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Discussion Starter · #41 · (Edited)
the SM states to use a volt meter with peak detection...silly question...are you using general digital volt meter? If yes, being it's only 1 magnet that's passing the coil at cranking speed the voltage pulse may not be long enough for it to detect/display. :unsure:
the ckp sensor -my mistake at the beginning was not checking the voltage they produce, I only checked the resistance.
i assumed it was fine as resistance was good as per spec, scroll up, I put a picture of the specifications of sensors.
any multimeter will read 1v to 1000v unfortunately, I received no reading at all.
check this video it's about all types of sensors the one I have has 2 wires, if you are right about not being able to read voltage without the right tool, its no big drama it only cost me 20 dollars but if I'm right this is not just going to help me it will help others with same problem wish me luck and Merry Christmas everyone
 

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Discussion Starter · #42 · (Edited)
Since you're getting continuity within spec, it seems like the sensor itself (at least the coil) is fine. Maybe a magnet problem?
magnet is strong, it was a pain taking out the cover.
I have looked at the magneto see nothing wrong.
is there a way to check it?
came across this on youtube today seems I'm not alone
 

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magnet is strong, it was a pain taking out the cover.
I have looked at the magneto see nothing wrong.
is there a way to check it?
came across this on youtube today seems I'm not alone
Do you have access to an oscilloscope? I have a couple left over from my career as an electronic tech. I use one occasionally for problems like yours. Last time was on a Briggs & Stratton lawn mower engine. Similar technology with magneto pickup pulse. The only tricky part might be setting up the scope “trigger” correctly to see the pulse. I can probably help with that if you find a scope.

If you can’t locate a scope, set your digital meter to the lowest volt scale ac or dc probably won’t matter. I think you should see the meter display flicker as the flywheel magnet passes the pickup coil.

good luck!!!
 

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As above but the voltage is very low so an analogue meter would show the needle flicker. It will be less than 1V. Assuming youve ruled out all the interlock switches side stand kill switch etc it is likely the pulser or the cdi. Swapping a known good cdi would be helpful if you can source/ borrow one. Check the ground to the cdi is good as well.
Also check the wires to the magnetic pick ups are good simple continuity test.
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
Do you have access to an oscilloscope? I have a couple left over from my career as an electronic tech. I use one occasionally for problems like yours. Last time was on a Briggs & Stratton lawn mower engine. Similar technology with magneto pickup pulse. The only tricky part might be setting up the scope “trigger” correctly to see the pulse. I can probably help with that if you find a scope.

If you can’t locate a scope, set your digital meter to the lowest volt scale ac or dc probably won’t matter. I think you should see the meter display flicker as the flywheel magnet passes the pickup coil.

good luck!!!
thanks for the help.
my question is why the Suzuki Burgman an400 workshop manual does not mention testing ckp with an oscilloscope?
it states while cranking I should get 4.5v and more NOT 4.5mv and more, right so my multimeter should be able to work to me i should have seen anything and there was nothing..

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thanks for the help.
my question is why the Suzuki Burgman an400 workshop manual does not mention testing ckp with an oscilloscope?
it states while cranking I should get 4.5v and more NOT 4.5mv and more, right so my multimeter should be able to work to me i should have seen anything and there was nothing..

View attachment 96909
Why would they it's just another bit of kit that can be used if you just happen to have one. Not a lot of people would have one in their garage kit list why would they. Suzuki dont say use a spade to split the tyre bead but many of us do. 😁
 

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You're missing a key component here....the Suzuki "peak volt adapter". Presumably a device that comes with their test meter set and inserted between the leads and meter, so who knows what it actually is or the specs. At a minimum you will need a decent digital multimeter with a peak read feature. Even then, no one knows if the specs would be the same as the Suzuki device, for example, the length of a pulse that will register (the output of the ckp sensor is likely in the millisecond range). Regardless, I'd say you would be be better off with a higher-end meter such as Fluke, but not everyone wants to spend $200 - 400 on a meter. (Although well worth it IMHO.)
 
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You're missing a key component here....the Suzuki "peak volt adapter". Presumably a device that comes with their test meter set and inserted between the leads and meter, so who knows what it actually is or the specs. At a minimum you will need a decent digital multimeter with a peak read feature. Even then, no one knows if the specs would be the same as the Suzuki device, for example, the length of a pulse that will register (the output of the ckp sensor is likely in the millisecond range). Regardless, I'd say you would be be better off with a higher-end meter such as Fluke, but not everyone wants to spend $200 - 400 on a meter. (Although well worth it IMHO.)
This may be it...
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 · (Edited)
This may be it...
nice thanks
been reading and watching people creating the adapter
From what I see is only good for multimeters with DC voltage only
my one is a digital multimeter with DC and AC.
maybe I miss understood the video.
i have a question.
is there a gap between ckp and flywheel magneto and to adjust the gap do i have to remove
flywheel magneto?I don't see any of this info in manual .
has anyone made video

 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
All multimeters measure AC and DC, just set it to the appropriate scale.
is there a gap between ckp and flywheel magneto and to adjust the gap do i have to remove
flywheel magneto?I don't see any of this info in manual
 

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I've never heard of any adjustment in the gap....once it's mounted I think it just is what it is.
Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 · (Edited)
Managed to get it in.
at first, was not easy because couldn't put the shaft in line with the center bearing.
with a bit of thinking got me 4 long bolts with the same size thread as the original cover bolts.
gently tapped cover with a rubber mallet and she went in like Flynn :)
built me an adaptor just like in the video.
so let's try this sucker see if I get some output voltage.
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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
did the ckp test and it goes on 4.29v i think a little low should be 4.5v +.
i think the resistor in my box is causing it so i'll say its a pass.
everything checks out .
got to check the ECM plug the resistance to ckp.
if it's a pass them I believe ECU is fried
 

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Well done Fernando. I agree with your conclusion that the pickup is good.

it is of course possible that your ECU Is faulty.

it is more likely that you have a bad connection or broken wire somewhere in the path from the pickup sensor to the ECU.

good luck.
Tom
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 · (Edited)
ECM Coupler wires 3 and 9 checks out so ECM box CDI is fried.
the question is how did it get damaged?
manual says if placing battery terminals in the wrong way will damage ECM.
The previous owner fried ECU found out the cost and left the bike out in the weather
as the cost to replace ECM was too much, I think it makes sense, what do you think?
just a question about engine number location is that engine number in the picture?
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Yes it is.(y)

My Kwack GT750 toasted it's black box when I got caught out in a great downpour.
If you are lucky you may find a used one. Not large or heavy, so postage ought not to be excessive.
Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
My Kwack GT750 toasted it's black box when I got caught out in a great downpour.
If you are lucky you may find a used one. Not large or heavy, so postage ought not to be excessive.
Good luck.
i can get it fixed here for 600 dollars it's way too much for me.
been looking on eBay just not sure if they suit my bike.
most sellers from overseas,UK,US,GER,ITA,FRA.
contacted a few sellers they say if numbers are the same should work.
contacted sellers again what numbers need to be same?
I get no answer.the only numbers matching is what i circle
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