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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, I know its broken or something because there is no resistance when I turn the key to pop the seat.

How can I get in?

Seems I need to get in to fix it, but I need it working to get in......

I cant even remove the body panels without getting the seat up :(

Don't want to bust stuff......

I have a lot more time than $$$$

I found a bolt on the ground where I park it, looked like an M10x25mm don't know if it even came from the bike.....
 
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You can remove the body work from the seat forward without having to remove the seat.

Remove the front bodywork so you can get to the back of the ignition switch where the cable attaches to it. Look to see if the cable is still attached to the switch. If not catch it with a pair of pliers and pull on it. That should release your seat.

If it is still attached to the ignition switch pull on it and see if you can pull it out of the sheathing. If so it is broken somewhere along the length. Pull it all the way out to determine how far down it is broken. Now find the cable where it runs along the frame under the floorboards. Grab the sheathing with a pair of pliers past where the cable is broken. Squeeze had enough to trap the cable inside the sheathing and then pull on it. That should release the seat. If not cut the sheathing so you can get a good hold on the cable and pull on it.

If the cable has just come unattached from the ignition switch you may be able to reattach it depending on why it became unattached. If it is broken you are going to have to remove a bunch of bodywork to route a new one.
 

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Don't have time to research this on BUSA, but I've read about this before (gotta get to work), but the release cable runs right under center hump maintenance access panel. Just remove it, find the cable and pull on it... As I remember. But look it up, search for Locked key in trunk or something. Gotta go.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I removed the center hump cover last night, I can feel the cable inside moving when I turn the key.

I think the problem may be right at the seat latch......
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I did a bunch of searching last night, most of what I found either said use a pry bar or was for a 400 that has different body panels.

the pull the cable housing is the most likely option thanx Buffalo.
But as I said, I have a feeling its broken right at the latch under the seat. but here is hoping. will do some work tonight, but cant do a full tear into it till Thursday after work.
I can still commute with it :) I was lucky and did not have my helmet in there at the time.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
ya Penforhire, I have been doing that most of the time, but I can feel in the key that all resistance is gone, its not pulling the latch under the seat at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Got it, cable was broke about 20cm in from seat latch. used a garden utensil weed puller to flip latch from under the center frame cover :)

broke one plastic pin is all, and sheered off the hooks on the lower cover, that I always do on the left side as its freaky stiff there.
ah well, glued back on with some acetone for the 4th time :)

now for the 4 week wait for a cable......

I think I will try to make a new inner cable for it from MTB brake cables.
I have soldered ends on b4 and the housing is in perfect shape.....
 

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I suggest you add an emergency release pull to the latch. Loop a piece of wire or line around the arm on the latch and feed it down behind the plastic to where you can reach it from the bottom. That way if your cable ever breaks again you can just pull on it to release the latch.

It will also serve to work the latch until your new cable comes in.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I suggest you add an emergency release pull to the latch. Loop a piece of wire or line around the arm on the latch and feed it down behind the plastic to where you can reach it from the bottom. That way if your cable ever breaks again you can just pull on it to release the latch.

It will also serve to work the latch until your new cable comes in.
ya I did that, and its going to stay :)

for now as I have Tupperware issues I am riding with my back end naked.
surprisingly refreshing.....
 

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for now as I have Tupperware issues I am riding with my back end naked. surprisingly refreshing.....
Yah there's a visual I didn't need. :rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Ok, in the end since there was a long wait for a 55$ + Tax +3 week wait cable and ordering in from out of the Country was even more$ and still 2 weeks.
I decided to go repair route.

pulled off all the Tupperware (big job if you haven't done this b4 but will be easy next time around) pulled both ends of the outer cable outside the bike, removed all the bits of old inner, used a MTB shifter cable cut to length and soldered on new ends.
All done in one day, works perfect.
 

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Good deal. Hope you don't have any more problems with it.

At least now you know how to pull the bodywork off. I've done it a number of times now and you are right it gets easier each time.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I have however come to the conclusion that anytime you take a bike apart they spontaneously 'birth' new small bits that are leftover on reassembly.....

I have these two Philips head m6 2cm bolts I have no idea where they came from????

cant find any holes anywhere.......
 
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I would say look inside the glove box but the two inside mine have hex bit heads not Philips heads.

First time I stripped the bodywork off my 400 I ended up with 2 screws and a push pin left over. I had to strip almost everything off again before I found where I had left them out.
 
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