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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Good day. I recently purchesed a Burgman 650 (2006) with 42 000 km on the clock. The total concept new to me but I fell in love from the first turn of the throtle. being it a private deal, I took it to a non Suzuki dealer bike workshop for a complete service. As I experienced a slight delay in changing to 3rd - in auto and manual - the CVT stopper bolt was replaced -on advice from Suzuki. The old bolt - still the original one - was in prety bad shape. So much so that it might hf been in a state of total failure to the works of the primary pulley of the CVT.
However,the bike performed exelent and the following day I took on a weekend trip of +- 140 km one way. Uppon my return I started hearing metal like noises when ideling. Uppon closer inspection I discovered the primary driven gear connecter bolt (the long one) to have worked is way threw its cover plat - onlefthand side of machine.
Whith opening it up it was discovered that the bolt has broken off - right where it screwed into the pulley shaft. The stub was removed and after cleaning all debry out, a new bolt was fitted - an ordinary high tensile machine bolt. In no time - less than 100 Km this bolt also broke off. By that tme I received the new Suzuki bolt which was then fitted and torqued to the prescribed 55 Nm. Needless to say - in less than 60 Km this one also broke off.
Big question is - what could be the cause for this? Could it be because of damge caused to the CVT - due to possible failure of the old stopper bolt? Anny suggestions in sorting this problem will b appreciated. Regards, Top Gun, Cape Town
 

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Re: BROKEN BOLT - BETWEEN PRIMARY DRIVEN GEAR & PRIMARY PULE

I would suspect that the bearing on the input shaft is bad or the o'ring under the shim on the outside case half is bad. Either would let the primary pulley move laterally inside the case and stress the bolt. The damaged stopper bolt is also an indication of this. The only way to find out what is going on is to pull the CVT out and take it apart.

If you have general mechanical ability that is not a hard job but it is a big one. I posted step by step photos of what I went through to pull mine out to change the belt in this thread viewtopic.php?p=503179#p503179. LeDude posted the same when he rebuilt his in this thread but he included videos viewtopic.php?f=4&t=57574.
 

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Re: BROKEN BOLT - BETWEEN PRIMARY DRIVEN GEAR & PRIMARY PULE

BTW, LeDudes bike is an 04 model and it has a different primary pulley adapter and bolt than your 06 so don't let that throw you if you look at his thread. The bolt on his is much shorter. Other than that most everything else about the CVT is the same. My 07 has the same type adapter and bolt as yours does.
 

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Re: BROKEN BOLT - BETWEEN PRIMARY DRIVEN GEAR & PRIMARY PULE

Hi Buffalo, thanks for the quick response. I am considering doing the job - together with a very technical minded family member. How / where do I shop the necessary replacement parts? Would like to buy online if possible. I am based in Cape Town, RSA. Regards, Top Gun
 

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Re: BROKEN BOLT - BETWEEN PRIMARY DRIVEN GEAR & PRIMARY PULE

If you click on the Knowledgebase link at the top of the page you can find a link to OEM Parts Fiche. There you will find a bunch of places that sell parts online in the USA. Whether or not any of them will ship to Cape Town or not I can't tell you.
 

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Re: BROKEN BOLT - BETWEEN PRIMARY DRIVEN GEAR & PRIMARY PULE

You can also go to a Suzuki Dealer to get parts if you have one local to you. The prices very well might be a little higher but they should be able to source all of them for you.

Good luck on your transmission. While I can't speak from personal experience about the transmission repair it looks to be fairly straightforward but time consuming. You will save a boat load of money by doing it yourself.
 

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Re: BROKEN BOLT - BETWEEN PRIMARY DRIVEN GEAR & PRIMARY PULE

It is a lot bigger and harder job than you ever imagined and the parts may cost upwards of $1,500 dollars US. I had one with a similar problem and never could get it right. I traded it in for a new 650 Exec with a 5 year power train warranty. Problem solved and if the transmission breaks, Suzuki gets to buy me a new one.
 

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Re: BROKEN BOLT - BETWEEN PRIMARY DRIVEN GEAR & PRIMARY PULE

Good day "fotodoktor", what was the history leading to the problem you experienced - leading to the bolt to break? I woul like to get muchas posible information in this regard. Are there anybody else out there how experienced this bolt in particular to break? this is the LONG bolt between the primary driven gear and the primary puley shaft - (in CVT).
 

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PPS Bolt

The exact same thing happened to me. I bought an 06 with 19,000 miles on it. The bike would not shift in auto mode but I could shift it in manual mode. I bought it that way not knowing the complexity of the transmission or anything about a stop bolt. After I bought it, I got on the forum and inquired about the problem. I decided to replace the stop bolt and the bike shifted in auto mode so I took it around close to the house for about 5 miles to make sure it was good. No problems. I took it on a 20 mile road trip and started hearing metal on metal noise so I started back to the house.

The bike died on me about 15 miles from the house. Called a friend and my son to come out and help me get it home. I decided, **** this is no big deal to get the tranny out and repair it. You have to completely disassemble the bike to get to the transmission out. I did that, bought a used tranny from pinwall cycle parts in Ohio and put it on. It too failed. That is when I decided that I was going to buy a new one.

I bought a new 650 Exec with a five year extended warranty. If it breaks now, Suzuki gets to fix it.

I am not a bad mechanic as I worked in bank equipment, atm's, alarm systems and video systems. Before that, I worked on microfilm printers, processors, cameras and duplicators.

The job was a bitch and I'll never do it again.
 

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I have the same problem on my 2007 Burgman 650. It is in the dealer's shop now. The long bolt broke off and they say because the engine or CVT or whatever needs to be removed to fix it, the cost will be like $1,200 total. I have minimal mechanical skills and have few tools, so I'm thinking of just seeing if I can trade it in with this dealer on a newer machine. I'm concerned that if I pay all that to repair it, the same thing could happen again, and other things will start to go wrong on this 7 year old scooter. Any thoughts? Thanks - Dave in Fredericksburg, VA
 
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