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Discussion Starter #1
Having and issue that seems to be getting progressively worse.
My bike is an 08 400 with 13,400 miles. In the past it had occasionally stalled out on me when I come to a stop, but it was that frequent. Now it does it almost all the time. I watch the RPM’s and when I initially come to a stop its reading a shade below the 2,000 mark….then it drops and the bike stalls out.
My gas mileage also has taken a dive, don’t know if its related. Last year I typically got 56-57 mpg….(Im not a little guy…300+ a little more ;-)) now I’m getting 52.5 mpg.I had changed the plug and the air filter at about 11,000 miles.

I’m sure it could be a number of things but I’d like to hear from you folks the 2 or 3 things it most likely is.

Thanks.

Dan
 

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When did you check the valves last?
 

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Discussion Starter #3

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Here is that Recall info. I believe that your 2008 is included:

http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/owners/SearchResults?searchType=ID&targetCategory=R&searchCriteria.nhtsa_ids=11V108000&refurl=rss

http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/acms/cs/jaxrs/download/doc/acm16614413/rcrit-11v108-6909.pdf

For the 2008 AN400, the entire VIN range was included.

The part in question is the Rectifier Assembly, Suzuki part number 32800-05H20.

“Some rectifier assemblies installed on the affected models may have a condition which can cause the internal circuit board to fail in service due to excessive heat. Should this occur, insufficient charging current will be available to the battery. If the battery becomes excessively discharged, the engine may not be able to start, or may stall. Engine stalling while riding may increase the risk of a crash.”
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Here is that Recall info. I believe that your 2008 is included:

http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/owners/SearchResults?searchType=ID&targetCategory=R&searchCriteria.nhtsa_ids=11V108000&refurl=rss

http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/acms/cs/jaxrs/download/doc/acm16614413/rcrit-11v108-6909.pdf

For the 2008 AN400, the entire VIN range was included.

The part in question is the Rectifier Assembly, Suzuki part number 32800-05H20.

That's cool! Thanks very much. I tried contacting a few dealers today, but around here they all seem to be closed on Mondays. I'll try tomorrow
 

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Does it run fine until it gets warmed up and then start the stalling?
I'd bet the exhaust valves are tight due.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Does it run fine until it gets warmed up and then start the stalling?
I'd bet the exhaust valves are tight due.
Yes. When I first start it up it does not show signs of wanting to stall.
It happens when I'm coming to a red light or stop sign.
My dealer has ordered the recall part and now just waitng. Let's see if that fixes the issue.
Thanks for your input.
 

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I hope it does fix your problem but your due for a valve adjustment anyway. If the exhaust valves get tight they can overheat and you may end up doing a valve job.

I will tell you this bike is quite a job if they need adjustment, but checking them isn't bad at all. Mine needed needed adjustment at 15,000 and 30,000. I am approaching 45,000 now and starting notice I don't hear them anymore so I know they are getting tight again.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Here is that Recall info. I believe that your 2008 is included:

http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/owners/SearchResults?searchType=ID&targetCategory=R&searchCriteria.nhtsa_ids=11V108000&refurl=rss

http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/acms/cs/jaxrs/download/doc/acm16614413/rcrit-11v108-6909.pdf

For the 2008 AN400, the entire VIN range was included.

The part in question is the Rectifier Assembly, Suzuki part number 32800-05H20.
Ok gentlemen,
My bike has been in the shop for about a week as they were dealing with the above recalls. I was somewhat sure that the parts replaced were going to solve my stalling issue. I got a call today and the bike was ready! Yea!
Went to pick it up and drove it about 50 yds to the first traffic light.

Stalled out!!

Dang it. Brought it back

Any ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
bump...Any ideas?
 

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I think the manual calls for a valve check/adjustment at 14,500 but isn't it highly unusual for adjustment to be required at anywhere near this mileage?
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Ok..I appreciate the input, but all I can say to that is $$$$$ Cha Ching...That's money I don't have at the present time. I'm hoping for a simpler/cheaper solution, especially if I spend the money of the valve check and the bike still ends up stalling...In other words, that's a lot of money to risk without a sure solution to the problem
 

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I don't know for a fact but I thought the valve check was not a high dollar item. It they need to be shimmed then that might involve a little money but if the check indicates a need, it would be foolish to ignore.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I don't know for a fact but I thought the valve check was not a high dollar item. It they need to be shimmed then that might involve a little money but if the check indicates a need, it would be foolish to ignore.
I'm aware it needs to be done...I'm basing the cost on the amount of labor/time it would cost me to have the shop do it. I've watch Mic's video's on doing the job and honestly, it seems more than I can handle myself.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The shop wants $100 for the time it takes them to diagnose what's causing the problem,
I would hate to have them say “You’re due for a valve job” Then take my $100

What I’m trying find out from the forum here is what are any other likely causes?

If the valves were not set right would that cause the bike to stall like I am describing?

Because if that’s the case, then Im thinking to save the $100 diagnoses fee and just tell them to do the valve job.

Btw, has anyone tried to tackle a valve check on their own never having done it before and just by watching mic's video? Just wondering

To me it seems like a fuel issue. The fuel somehow is not getting to the cylinder But Im no expert
 

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The shop wants $100 for the time it takes them to diagnose what's causing the problem,
I would hate to have them say “You’re due for a valve job” Then take my $100

I'm in the same boat, not bad like yours though. Mines running good, but not the best. I want to check my valves soon.

One thing you might consider.... most of the labor is for removing the plastic. My local shop told me the check was nothing, it was getting to it that's the issue. You may consider removing the plastics yourself, and letting them do the check.


Have you tried replacing the plug? Cheap thing to check..
 

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Monitor the system voltage at the "cigar lighter" power port, see if it drops off just before the engine stalls. Do not check it at the battery, you want to know how much the voltage is after the main fuse and power connector...
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Monitor the system voltage at the "cigar lighter" power port, see if it drops off just before the engine stalls. Do not check it at the battery, you want to know how much the voltage is after the main fuse and power connector...
Hmmmm if only I had the right gizmo to do that.

Xring...I like your idea...and yes I recently changed the plug
 

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Hmmmm if only I had the right gizmo to do that.<snip>
$5.99 at Harbor Freight--sometimes just $2.99, or even free, with a coupon:



You can also measure the voltage between the positive battery terminal (the red probe) and the positive point in the cigar lighter socket (the black probe)--that will tell you the volatge drop between the battery post and the system power trunk...
 

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Discussion Starter #20
$5.99 at Harbor Freight--sometimes just $2.99, or even free, with a coupon:



You can also measure the voltage between the positive battery terminal (the red probe) and the positive point in the cigar lighter socket (the black probe)--that will tell you the volatge drop between the battery post and the system power trunk...
Thank you cliff seems easy enough
 
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