[Jok]

My Burgman 650, 2007 with 51,000 miles on the clock seems to have developed a problem.
It had a leak in the radiator, which I have now fixed, but the bike was off the road and on the ramp for several weeks.
Now, it runs and drives, but when I went to start it after a short distance the clutch is seeming to engage at tickover and it is 'juddering' forward
and making a loud nasty screeching noise, it is intermittent and the bike seems to want to go forward ok also it seems I can hear the transmission
trying to change gear or selecting something while it is stationary, although I am not pressing any controls etc.
Also, strangely, the rev counter bar display is intermittently blinking on and off, maybe something to do with the fault, but never used to do it before.
All the rest of the displays are perfect and there are no warning lights or fault indications.
I may well take it out for a run to see if it 'blows away the cobwebs' but I don't want it to expire and leave me stranded!

Does anyone have any idea what might be going on?
Thank you for any help
BTW It had a replacement belt under 10k ago.

 

[maccecht]

First thing check your brakes aren't seized. Salt on the roads etc will have got behind the dust seals and expanded them. When the bike starts it will want to turn the rear wheeel until the oil warms up. See if both wheels turn freely. Lift the front wheel with a scissors jack under the exhaust where it goes from 2 into 1. I would also check the primary pulley bolt is still nice and tight, one assumes all the fluids are changed regularly?

 

[mikeyMarine]

with no fault codes, you sre kinda up a tree without a paddle, I bleve if it were mine I would start with fixin the rev counter as it could be sendin a signal to the ecu to change gears and do other weird things, I didn't quite understand the runs a drives thing, runs, engine runs? drives, rolls around under it's own power? but when I went to start it after a short distance .... did it do ok then you turned it off start it again and it messed up?
normally if I work on something, and a new problem develo[ps it's because I worked on somethijhg, you were poking around at the radiator area, any possibility you bumped a plug wire , or disconnected something up there ?

 

[edorfox]

Well, as the Jarhead said, check anything in the vicinity of the radiator repair. As a retired "flyboy" (jet engine mechanic)...we had a saying, "The first thing to go wrong will be related to or even the last thing you fixed".
I would also be certain the battery is 100% and double check all ground points...a not so good ground can cause issues.
I've never experienced your issues so, just my two cents.
Ed

 

[Jok]

First thing check your brakes aren't seized. Salt on the roads etc will have got behind the dust seals and expanded them. When the bike starts it will want to turn the rear wheeel until the oil warms up. See if both wheels turn freely. Lift the front wheel with a scissors jack under the exhaust where it goes from 2 into 1. I would also check the primary pulley bolt is still nice and tight, one assumes all the fluids are changed regularly?

Wheels turn freely, although that wouldn't make any difference as when I start it both wheels are on the ground anyway and the bike wants to creep and judder forward. All fluids and filters are regularly replaced and everything is tight. I did replace the battery when I sent the radiator to get repaired though, which I forgot to mention, terminals are tight. I will take it out for a run tomorrow and see if it clears itself. Thank you for help

 

[Jok]

Well, as the Jarhead said, check anything in the vicinity of the radiator repair. As a retired "flyboy" (jet engine mechanic)...we had a saying, "The first thing to go wrong will be related to or even the last thing you fixed".
I would also be certain the battery is 100% and double check all ground points...a not so good ground can cause issues.
I've never experienced your issues so, just my two cents.
Ed

Yeah, I forgot to say I changed the battery when the radiator was out, but the terminals are tight. I agree with you if something suddenly goes wrong it more than likely is something I may have touched/disturbed, the bike seems to run and pull away ok, so I will take it out tomorrow and see if it sorts itself out, thanks for your help.

 

[bcoil]

The clutch is non-electric, so an engaging or shuddering at idle is not related to the electronics. There are several bearings inside the CVT that are in constant motion when the engine is running, whether you are going forward or not, so any sounds you hear in that area would be mechanical, not electronic. While continuing to look, for electrical issues, I would take off the right side lower leg panel and use a mechanics stethoscope, or long screw driver against your ear, to listen to sounds from the CVT by touching the case in various places while idling. Smooth bearings emit a constant sound, but ones going bad make a very uneven sound, like a cart with iron wheels being pulled over gravel instead of concrete.
If you end up pulling the CVT for bearings, they are fairly standard as well as the seals, except for the ones inside the Primary Pulley Assembly. If the PPA has play so that one half rotates a little forward and backward independent of the other half, or makes any any noise when spinning, then a good overhaul would include bearings, seals, belt and new PPA. Repairing a PPA is an uncertain activity. If the primary pulley position sensor gives erratic resistance readings when checking it, then it should be replaced. I'm not trying to scare you, but if someone tells you a repair could need anywhere from $600 to $2000 in parts, that is realistic.

 

[mikeyMarine]

welp, last post by op was feb 24, it's noe march somethingorother and the sun is over the yardstick, he's had time to check it an have a refreshin beverage an get back to us, so I guess it's fixed?? an we'll never know what fixed it.

 

[Jok]

I'm still here! The scoot is still on the ramp, haven't got round to doing anything with it yet, been busy and I have another bike I use daily. That was an interesting post by bcoil and if it is indeed bearings in the CVT I really don't know if I'm going to go any further with it and take the motor out the frame to fix it, going to have a think about that. I do have the means to do it a garage and tools etc but I'm thinking of getting a new Honda NC750x DCT soon so... I'll take it out again this weekend and see what it's like, but it sounds like it could be as bcoil said about bearings in the CVT. I will get back to you, cheers.

 

[Jok]

Thank you, very helpful.

 

[cooperman]

Good luck Jok, hope it is something simple. Strange that the fault should appear after just being stood for a few weeks so chances are it's not too serious.

 

[mikeyMarine]

I'm still here! The scoot is still on the ramp, haven't got round to doing anything with it yet, been busy and I have another bike I use daily. That was an interesting post by bcoil and if it is indeed bearings in the CVT I really don't know if I'm going to go any further with it and take the motor out the frame to fix it, going to have a think about that. I do have the means to do it a garage and tools etc but I'm thinking of getting a new Honda NC750x DCT soon so... I'll take it out again this weekend and see what it's like, but it sounds like it could be as bcoil said about bearings in the CVT. I will get back to you, cheers.

honda dct's are rough as a rusty corn cob on a hot hemmoroid in first and second gear, they ain't real confident in their product , the warranty is short as a snails di-fingernail. i bought the 1100 dct, yuk, it's for sale.

 

[Jok]

Good luck Jok, hope it is something simple. Strange that the fault should appear after just being stood for a few weeks so chances are it's not too serious.

Thanks, but I've had the thing apart so many times now for various problems since I bought it last year I'm kinda sick of it now, it's great when it runs but has left me stranded a few times and I've maybe come to the end if it's the transmission, really don't want to completely strip it and take the engine and transmission out!

 

[Jok]

honda dct's are rough as a rusty corn cob on a hot hemmoroid in first and second gear, they ain't real confident in their product , the warranty is short as a snails di-fingernail. i bought the 1100 dct, yuk, it's for sale.

I've yet to get a test ride on one, but the reviews are good, I currently own an older Transalp.

 

[Jok]

Ok I've uploaded a short vid of the noise and as you can see the rev counter has stopped working too, it is warmed up and does seem to pull away ok, but I'm not taking it out on the road sounding like this! Burgman 650

 

[Charbroil]

The clutch itself, is not electric, and engages from centrifugal force, from its rpm’s.
It can however be engaged electrically, from an engine idle, because the clutch is on the CVT’s secondary side, with it’s rpm’s being the result of engine rpm’s X CVT pulley’s ratio at that moment. This means the electric CVT controller can intentionally cause the clutch to engage at idle rpm’s for hill coast control, or, mistakenly when there’s something flakey in the CVT control. Normally at idle, the CVT is at the ratio, that results in the slowest secondary speed.

 

[Jok]

Well, I took it out for a short run yesterday and at first it seemed fine until I got on up to about 25-30 mph and it suddenly seemed to lose all drive and the revs shot up, I thought the belt had snapped! As it coasted down I opened the throttle again and it did indeed still have drive but only in first gear. It seems it had changed it's self down in to first as I was travelling much beyond that ratio. I had stopped it, but got back on and to get home selected manual gears and in this state it seems to run fine, up and down the gears no problem and when it is stationary and ticking over no screeching or grinding noises and it pulls away perfectly. Any ideas, could this be the CVT controller? Oh and the rev counter is still not working. No warnings or error codes.

 

[Jok]

Oh and the speedometer is not working too, stays at 00

 

[mikeyMarine]

an where maybe does the ecu get it's info from to do the geary thing? the speedo system maybe? or wind speed over the seat?

 

[Jok]

an where maybe does the ecu get it's info from to do the geary thing? the speedo system maybe? or wind speed over the seat?

So, I'll have to figure why the Tach and speedo aren't working, but I doubt that is all of the problems, getting close to binning it TBH, I have other bikes/problems and it's taking up a lot of space, it's a shame as I really like it, but I've spent a lot of time and money on it in the last 2 years and only done about 3 thousand miles on it, it's been problem after problem. I'm not going to drop the motor and transmission and piss about with the CVT.