putting back on was about as much fun. The old stator had a bad/black top coil and burned wires, so it was bad. Went to start it back up and got a F1 code, won't start. I will have to pull codes tomorrow. Man this stator job is a pain in the ass!
the crank shaft position sensor is on the stator cover. did you plug it back in? C12 is the DTC for the crank sensor.
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also, running the oil level low can cause the stator burning...the oil 'cools' it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
the crank shaft position sensor is on the stator cover. did you plug it back in? C12 is the DTC for the crank sensor.
View attachment 99263
View attachment 99264
also, running the oil level low can cause the stator burning...the oil 'cools' it.
Thanks JRoss, I did plug that baby in. Got appts this am, will pull codes this afternoon.
 
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Well the on going saga of no battery charging goes on. Put the new stator in and I'm not getting any AC off the stator, ran resistance test and checked for ground problems; tests okay. Now this testing is right off the pig tail of the stator. I have dropped an email to Racetech Electric and seeking their advice, that's who I purchased the stator from. Now I understand why the dealers charge so much for this project. Will keep ya posted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thanks JRoss, I did plug that baby in. Got appts this am, will pull codes this afternoon.
I lied, I thought I had it plugged in, but it was the O2 sensor plug I did. Plug on stator for the pick up sensor didn't match my old one, so I had to hard wire patch that plug set up. But you were right it coded that sensor.
 
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