better bulb?
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Don't diddle around with LEDs - Just remove the bulb - read what it says on the base and go get another one.......PROLLY - at Walmart or Autozone.........OR any other auto parts store....!!tomfelock said:
f you are determined to replace the incandescent bulb with an LED --------- Go here!!! http://www.superbrightleds.com/
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120 Posts
I had my bulbs out one day out of curiosity and noticed they were VERY heavy duty.
The filament is center supported, (this helps keep the bulb intct with vibrations), and was construted much better than the cheap bulbs I see from Autozone and/or Wal-Mart. (Even when compared to the "Long-Life" bulbs.) I used to see this type of bulb advertised as "Heavy-Duty" long ago but, have not seen them for sale in years. I wonder where you might purchase one today?
The filament is center supported, (this helps keep the bulb intct with vibrations), and was construted much better than the cheap bulbs I see from Autozone and/or Wal-Mart. (Even when compared to the "Long-Life" bulbs.) I used to see this type of bulb advertised as "Heavy-Duty" long ago but, have not seen them for sale in years. I wonder where you might purchase one today?
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8,751 Posts
I know that several people have changed all their bulbs out for LEDs. For them, it was worth it. I could never see the practicality of it. There's a lot of cost involved with changing them all out, over and above what it will cost you to replace the bulb with a standard bulb. And it's not like the charging system is marginal. I used both the heated gloves and LED driving lights all winter long and never had a problem starting.
Chances are, you'll never replace the bulb again. The only bulbs that ever burned out on me were the headlights, and that's to be expected. All the other lights on the bike have worked great.
Chris
Chances are, you'll never replace the bulb again. The only bulbs that ever burned out on me were the headlights, and that's to be expected. All the other lights on the bike have worked great.
Chris
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17,124 Posts
I agree with most of those above. I went the total LED conversion as I went to Magic Blinkers for my front turnsignals to be on FULL TIME. I added up all the wattage of the standard incandescent bulbs and the special resistors needed to load the turnsignal relay and went the LED route. But the pay back time is very very long. The two bulbs for the rear cost about $17 each. The "Superbright" 1157 LED's I got are a bit brighter than the P21/5, about the same as a P28/8 (91 Kaw Ninja 500). A P21/5 is 5 watts on running and 21 watts braking. The 1157 LED is like 0.2 watts running and 1 watt braking.
That $34 cost will take years to recoup in gas mileage. If you want a slightly brighter bulb see if a P28/8 will fit. It will run a bit hotter than a P21/5 but it works in the smaller Ninja 500's housing. This is assuming you are talking about a P21/5 bulb.
In my case, phase 1 was to install a set of Magic Blinkers, and two 20 watt resistors for the turnsignal relay so it did not think I had burnt out bulbs up front. These resistors added to the NOW ON full time P21's up front, it was a lot of wattage. By going to LED's in the turnsignals front and the Brake/running lights rear, I saved the wattage added by the load resistors. Phase 2 was to buy a LED turnsignal relay and cut the factory wiring and install it. I could then remove the load resistors. Oh, I was also running heated grips, a heated seat pad and a 50 watt fog lamp. Lots of wattage.
That $34 cost will take years to recoup in gas mileage. If you want a slightly brighter bulb see if a P28/8 will fit. It will run a bit hotter than a P21/5 but it works in the smaller Ninja 500's housing. This is assuming you are talking about a P21/5 bulb.
In my case, phase 1 was to install a set of Magic Blinkers, and two 20 watt resistors for the turnsignal relay so it did not think I had burnt out bulbs up front. These resistors added to the NOW ON full time P21's up front, it was a lot of wattage. By going to LED's in the turnsignals front and the Brake/running lights rear, I saved the wattage added by the load resistors. Phase 2 was to buy a LED turnsignal relay and cut the factory wiring and install it. I could then remove the load resistors. Oh, I was also running heated grips, a heated seat pad and a 50 watt fog lamp. Lots of wattage.
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17,124 Posts
Tom, Ok, I now understand this is a E4 bulb with a push connector, not a twist type like a 1157/P21/5. Sorry. Does anyone have a cross reference #? E4 does not show much in a web search. Is this a 3157 or 7443? There are special SCK wired 3157 and 7443's too with the ground leads on one side and the two powers on the other. Can not just go to Wallyworld and buy a bulb unless you know its part number. [attachment=0:2cep3k8r]led-car-bulb-CK-wiring.jpg[/attachment:2cep3k8r]
IF your bulb is a SCK3157 and you put a standard 3157 in, you may short the connector plug and blow a fuse. This is not a permanent short, when you unplug the bulb it clears the short then replace the blown fuse.
If you go with LED, choose the correct color bulb for the lenses. White LED bulbs are not real white spectrum and the Red lenses will filter out most of the usable light allowing just the red spectrum to pass. A Red LED is all red spectrum. Same with amber. A Red or amber behind a clear works.
Not sure on direct replacements but these may be close. You could call SuperBright at 866-590-3533.
http://www.superbrightleds.com/cat/led- ... 9--436694/
IF your bulb is a SCK3157 and you put a standard 3157 in, you may short the connector plug and blow a fuse. This is not a permanent short, when you unplug the bulb it clears the short then replace the blown fuse.
If you go with LED, choose the correct color bulb for the lenses. White LED bulbs are not real white spectrum and the Red lenses will filter out most of the usable light allowing just the red spectrum to pass. A Red LED is all red spectrum. Same with amber. A Red or amber behind a clear works.
Not sure on direct replacements but these may be close. You could call SuperBright at 866-590-3533.
http://www.superbrightleds.com/cat/led- ... 9--436694/
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17,124 Posts
STOP!
Looking at the parts fiche at my dealer, the "Rear Combination Lamp" for 2008 and 2011 AN400 both show a P21/5 Push and twist Bayonet style bulb (Bay-15d), same as a 1157. If that is true then there are a few options. For a bit more light just use a P28/8 or P27/8 bulb. Look at this PDF, you must have a PDF reader installed on your Puter. http://www.candlepowerinc.com/pdfs/Metal_Signal.pdf
GE Nighthawk 20% 1157's, P21/5's or P28/8's
Lots of LED 1157's. A set of dual based 45 SMD chips would be very bright but not sure they would fit. Look here for lengths as they run from 42mm to 57mm long. http://www.superbrightleds.com/cat/led- ... 4--159280/
You can get a 1157 base 50/14C bulb but 2X's 50 watt's may melt plastic if you hold the brake on for a while. I have run that type bulb in my 65 Barracuda's front turnsignal housing with the wires reversed so its a 50 Watt driving light. They do get hot.
Looking at the parts fiche at my dealer, the "Rear Combination Lamp" for 2008 and 2011 AN400 both show a P21/5 Push and twist Bayonet style bulb (Bay-15d), same as a 1157. If that is true then there are a few options. For a bit more light just use a P28/8 or P27/8 bulb. Look at this PDF, you must have a PDF reader installed on your Puter. http://www.candlepowerinc.com/pdfs/Metal_Signal.pdf
GE Nighthawk 20% 1157's, P21/5's or P28/8's
Lots of LED 1157's. A set of dual based 45 SMD chips would be very bright but not sure they would fit. Look here for lengths as they run from 42mm to 57mm long. http://www.superbrightleds.com/cat/led- ... 4--159280/
You can get a 1157 base 50/14C bulb but 2X's 50 watt's may melt plastic if you hold the brake on for a while. I have run that type bulb in my 65 Barracuda's front turnsignal housing with the wires reversed so its a 50 Watt driving light. They do get hot.
I like this type of LED's better. This is an example of the 1157. (It might be too powerful, but I have orderded and I will report back)
http://dx.com/p/1157-10w-900lm-5-led-wh ... 30v-168850
http://dx.com/p/1157-10w-900lm-5-led-wh ... 30v-168850
I bought a Sylvania 2057LL (LL=long life) bulb at walmart to replace the e4 bulb that burned out and it is working ok - at least for now - but I will have to see if it will hold up since it is an a motorcycle which means that it will need to be able to handle the rough roads I/we encounter. Any thoughts on how well it will hold up? And... if anyone knows where I can get an actual e4 bulb, maybe that is what I really need.
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5,100 Posts
It will be fine. Don't overthink it and always carry a spare or two.
This is what I use:
Kisan TailBlazer Brake Light Flasher 20W-D - Plug-In
https://www.kisantech.com/index.php?cat_id=3
This is what I use:
Kisan TailBlazer Brake Light Flasher 20W-D - Plug-In
https://www.kisantech.com/index.php?cat_id=3
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180 Posts
I totally agree with eyedoc. If you want brighter brake lights etc use an LED strip or an add-on fixture. This makes future trouble shooting easier and it prevents hacked up OE wiring. I fiddled with LED bulbs for a while and they do work but the cost is high for the return, and as been pointed out, the Burgman has plenty of reserve power. These bikes are not Chinese scooters with a stator that just puts out enough juice to recharge the battery.
See the new video that LeDude just uploaded detailing the addition of LED light strips for the rear of a Burgman.
See the new video that LeDude just uploaded detailing the addition of LED light strips for the rear of a Burgman.
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5,100 Posts
I stuck one of these on the back of my pickup, in the hitch receiver. About $30. But I think it could be adapted for a Burg.
http://www.etrailer.com/Merchant2/graph ... L_1000.jpg
Brake, tail and turn; the left most one blinks with left turn signal, and right most one blinks with right turn signal....
http://www.etrailer.com/Merchant2/graph ... L_1000.jpg
Brake, tail and turn; the left most one blinks with left turn signal, and right most one blinks with right turn signal....
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