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This is a 2007 Burgman 400 with 37,400 miles, it shuddered once ran another five miles then just stopped running. There are no messages on the dash and the electrical is all operating normally, however it does not make the humming noise when you first turn the key on. I always thought that was the fuel pump starting up.
I am the original owner and have maintained it well. I am hoping I just need to replace the fuel pump?
 

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Check the various interlock switches? Particularly the kickstand.

Does the engine turn over?

If it does, then cranking for 4-5 seconds should provide an FI indication. There is a 'magic' plug (don't know where it is on Burgmans) that you can jumper to get the diagnostic code for the FI indicator.

If you cannot get an FI indication, I fear there may be more at fault than simply the fuel pump.
 

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markc786413 said:
No it does not even turn over.
Then it seems unlikely that the fuel pump is the issue.

I'd jump on the kickstand as the likely culprit.
 

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markc786413 said:
I did push on the kickstand interlock switch by hand and tried to start it and it did start, THANK YOU!
There was just no way I was going to let you replace the fuel pump :D
Had to find something else to blame. Glad you're up and running :cheers:
 

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If it started when pressing on the sidestand interlock, then it would seem the SS switch is bad or not being pushed in far enough when the side stand is up.

Disabled mine shortly after getting the bike, used a small bit of 0.028" sheet aluminum and a wire-tie:

 

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cliffyk said:
If it started when pressing on the sidestand interlock, then it would seem the SS switch is bad or not being pushed in far enough when the side stand is up.

Disabled mine shortly after getting the bike, used a small bit of 0.028" sheet aluminum and a wire-tie:


OMG......This is a "Glorious Hack"

Love it
 

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What about a little bit of electricial contact cleaner?
 

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The switch is, as far as I can tell could be wrong (AFAICTCBW), an encapsulated magnetic reed assembly--no open to the world contacts to be cleaned...
 

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cliffyk said:
If it started when pressing on the sidestand interlock, then it would seem the SS switch is bad or not being pushed in far enough when the side stand is up.

Disabled mine shortly after getting the bike, used a small bit of 0.028" sheet aluminum and a wire-tie:

I did the same to my kickstand switch within 2-3 weeks after purchase I used a zip tie and hot glue......!!!
 

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Muse said:
A battery just shxxx itself will have the same symptoms reported here.
It would, however it is unlikely that manually depressing the side stand switch would by itself revive a dead battery:

markc786413 in post #6 said:
I did push on the kickstand interlock switch by hand and tried to start it and it did start, THANK YOU!
 

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Muse said:
A battery just shxxx itself will have the same symptoms reported here.
I was keying on "electrical is all operating normally" and "does not make the humming noise when you first turn the key on"

If the battery was good enough to light up the headlights (roughly 13 amps) and bring up the CPU, then I would think it would have the capacity to run the fuel pump (another 3 amps). So I suggested the simplest single point cause to meet the conditions.

We would have eventually gotten around to a lot more possibilities but it seemed prudent to do the easy, free, stuff first.

[Edit to add:] And we may not be done yet, could all be happy coincidence. But today I'm happy :cheers:
 

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cliffyk said:
If it started when pressing on the sidestand interlock, then it would seem the SS switch is bad or not being pushed in far enough when the side stand is up.

Disabled mine shortly after getting the bike, used a small bit of 0.028" sheet aluminum and a wire-tie:

That's genius! :thumbup:
 

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cliffyk said:
Occam's razor...
isn't this a rather poetic and polite and ironically a violation of it's own theory for k.i.s.s. :? :?:
 

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I was inspired and fed up with this switch. Been many times I have stopped to check something, put the side stand down and killed the engine. My word, the bloody thing has a parking brake no less, what do I need a kill switch for.

Anyway, thanks for the ideas, I used several zip ties on mine, plus I removed it from its mount (2 x 8mm bolts) and tied it up out of the way. This seemed like the easiest way to defeat this switch.

While at it I also remove the center stand. Not much of a need for it between brake and tyre work.

Center stand, besides being ugly weight more than 10 pounds. No more scraping and digging in the corners for me :D
 

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Yup, the centerstand was another of the first things to go away on mine as well--it and the bolts live on a bottom shelf in my garage ready if needed...
 
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