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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Suzuki Burgman 400 K7 was neglected out in the weather for years.
All body panels were removed by the owner as he wanted to paint it never found the time.
lucky me I bought it very cheap not realizing what I was getting into.
so far tried to put all the panels on to make sure i got everything and I found a few pieces missing .
all the rubber floorboards, the center dash piece and top long piece with Suzuki logo, also the complete throttle body,
bought all the parts from the UK and yes was bought used, couldn't find any parts here in Australia.
didn't realize how expensive parts are at the time but it cost me more than what I paid for the whole bike.
so my budget is gone.
so the next thing I did was paint the frame on the bike as surface rust was getting pretty bad.
got a new battery and turned the engine over without the sparkplug dropped a few drops of oil in cylinder.
let it crank for 1 minute checked compression was pretty good 105psi this bike has done 20,000kms.
The next thing checked for spark it was giving me 1 spark and nothing else.
cleaned every connector, the cluster is showing F1 and the throttle body the 1st butterfly keeps moving- opening and closing constantly,i think I need to adjust tps ,
The next thing I did the dealers mode it gave me 2 codes c41 c21 fixed both c41 was bad fuel pump relay-replaced it
c21 was air filter sensor just needed it to plug it in no more codes C00 but once i remove dealer mode I get F1
now still can't work out the spark issue,
my question is the relay next to the fuel pump relay, is that the handbrake-side stand relay?
if yes if this relay is bad can't it cause the spark issue?
also, does the seat switch light can it cause a spark issue if the seat is up?
thanks any help
 

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not too sure but I maybe 105psi is low ?

take a look at a print screen from the manual.


dont fret, the guru's will jump in to help

shame about the body panels that are missing. especially the expensive throttle body.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
94psi is the limit it will start compression should go higher once it starts as valves will move etc.
thanks appreciate your time
 

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The Burgman 400 has a compression release that lowers the PSI while cranking and once started ti shuts off for full compression.
 
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not too sure but I maybe 105psi is low ?
For a scooter/engine that's been sitting for a while it could indicate rusty valves/valve seats and stuck piston rings, etc., etc. o_O:unsure: Not trying to be a "Johnny-Come Lately" or "Monday Morning Quaterback" and with all due respect, but if there's a lot known and yet to be found possible unknown issues, maybe is time to think how far $$$/time wise you want to invest in this project, parts are expensive and time is non-renewable commodity !!, I'm absolutely speaking from my own experience in similar situation, A. you could part out scooter and possibly recoup "MORE" money B. Save parts for next B400 you know they are expensive/hard to find. Just my opinion. Rant over:censored:

Back on topic ...


the cluster is showing F1 and the throttle body the 1st butterfly keeps moving- opening and closing constantly,i think I need to adjust tps ,
The light will remain until fixed, try youtube

my question is the relay next to the fuel pump relay, is that the handbrake-side stand relay?
if yes if this relay is bad can't it cause the spark issue?
The sidestand/Turn signal relay is next to LH fuse box, under removable cover. this relay sends power(12V+) to kill switch, wich sends power to starter push buttom and coil, so if bike cranks/turns over with sidestand up and either brake lever pulled, relay is good. With meter check OW orange white(+) wire for power at coil while cranking, it should be aprox. 150v + volts . IAC a diagram may clear things up for all viewing.

Product Font Rectangle Parallel Slope
 

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my question is the relay next to the fuel pump relay, is that the handbrake-side stand relay?
For more clarity, relay next to fuel pump is "handbrake safety relay" it only controls the power to starter relay, allows starter operation when either brake lever is pulled, if scooter cranks is good, it does not control power to coil.

BTW all 3 relays are same p/n. fuel pump, handbrake safety and sidestand. Are you getting fuel pressure is pump running when key is turned on ??
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
For more clarity, relay next to fuel pump is "handbrake safety relay" it only controls the power to starter relay, allows starter operation when either brake lever is pulled, if scooter cranks is good, it does not control power to coil.

BTW all 3 relays are same p/n. fuel pump, handbrake safety and sidestand. Are you getting fuel pressure is pump running when key is turned on ??
thanks,
just curious why the need for a relay on the handbrake?
 

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thanks,
just curious why the need for a relay on the handbrake?
When I say handbrake, I mean brake levers on handlebars(not the brake-lock lever for rear brake on dash panel), each lever has a switch to actuate "Safety Relay", relay is needed to prevent bike from starting unless either brake lever is applied/held firmly, this prevents bike from moving forward as it's automatic/always in gear, this is fairly basic safety feature, found in all scooters in my experience.

It's all fairly clear in diagram above on post # 5 !! (y)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
When I say handbrake, I mean brake levers on handlebars(not the brake-lock lever for rear brake on dash panel), each lever has a switch to actuate "Safety Relay", relay is needed to prevent bike from starting unless either brake lever is applied/held firmly, this prevents bike from moving forward as it's automatic/always in gear, this is fairly basic safety feature, found in all scooters in my experience.

It's all fairly clear in diagram above on post # 5 !! (y)
I see that's where I got confused.
about the electric diagram great thanks for that.
been trying to fix f1 butterfly constantly moving in the throttle body .
watched F1 light stva problem Fixed!C28 Mitch's scooter stuff.
i can't get it to stop moving , what do you think is wrong with it?
 

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I think i got it, had to adjust the throttle cable and play around with tps.
as for the spark, i believe the immobilizer is the cause
90% of all members do NOT have Immobilizer systems and that does not even enter my mind when thinking about troubleshooting, sorry.
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I'm a bit disappointed I can't work out the spark problem.
also, the secondary butterfly is doing the same thing as before so I'm back to square 1.
I have checked the resistance of the stator is in spec.
checked CKP is in spec.
the only thing I was worried about was i found 13v on coil both sides of the coil.
once I crank it voltage would drop to 10v
I always thought coil would need + and negative not just positive.
with all the checking and testing it's drained me out. is there a way to check or test ECM?
I have a feeling this could be the problem.
I get no codes but _c00
 

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If your coil is not seeing the ECM's ground you will have 12 volts on both sides. Its the same as if you have an old 'Points' ignition, if the points are open then there will be 9-12 volts on both sides of the coils + or - terminals. When the points close it is a ground.

Check the grounds continuity to the battery negative terminal.
 
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once I crank it voltage would drop to 10v
That's a big drop IMO. Usually a voltage under 11volts while cranking, will result in no spark. My old 99ZRX1100 would not spark while cranking if voltage dropped below 11.5 volts, engine would turnover/crank seemingly fine otherwise. Good batteries and trickle chargers were your friends 👍 You can try jumpstarting from a "Non- Running Car" battery, don't use a booster charger on any bike to start either. Bad things can happen to charging system 😖
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
If your coil is not seeing the ECM's ground you will have 12 volts on both sides. Its the same as if you have an old 'Points' ignition, if the points are open then there will be 9-12 volts on both sides of the coils + or - terminals. When the points close it is a ground.

Check the grounds continuity to the battery negative terminal.
ok so started checking all ground wires and I came across 1 plug that I missed cleaning.
how I missed that? I don't know
it was very corrosive white powder etc
so cleaned it out push the plug back in turnkey and NOTHING!
what hell happened i have no power bike dead LOL.
checked battery 13.5v check all fuses all good the started relay has power
what's going on now?
 

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Looks to be an earth to other components could be anything tail lights etc. If it is maybe you bent a pin so no earth to that component however if you had power before you reconnected it it can't be that you must have done something else. Check the fuses again using a voltmeter on continuity. If they are all OK look for something that you disturbed recently
 
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