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It is best to use a 12 volt 'Test Light' while searching for issues. To test for 12 volt + put the clamp on battery - and then probe with the sharp tip. For looking for grounds, put the clamp on battery + and probe with the tip. Once you have found the power, then use a "Volt - Ohm" meter to make sure the correct volts are there.

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Now, testing fuses. Use the test light with the clamp on battery - and then probe each fuse top on the two test points. You should have the same volts on both test points. If you find 12 V on one side but the other is dead, that fuse is BAD even if it looks OK.
Some fuses may not be powered on unless the ignition is turned on.

These are shown on the next picture.
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Looks to be an earth to other components could be anything tail lights etc. If it is maybe you bent a pin so no earth to that component however if you had power before you reconnected it it can't be that you must have done something else. Check the fuses again using a voltmeter on continuity. If they are all OK look for something that you disturbed recently
When you say "earth" here, is that the same as "ground", as for example "ground wire"?
 

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When you say "earth" here, is that the same as "ground", as for example "ground wire"?
“common”, and “ground”, are the best descriptors for isolated DC systems like used in motorcycles. “Earth “, or “Earth ground” terms should be used only for systems that actually flow current through the Earth, such as AC power distributions systems, like what powers your house.
 

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Yes.
Brit terminology.
Can confirm - We use “earth” in a similar way to US “ground”
(cos the ground happens to be where we keep most of our earth :) )

Its a shortening of “chassis earth”.
Back in the ‘30s it started to become practice to use black wires were used to (chassis) earth, because that’s how Lucas did things and this entered into British Standard AU7 in 1960 something.
(which if you can get hold of a copy - refers to just “earth”)

Some old classics/vintage vehicles still use their original positive earth systems and I’ve been bitten more than once. I also got a belt off a tachometer bezel because the wasted spark system worked with wires to the coil either way round, never did that a second time :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
update .
i checked the plug I cleaned with a multimeter the female plug was ok the male plug was no good.
I must have broken wires, not the plastic insulation.
anyway, I've cut it off and replaced the connector.
soldered the connectors also shrink tape it and have power now.
still no spark :(
In the workshop manual, I noticed a picture of the cluster with 3 lines top means bad, middle
good, bottom bad, toke picture of mine, and my one is on top for bad.
wasn't paying much attention to this and I can't find the page I have 3 manuals LOL
Can someone explain what this is?
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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
I still think it is the ECM and i found this https://vectriq.com.au/
there in Sydney hopefully I can find the answer.
I have checked every earth every connector all good.
I almost spliced the loom to find where that earth wire was going
but that's crazy here a picture of my ECM all pins nice .
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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
the reason I think ECM problem.
the immobilizer key is the wrong key.
there are no signs of damage to the ignition lock.
key turns easy and cranks BUT.
key doesn't work on the glove box or fuel cap.
it makes me believe I have the wrong key
I will need a transponder for my key.
I will need to send my ecu+key to get it checked out.
what do you guys think?
anyone had similar experience
 

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Yes I do think this could be the Immobilizer system. Not sure if they need the whole bike or just the ECM to flash it to this key. The European and Asian bike owners may have more info. That I know, none of the Canada, USA, Mexico or Centrail America got the Immobilizer. Maybe the South American bikes did.
 
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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
so if it's not an Immobilizer system what else can affect spark?
timing cams out by a tooth maybe is it possible?
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
ok been thinking about this all day at work and everyone wondering what's wrong with me :)
I have a feeling the problem is the battery, power at coils 13.5v then once I crank voltage drops to 10v.
how is ECU going to run on 10v?
will try later when i get home with another battery
 

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You can jump from a "NOT RUNNING" car or Ute but do not start the engine of the car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 · (Edited)
still no spark with 2 batteries .
decided to check ckp sensor =resistance 240 ohms the spec between 190-290 ohms so is within spec.
check voltage and is 0v should be 4.5v when cracking.
i think that's the problem a bad CKP sensor .
I'm not a mechanic or electrician but i believe ckp sensor works on megnate from
the crank or generator and should produce 4.5v,in my case i get zero volts

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Since you're getting continuity within spec, it seems like the sensor itself (at least the coil) is fine. Maybe a magnet problem?
 
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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
can't buy CKP separately.
going to go aftermarket 15.17US $ 15% OFF|New Motorcycle Outboard Pulse Sensor For Suzuki AN400Z Burgman400 2007 2008 2009 2010 AN400 Burgman 400 2011 2012 2013 2014 2016| | - AliExpress
going to be a while before I get it, wish me luck!
 

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still no spark with 2 batteries .
decided to check ckp sensor =resistance 240 ohms the spec between 190-290 ohms so is within spec.
check voltage and is 0v should be 4.5v when cracking.
i think that's the problem a bad CKP sensor .
I'm not a mechanic or electrician but i believe ckp sensor works on megnate from
the crank or generator and should produce 4.5v,in my case i get zero volts

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the SM states to use a volt meter with peak detection...silly question...are you using general digital volt meter? If yes, being it's only 1 magnet that's passing the coil at cranking speed the voltage pulse may not be long enough for it to detect/display. :unsure:
 
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