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Discussion Starter #1
Any recommendations on a torque wrench to do oil changes on the Burg 400 and Burg 650? I won't be using it for anything else.

What about tire pressure gauges? I filled my Burg 400 with air at the gas station and it was tough getting that car air pressure thing to fit. I also had a hard time measuring the pressure with a standard gauge.

Do you oil clean out that CVT filter at 1800 miles? The dealer said to do it with another routine maintenance around 2,000 miles. That CVT filter wash is a huge pain in arse.

Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I found Joe's Tire Gauge on Amazon.com for $22 This had excellent reviews and shipping is free as I am a Prime Member.

I'll keep looking for a torque wrench.
 

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Don't need no stinkin' torque wrench for changing oil or filter!! Never used one in my life and I am still.....alive to tell the story..hahahahahahahaha...
 

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I have always just tightened it until my elbow 'clicks'! LOL
Seriously, you KNOW how much to tighten it without a torque wrench, just do it. Leave your breaker bar in the tool box, King Kong.
 

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Don't need no stinkin' torque wrench for changing oil or filter!! Never used one in my life and I am still.....alive to tell the story..hahahahahahahaha...
Been doing the same thing 50+years.
 

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From ledudes site, https://docs.google.com/document/d/...xMa7UsUXHXYQsb4/mobilebasic?pli=1&viewopt=127

I bought http://www.harborfreight.com/3-8-eighth-inch-drive-click-type-torque-wrench-807.html
And use it on my 650 and 400 but, like others have said I dont use it for oil plugs, do it till it feels tight, and then check after test ride.


For air consider changing the standard air valves with 90 degree angled Stem ones, there's a thread on here somewhere

Thank You. Did you change your air valves? Also, did you modify your stock suspension at all? My biggest criticism of the 400 is the suspension.
 

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CVT filter wash is a 10min job, but make sure it's dry before you put it back. No panels to remove just the filter cover and then the bolts that hold it in place. I also release the rear of the underside plastic tuperware too but no need to remove it. Just one tip. Don't mix up the bolts that hold the filter in place. If you do, you can damage the fins on the induction fan and that's expensive.
 

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How's that, are left and right not the same? :eek:
I'm talking about the bolts holding the actual filter to the housing and the filter cover to the transmission cover. These are at the top and bottom positions, 4 bolts, two different lengths by just some. Here's a piccy to help...

The threads are the same size etc but the lengths are slightly different enough to smash the cooling fins on the variator if you put them in wrong. I've had customers do it wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
CVT filter wash is a 10min job, but make sure it's dry before you put it back. No panels to remove just the filter cover and then the bolts that hold it in place. I also release the rear of the underside plastic tuperware too but no need to remove it. Just one tip. Don't mix up the bolts that hold the filter in place. If you do, you can damage the fins on the induction fan and that's expensive.


I thought I had to pull apart the lower plastic panel and the rubber foot stuff.
Mitch shows that in his video. Are you saying that on my 2012 400 it isn't necessary to do all that?

Do you pull up the black rubber material on the lower plastic tuperware? Do you pull it out completely then unscrew the underside tuperware?
 

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I'm talking about the bolts holding the actual filter to the housing and the filter cover to the transmission cover.
Oh, yeah -- those are tricky. However that's already about mixing up different parts, and it can happen mostly due to sheer carelessness.
 

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I thought I had to pull apart the lower plastic panel and the rubber foot stuff.
Mitch shows that in his video. Are you saying that on my 2012 400 it isn't necessary to do all that?

Do you pull up the black rubber material on the lower plastic tuperware? Do you pull it out completely then unscrew the underside tuperware?
Hi maniac (has a nice sound to it! lol), all you need do is remove the floor rubber mat which just lifts up (no fixings holding it), and then the plastic rivets and plastic screw fixings holding the shiny painted tupperware to the floor panel. Release the same panel from the black plastic underbelly shield. Bend down and take a look, you'll see the fixings. But you don't need to fully release/remove those panels, just remove the fixings from the middle of the bike rearwards so you can gently pull the tupperware outwards to get to the area you need to work on. It's easy and once you've done it, it takes no time at all. Take care when releasing the plastic brackets of the tupperware as although they are quite tough, they can be broken by inappropriate pulling. There is one clip in particular that requires careful sliding out and needs pulling down with a finger as you pull the panel outwards. You'll soon find it when you realise the panel won't come free.
 

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I cleaned the filter after learning about it yesterday. When I checked the 2 filter bolts, they were exactly the same length on my 2011. Btw, it was filthy with 5300 miles on it.
I decided to check the air filter too. Sticker shock! Retail on that thing was $54.00 I can buy it for $43 and a K&N for $49. I ordered the K&N, normally I don't like them, but the stupid price of the air cleaner makes the choice pretty easy. I'm not looking forward to the install fight with the lid. It was a pita with the stock filter, I got my heat gun ready to soften the rubber on the K&N.
 

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Topless, yes the two filter bolts are the same length. It's the other two bolts holding the filter cover to the transmission cover you need to watch out for. I've had people confuse the two and smash the variator fins. It's an easy mistake to make if you don't pay attention to what you are doing as the filter retaining holes and cover holes are all next to each other. Two top and two bottom.
 
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