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Hey Guys

I would like some input here. Someone on another forum suggested that if you use really good oil and change it often (don't know how often "often" is) that you don't have to bother checking your valve adjustment nearly as much. Says that he has 70K on his '07 650 and because he uses a good oil that he has not needed to get his valves adjusted or even checked.

I am not a mechanical or petroleum engineer but this is something that I have never heard anyone claim before.

Your thoughts? :confused:
 

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How could anyone possibly know that they don't need to be adjusted if they've never been checked?

I believe that using good oil is a good idea, but that doesn't mean you can ignore a maintenance schedule.
 

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Better oil means less valve wear..................Sounds like a snake oil salesman pitch to me. I am a mechanic & yes good grade oil helps the life of any engine. As Dflowe stated it doesn't mean you can ignore a maintenance schedule. ;)
 

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Most that have had to adjust the clearance on their valves have found the gap has closed due to wear of the seats. Oil does not get to the gap between the valves and the seat so I don't think the type of oil or frequency of changes would make much difference.

Now if the gap were opening because of wear on the cam lobes or bearings or the bucket surfaces then they might be able to make a case.

For the record, my bike was over 70,000 miles before I had to make the first adjustment and that was because the gap was closed up to minimum.
 

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How could anyone possibly know that they don't need to be adjusted if they've never been checked?
If the gap were opening up you would know it because the valves would get noisy. If on the other hand it were closing up they would not get noisy. You would find out when you burnt a valve because the valve was not completely sealing. Since the tendency on these bikes tends to be the gap closing up then it would make sense to check them.
 

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I can't comment on other countries, but here in the good old US of A, is there really such a thing as "Bad" oil?? :rolleyes:
As long as it has the same SAE ratings as some much more expensive brands, does it REALLY matter? :confused:
I have been using Walmart's store brand oils in all my cars as well as all my motorcycles, including 3 BMW bikes, and have never had ANY issues whatsoever that could be attributed to oil.
I do believe however, that a synthetic is probably somewhat better than regular oil.:D
 

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I can't comment on other countries, but here in the good old US of A, is there really such a thing as "Bad" oil?? :rolleyes:
As long as it has the same SAE ratings as some much more expensive brands, does it REALLY matter? :confused:
I have been using Walmart's store brand oils in all my cars as well as all my motorcycles, including 3 BMW bikes, and have never had ANY issues whatsoever that could be attributed to oil.
I do believe however, that a synthetic is probably somewhat better than regular oil.:D
Agreed.

I have Delvac 15W40 at $12 a gallon in my bike now. I have only 49,640 miles on this 08 650, 54,000 on my first 03 650 and 19,000 on my totaled 1st 08 650. I have run Shell Rotella 5W40, Chevron Delvac 15W40, Chevron Delo 400 15W40, Castrol GTX 10W40, Chevron Supreme 10W40. What ever is on sale or best price goes in. I change it at about 7200 miles with a new filter.

Oh, by the way, I have never checked my valve clearances. I may some day.
 

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Agreed. Oh, by the way, I have never checked my valve clearances. I may some day.
never checked my valve clearances Yet? I Don't have a torque tool to put it back together again... And if the valves are out of Sync what would be the Symptoms,.

Elliott,
 

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I use a zinc oil in my 650. And a zinc additive to my high performance Ghia motor. Zinc is a proven wear protection additive - and is a must for flat tappet cams which my Ghia has. It also has dual valve springs with 240# of seat pressure at zero lift. Zinc is not good for cars with catalytic converters - or for diesels with a DPF (diesel particulate filter) which my Jetta has - so no 'one-oil-for-all-four'. I asked Amsoil for recommendations for oil for my two scooters the Jetta and the Ghia. They recommended their high zinc content 10w-40 scooter oil for both scooters and the Ghia - and a 'Euro' 5w-30 oil for the Jetta.

I'll give it a try since I can get their oil at dealer cost through a friend. The scooter oil is only $7.85 per quart with drain periods of 10k or one year in those three. The 650 is the only one that might approach 10k in a year. I have to follow the VW factory schedule for the Jetta.
 

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Better oil means less valve wear. Sounds like a snake oil salesman pitch to me. [/QUOTE

...on maybe gullible ears? Reminds me of years ago when an eager young rider with a little 50cc bike who, on the 'advice' of some mechanic shortened his HT lead so that "the electricity will get to the spark plug quicker"
 

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I use a zinc oil in my 650. And a zinc additive to my high performance Ghia motor. Zinc is a proven wear protection additive - and is a must for flat tappet cams which my Ghia has. It also has dual valve springs with 240# of seat pressure at zero lift. Zinc is not good for cars with catalytic converters - or for diesels with a DPF (diesel particulate filter) which my Jetta has - so no 'one-oil-for-all-four'. I asked Amsoil for recommendations for oil for my two scooters the Jetta and the Ghia. They recommended their high zinc content 10w-40 scooter oil for both scooters and the Ghia - and a 'Euro' 5w-30 oil for the Jetta.

I'll give it a try since I can get their oil at dealer cost through a friend. The scooter oil is only $7.85 per quart with drain periods of 10k or one year in those three. The 650 is the only one that might approach 10k in a year. I have to follow the VW factory schedule for the Jetta.
You do know that the 08 650 has a catalytic converter don't you.
 

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I often put a little semi synth 2 stroke oil in the fuel of my bikes n scooters the thought
being it will help lube the valve seats a little, do the same on my Diesel car but that
is more to do with getting a little lube to the high pressure fuel pump that have a habit
of braking up and sending metal particles through the fuel system.
the valves on that engine are not even on the maintenance sheet it's at 98000+ and counting.
About 10cc per gallon thats very roughly 500 to 1
 

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Valve seat ware is more to do with heat than actual ware, the valve as a tendency
to get so hot especially the exhaust one that it semi welds its self to the seat and sort of plucks
minute bits off the seats get eaten away and the valve sinks into the head so closing up the clearances,
eventually the valves are held slightly open and the compression starts to disappear.
 
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