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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,

This problem was floating previously, it was taking from 10 seconds to few minutes but engine was always starting before. Not this morning...

When I turn the ignition switch to ON dash starts its normal procedure, after it is finished coolant temperature show HIGH, and started does not work, neither pump is working. Similar behavior with Engine Stop switch OFF, or Side Stand switch OFF. I was hoping it was some connection issue, or a wire but after few hours with wiring system in hands and checks outside I was disappointed as it does not seems so. Few things that made me worried:

1. Safety relay Yellow-Green has 0,05v, as well as further Start and Engine Switch buttons.
2. Fuse Box Light Blue wire showing as "-" in the system, but it has actually 12v.
3. Fuse Box Orange-Black wire is 0.

Obviously I was sure Orange Black in the fuse must be 12 so that it works better... I made it 12 and heard pump immediately. Also starter did some work but battery was already dead so I could not fire up the engine.


Now is there anyone who knows what kind of issue am I having? where should I look further?
 

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Corrosion on the terminals in any of the connectors. Faulty temp sensor. Faulty temp sensor wiring caused by corrosion. Could be any number of things. Methodical checking of all connections would be a good start. Disconnect one at a time check for corrosion clean and reassemble. Make sure you do the ones hidden under the battery these are known to give issues with corrosion. This is all assumption based on your description.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
I have measured today that there is 12v on the green, that goes to the side stand switch from relay next to fuse box. Just wondering... How come 12v to the side stand, if the other wire from the Side Stand goes directly to "-" on the battery? Following diagram I can see side stand connects 12v with Battery"-" when pushed, meaning when side stand is up? sounds like I am lost.
90969



How do I properly check Side Stand Switch, or what should I quickly do to turn it off?
 

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I never had a 2 wheel with the side stand safety switch and it was something I wasnt about to start getting used to

you can cut both wires and just connect them together. I soldered mine, used some dielectric grease over it to protect from elements and then used a heat shrink tube half way then zip tied the other half with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
I never had a 2 wheel with the side stand safety switch and it was something I wasnt about to start getting used to

you can cut both wires and just connect them together. I soldered mine, used some dielectric grease over it to protect from elements and then used a heat shrink tube half way then zip tied the other half with it.
Isnt it strange that I will connect 12v with Battery "-"?

Update:
It is probably not, since there is a diode in the relay that should prevent the circuit?
I am not an electrician... :)
 

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If you follow the lead back from the switch there is a connector plug.
Disconnect that, there will be little tabs that clip it together, be careful not to break them.

On the part connected to the bike, you can short circuit them with heavy wire or something and then turn the bike on.

For the switch side you can check for continuity.
If you don’t have a tester metre you can use a battery and a bulb that match each other (such as a flashlight/torch) and feed one side of the wire to the terminals to the switch and see if the switch turns the bulb on and off.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I have been discussing thsi issue with a friend of mine that has some background in electronic. He looked into the diagram and heard all my detailed explanation of how was it starting and how does it look like and what is the dash saying. His conclusion is following:

1. Test the Side Stand Switch. Or basically exclude it from the system. In order to do so I just connect "-" with the green wire on the relay. This should exclude the switch and Bike should run.
2. If 1 does not help - Relay is the problem. He suggested to connect two pins to avoid the Side Stand Relay at all ->

90975


G comes from Side Stand Switch. It is "-" by itself, but relay is sending 12v to it. When they meet diode in the relay should cut 12v away, and this should open the relay to O\B for 12v which I am missing now. Since 12v is coming from O\Y I can just connect O\Y with O\B and disconnect Side Stand connector so that 12V from relay do not hit the "-".

Based on my explanation of how did this problem evolve his opinion is that its relay. And it sounds true, honestly. The thing is that previously I was turning ignition on and it could take from 0 to 120 seconds before the CHECK with HIGH TEMPERATURE error will disappear and the starter will run. It was kinda floating. Sometimes it was ready right away, sometimes I was standing with pressed started button and brake waiting for a minute or so.

I wanted to turn the Side Stand Switch off long time ago. Probably not this way, but if it will work I'll be OK.

After I check if any of 2 options works I will report.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Here comes the result of my investigation.

I have measured side stand with the multi-meter separately from the whole system, which showed no reaction on side stand being down or up. As a conclusion I should say Side Stand Switch does not work, but I believe, honestly, it does work as it did 2 days ago perfectly. And it is my measuring ability that influenced the result here. Nevertheless I have unplugged it from the system as it was necessary after my further investigation.
When I have grounded green wire in the relay nothing changed, which, as stated above, becomes a relay issue. Most probably dead. I Have locked Yellow\Black with Yellow\White wires to force power to the system and avoid any influence from Side Stand Switch and its relay. Green wire was disconnected from the circuit after I unplugged Side Stand Switch connector. It was necessary that 12V from relay do not come to the "-" on the battery (I am actually not sure if it is necessary, but it is safer like this, to me).

Now after I turn the ignition on I can hear the pump working immediately. Also engine is not stopped after side stand lifted down. It will take a little time to get used to, but it is worth it. Will see if I will change the relay, or just enjoy riding without it.

Back on the streets this morning.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
BTW, I occasionally see F1 with C28 code. But thats another story. Maybe will be back with more news one day.
 
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