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Discussion Starter #1
Last summer, my local dealer fixed a starter problem on my 2008 Burgman 400. 2 miles and 5 minutes later I couldn't start up my scooter. Noticed that the rear brake lever wasn't turning on the brake light. Luckily, the front brake did allow starting, and brought it back to the shop. They replaced both brake switches with ones from a new 2011 (or 2012?) bike they had on the floor. The rear brake still didn't turn the light on with the new switch, but I had my front brake work-around. (I always use both brakes, btw.)

Now the front brake is doing the same thing. Argh!

What's going on here? Do I need yet another set of switches? It seems like something else needs to be done as a straight switch replacement didn't solve this problem last year.
 

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Like all devices these things can fail and we have had reports of failure in the past but to be honest not many and certainly not significant in the context of the number of deployed units.

I would strongly suspect the switches on your rear brake may be victim to a wiring issue. Strange the mechanic did not follow through on that when he replaced with that unit from the floor without a result.

You have confirmed that you have a functional bulb on that side?
 

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definitely need to check the wiring. As Norman stated, odd that mechanic didn't question it after he replaced it and it still didn't work right.

I have replaced my starter before, and know your not really messing with any real wiring to get to it and remove it, so not sure if there would be any correlation between them replacing starter, and the brake switches.

Think this is going to have to boil down to getting a meter on the wires and tracing to figure out why the break could be at.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Like all devices these things can fail and we have had reports of failure in the past but to be honest not many and certainly not significant in the context of the number of deployed units.

I would strongly suspect the switches on your rear brake may be victim to a wiring issue. Strange the mechanic did not follow through on that when he replaced with that unit from the floor without a result.
The dealer's mechanic didn't seem comfortable working on the bike - was barely aware of many aspects of it, and it was well beyond closing time for the shop. Once he replaced the switches, I decided to cut my losses and leave.

What would a wiring issue look like? I'm a novice with a meter, but at least I have one and I also have the service manual.

You have confirmed that you have a functional bulb on that side?
Bulb appears fine. When the scooter does start with the front brake lever, the rear light does come on.
 

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The switches themselves are very easy to change. They are just held on by one screw. You take out that screw and unplug the wire from the switch. This link will take you to the fiche for the brake levers. You can see the switch on it and how it is attached to the lever with a single screw. It is item 6 on the fiche. http://www.ronayers.com/HANDLE-LEVER-C284199.aspx

A quick way to see if the problem is the switch or wiring somewhere else on the bike is to unplug the wire from the switch then use a piece of wire to jumper between the two pins in the plug on the end of the wire that was plugged into the switch. Then turn the key on and see if the brake lights come on. If they do then the switch is bad. If they don't then you have a wiring problem.
 

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Mmmmm

There may be a clue here the rear light should work with the key in the start position and the starter switch not made. Indeed if you then pull a brake handle both rear brake lamps should illuminate in addition.

So if the rear lights only come on once the engine is running then that is odd and dysfunctional and may provide a further clue that something is amiss.

However before proceeding it may be wise to check that your observations and recall are in fact - 'fact' so that you can proceed on a sound basis.

No offence intended.
 

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Norman is right, you should have tail lights and the brake lights should work as long as the key is in the on position, whether the engine is running or not.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Mmmmm

There may be a clue here the rear light should work with the key in the start position and the starter switch not made. Indeed if you then pull a brake handle both rear brake lamps should illuminate in addition.

So if the rear lights only come on once the engine is running then that is odd and dysfunctional and may provide a further clue that something is amiss.

However before proceeding it may be wise to check that your observations and recall are in fact - 'fact' so that you can proceed on a sound basis.

No offence intended.
No worries. Ignition on lights up the rear tail light. Hit the front brake - sometimes the brake light comes on. And, when the brake light is on, the scooter starts.
 

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OK seems you now have all the necessary information to resolve your problem.:cool:
 

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One thing to look into is the wiring diagram/routing in the service manual. I checked mine, and the 2 sides interconnect to each other since they perform the same exact function (illuminate brake light and trigger the safety relay to allow scooter to start). This 'connection' should happen before the safety relay connection. Your problem with the rear brake switch will be somewhere between that connection point, and the switch itself.

If I had to guess, all these connections happen under the handlebar covers, probably as it goes down the forks, but don't hold me to that. It might be a matter of taking the handlebar cover off, holding the lever down, and fiddling with the wires to see if a particular spot illuminates brake lights (might need help to watch lights for you).

I'm not sure if these connections are a plug, or if its a splice inside the wire loom. Its possible if these 3 wires join together at one spot (rear switch, front switch, and wire connecting it to rest of system) it is breaking apart, with rear being completly broken off, and front kinda connected.

Also verify that when you pull the lever, you should here a small 'click' sound as the switch is depressed, simple yes, but possible

*My advise is just that, advise, I am not an certified mechanic, nor do I consider myself an expert, just my knowledge I've learned and figured out over the many years of working on my 400 personally
 

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Switches are cheap 'n' nasty microswitches. Another factor (not in their favour) is that they are open to the elements. In UK the switches are about £5.00 each, they aren't exclusive to Suzuki so no need to pay main dealer prices.
I took my faulty rear switch apart so see if there was anything that could be corrected. The problem appeared to be a contact points that weren't opening / closing. I keep a spare left / right switch in stock so I just replaced the broken one. (The switches are 'handed' so cant be interchanged). It takes more time finding a suitable screwdriver than the time to change the switches.

A regular spraying with WD40 on the switch may keep the moisture out.

Cheers,
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Should have followed up many months ago, but...

It turns out it was the switches on brake levers. They both weren't working. The new switches, off a new bike on their showroom floor, were swapped in and they worked no better than the one they replaced. I ordered new ones from a dealer via the internet:

Mfg Product Number: 57460-17C11
Description: SWITCH ASSY,STO () for 2008 SUZUKI AN400
Order Quantity: 1
Unit Price: $21.98

Mfg Product Number: 57560-14F11
Description: SWITCH ASSY,REA () for 2008 SUZUKI AN400
Order Quantity: 1
Unit Price: $21.98

Installed them a few months ago, and everything is fine. No starting issues and the brake lights go on with either lever.
 
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