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BOTH H4 & H7 QUIT AT THE SAME TIME

1131 Views 7 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  Hammer
When I switched on the Hi-Beam (H4) I noticed that the blue indicator dash light was not on. I checked the lights and found that neither were operating. When I got home I checked the fuse and found it to be ok. I began to change out the bulbs, as I had them and had scheduled them for replacement anyway but could not get the springy thing to cooperate so tomorrow I need to pull off the tupperware and get a good look at where that little notch is. I think that even after I replace the bulbs they are not going to work as something else is going on with them. Anyone had this problem or know what's wrong? The other lights are ok. It's just the Headlights. It is a K7. Thanks
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I'm banking on the starter switch contacts to be the culprit as that's the usual case for both to go out at once. A little electrical contact cleaner may free it up or a thorough cleaning may be in order. See here -> http://burgmanusa.com/bkb/400+b+Starter+Switch+Cleaning
Wow TechArtGuy. I had surely forgotten that there is a cutoff switch in there. With all of the outdoor exposure to rain and the elements over the winter, this is most probably the reason for the cutoff. I kinda hope that just spraying some contact spray along side of the switch helps because I'll probably never get those parts of the switch together again. :lol: :lol: Thanks TAG.
Welcome :thumbup:
What I found when my lights were out was that the copper bar wouldn't slide up and down freely and get stuck in the down position, the fix was to remove the copper bar and squeeze it together very gently, clean out the channel it rides in and re-assemble.


[attachment=0:3b4ehpi4]Starter Switch.jpg[/attachment:3b4ehpi4]

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It took all of 10 seconds to get the starter switched juiced up enough with contact spray to get the headlights back. Thanks again TAG. Unfortunately I had already started to replace the bulbs with Sylvania XtraVision bulbs and was trying to get the new bulb in but it just wasn't going to happen. I took off the Leg Shield and realized that the oem bulb had some kind of adapter fitted to it, unlike the new H7. Without the adapter/collar the spring thingy has no tension and fails to connect. I was loosing light so I just reassembled everything with the oem bulbs and am back to square one again. Also, the H7, which is the only one I fussed with, had prongs that were too close together to fit the female connector plug on the scoot. I don't even know what to get for a replacement except for oem bulbs which I was trying to replace with more candle power. What am I missing? :?
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InfernoST said:
What I found when my lights were out was that the copper bar wouldn't slide up and down freely and get stuck in the down position, the fix was to remove the copper bar and squeeze it together very gently, clean out the channel it rides in and re-assemble.


[attachment=0:2hgjiyfq]Starter Switch.jpg[/attachment:2hgjiyfq]

That is a good tip InfernoST. I'll keep it in mind for when I take the starter switch apart. Right now, the quick fix suits me just fine. Thanks :thumbup:
Just an update. The contact spray worked pretty good after a week. Washed the scoot and gave the switch another shot with it. Question, can I spray a bit of WD40 or something in there to smooth out the feel? After using the contact spray the feel of the starter switch is gritty when depressing. I also was able to get the Sylvania bulbs in after realizing that the H7 adapter came off of the H7 Bulb and was able to be fitted to the Sylvania bulb easily. DUUUUHH! :roll: The H4 doesn't use an adapter so it just went right in. :)
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