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Your regs will probably say that wheels cannot extend beyond bodywork - so basically you need some sort of wheel covering even if it’s only cycle mudguard/hugger style.
Check because I haven’t stayed up to date on US regs and one-offs regs may be different to production regs in your state.

Wheels have 2 aero shadows, one as you’d expect behind the wheel which might benefit from a teardrop tail, another because they spin disturbing flow across the sides (or the top is travelling forward faster than the bottom depending on which way you want to look at it) creating extra vertices and disturbance - enclosing them can help with that but that is approaching diminishing returns territory. Up to you.

Weirdly, early “streamlined” body vehicles had worse drag than the “front outrigger” ones because the flow between outrigger and narrow radiator offered less resistance.

There are EV and hyper miler forums/groups that help each and share plans or pitfalls and tips.
Smoothing looks pretty good with what you have.
 

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If you were to go to that reverse trike forum and follow two real good builds they can answer many questions.


Liteway and Captian America both have a lot of good information. And Cpt Am will give you his 'Solidworks' CAD files if you ask.

Here is Liteway's trike. There is a walk around vid too. Notice the front wheel aero pods.

Liteway1.jpg

 

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You can go to any large Thrift Store like Habitat for Humanity and buy a used wall oven. You remove the door and then build a big box in front big enough to fit large parts like fenders or hoods. The insides are heat proof cement board then 6 inches of R21 and sheetrock on the outsides. You only need 150 to 200 Degrees F.
Then learn how to mould up glass over foam from Robert Q Riley's Trimutter's pages. Then using Carbon Fiber cloth, resin, the moulds, some vacuum and this oven you can make any part from Carbon Fiber.
 
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Discussion Starter #45

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I know this is a Burgman forum. But you said you did not want to do a Goldwing engine. You can get GL1100 and GL1200 bikes cheap. Yes, as made, they only get 35 MPG but they are 1970's tech and they weigh 900 pounds.

  1. Rip the factory Stator charging system out and replace with a GM 1 wire Alternator run off the front crank.
  2. Rip off the 4 carbrators and ether run a single Weber 2 bbl or wire up a MicroSquirt fuel injection and 2 Burgman 650 throttle bodys.
  3. Ax the ignition and use the MicroSquirt's Crank trigger ignition with 4 coil over plug.
  4. MicroSquirt or MegaSquirt can be data logged and download injection and timing MAP files to tune.
  5. Make a 'Tri-Y' headder. Copy the pancake Subaru's 4 into 2 into 1 design for more low end torque.
  6. Swingarm and the rear differential can be modified. You can have a wider and taller mag made to fit in the 'UniStar' Goldwing wheels hub. Factory wheel is rivited in.
Just saying. I'd bet it would go from 35 MPG to 45 or 50 MPG if done right. I do not think you would need to down shift for any hills with this much low RPM torque.
 

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Discussion Starter #47
If you were to go to that reverse trike forum and follow two real good builds they can answer many questions.


Liteway and Captian America both have a lot of good information. And Cpt Am will give you his 'Solidworks' CAD files if you ask.

Here is Liteway's trike. There is a walk around vid too. Notice the front wheel aero pods.

View attachment 91746

Is Captain America in this group or the other ? Solidworks would be fantastic...
'
 

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Discussion Starter #48
You can go to any large Thrift Store like Habitat for Humanity and buy a used wall oven. You remove the door and then build a big box in front big enough to fit large parts like fenders or hoods. The insides are heat proof cement board then 6 inches of R21 and sheetrock on the outsides. You only need 150 to 200 Degrees F.
Then learn how to mould up glass over foam from Robert Q Riley's Trimutter's pages. Then using Carbon Fiber cloth, resin, the moulds, some vacuum and this oven you can make any part from Carbon Fiber.
I've considered using Robert Q. Riley's knowledge in that regard.
 
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Discussion Starter #49
If you were to go to that reverse trike forum and follow two real good builds they can answer many questions.


Liteway and Captian America both have a lot of good information. And Cpt Am will give you his 'Solidworks' CAD files if you ask.

Here is Liteway's trike. There is a walk around vid too. Notice the front wheel aero pods.

View attachment 91746

The aero-pods look neat.
 

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Is Captain America in this group or the other ? Solidworks would be fantastic...
'
No Captain America is not. But here is a link to his build. Andrew is a very good designer.

 
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This is not a trike but it shows how far you can go on streamlining. Al Teague had been a leader in land speed racing. He uses blown Hemi's to go real fast. 409.8 MPH in 1991.

Al Teague 1.jpg
 
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Discussion Starter #52
This is not a trike but it shows how far you can go on streamlining. Al Teague had been a leader in land speed racing. He uses blown Hemi's to go real fast. 409.8 MPH in 1991.

View attachment 91749
I used LSR's to give me a basic shape of the trike......It has gone through many a transition from a just drive around trike to this odyssey.... Those driver are beyond brave. I started following Speed Records back in the day of Bluebird, Spirit of America and the flying Caduceus...
 
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:cry: She was posthumously awarded the female land-speed world record by Guinness in June 2020
jessi-combs.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #54
:cry: She was posthumously awarded the female land-speed world record by Guinness in June 2020
View attachment 91758
She was a lot braver than I could ever be..... at least she was doing what she wanted to when she was taken. I wonder what she could have done with Craig Breedlove's last challenger?
 
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(Admin copied post to here to show AN400 gear ratios)

Suzuki engineers did a fine job of tuning the 400's CVT in factory configuration.

FWIW, my stock rollers were in excellent shape when I replaced the belt at 14,500 miles. Could have just cleaned and reinstalled them. I put the sliders in primarily for the increased variator range...just wish I would have went with lighter weight.


Also, remember Suzuki changed the final drive gear ratio on Model Year 2010 to ?? (6.484) so they will run higher RPM (about 700) at highway speed (75) than the Model Year 2007-09 (5.904).

Anyway, there is a lot of information on CVT 'tuning' on these forums, just have to use the ole search. There's also a lot on YouTube for smaller displacement scooter CVTs...the principles are the same.
 

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Discussion Starter #56
Yes, the final drive gear is important to me.... especially if it's 700+ RPM! Thanks for the info.
 

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Discussion Starter #57
I was working on caucu-guessing what the CD might be for the Alfa 180... The Volkswagen L1 of about 20 years ago got amazing fuel mileage (150+ MPG) with 0.15 CD (the lowest I have ever seen for a real vehicle) so I decided to compare the L1 against the 180 size wise. Turns out that the L1 is approx. 3" taller but the 180 is 9" wider at the farthest point but looking at them both head on, the 180 is going to calculate out to roughly the same frontal area so I think the 180's CD should be below 0.20 and close to the 0.15 range (he said very hopefully).

VW L1 vrs Alfa 180A frontal area  09-14-2020.jpg
 
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Frontal aspect is important but be aware there is much more to total drag force: (aero) friction drag, wake drag etc).

Motorcycles have low frontal area, but massive drag.
Most people concentrate on parting air at the front but the key is closing it again at the rear.

A moving vehicle creates high pressure in front and low pressure behind so it is pushed/sucked backward. Punching a hole in the air cleanly and efficiently is relatively easy, closing it again behind you is harder, this is the big issue for road vehicles (Unlike aircraft).
Shape the vehicle to encourage the air to follow your form and for the form to close the hole behind you.

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Interference drag.
If you have outriggers, support strut or suspension sticking out from the main body - try to have them closer to 90 deg. than at sharp angles (viewed from the front). Sharp angles increase drag.
Common sense might tell you to keep everything close in to the body but this can lead to the sharp angles above and also 2 air flows mixing. This mixing causes interference drag (basically dirty airflow is bad).

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Skin friction
Make the body from something very smooth and easy to clean and scratch resistant that can make well fitting joints.
It might seem impossible but dirt can make anything from <1% to 8% difference in economy depending on the body form.

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air intake/exhaust
You probably already know but the vents on the roof of the VW L1 are exhaust ports - not air intakes. Take air in where pressure is high, take it out where pressure is low and flow is dirty. It not only helps drag it requires less effort and all your effort is coming from fuel.

PS. Technically “Parasite drag” is drag from body form, skin friction, joints etc - not drag from “parasites” like mirrors, though they are involved.
Its a small distinction but if you are going to be talking to dynamicists it’s important.
Its more of an aircraft term (drag not produced by causing flight), sorry if that caused confusion, I should have said it in a less confusing way.
 

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Try to keep projections and cavities to minimum on the underside.
Be aware that with rear engined bodies like this it’s possible to create a low pressure engine bay cavity that sucks up anything on the road and deposits it on your engine and transaxle making a real mess.
 

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i might suggest a roll cage capable of supporting an 80,000 lb 75 mph impact.
Design it so that it will engage a rear bumper located at DOT-spec height (and assume it's raised a bit from the struck vehicle braking and nosing down) and transmit the impact load aft. The engagement face can be completely inside the body shell. That is, your "front bumper" doesn't have to stick out. Just sacrifice the front part of your vehicle up to that point.

You want to stop the vehicle from "submarining" completely under a car it strikes from the rear (trike has to stop before your head hits their rear bumper from underneath). You might want to consider having the structure above your legs hardened to prevent crushing, while having the impact-absorption happen above that zone, possibly by converting impact energy into lifting the struck vehicle as though the front end of the trike was a splitting maul. This is the mirror image of how the old VW Vanagons handled front impact: they had the bumper and front subframe crush back to the front axle, while the passenger compartment rode up and over the trunk/hood of the struck vehicle. So instead of riding over the struck vehicle, you're trying to force it off the ground.
 
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