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Bestem 929 T-Box with Hassle-free Electrical Contacts
This is an update to a similar post I put on "the other Burgman site", which was lost when that site updated their service. Hopefully, it will remain a little safer here. While some information covers specifies of attaching the 929 box to the later model 400, additional information is given which shows a wiring modification which may be more generally applied.
I purchased a Bestem 929 T-Box for my 2009 Burgman 400. I liked the price, especially with what was included. The base model comes with a base plate, passenger backrest and LED stop lights, and options are available for an inner liner (lower half of the box, only), a wrap-around LED strip, and an aluminum top rack. I opted for the liner and the total bill came to under $100. Now with over 11K miles with it, I’ve been very pleased with the looks and functionality of the box. I’ve had no issues with cracks developing in the base plate, which I mounted directly to the bike’s hardpoints.
In a nutshell, the base plate can either be clamped onto a luggage rack, bolted to another plate which is mounted to the bike or, like I did, mounted directly to the bike’s hardpoints. Holes must be drilled through the Tupperware for the mounting bolts. Hole locations are marked on the underside of the Tupperware. Those holes can then be used to make a pattern for drilling corresponding holes in the Bestem base plate, as it’s pre-drilled holes do not match the Burgman hardpoints. Supplied bolts are then run through the holes in the plate and nuts run up each but not tightened, all using appropriate flat and lock washers. After reinstalling the Tupperware, run the bolts through it’s holes and into the hard points. Run each down to a point where, when pulling the plate up against the bolt heads the plate is in final position, then tighten the nuts underneath without letting the bolts turn. Caution: if mounted too low, it can be difficult to get a wrench to front nuts. Also, make sure to position the plate far enough rearward for clearance between the top box and the seat when opening the seat.
The one thing I didn’t like was the fact that the wires run out a front corner of the box and have plainly visible, push connectors for connecting/disconnecting the lights when installing/removing the box. This did not suit my aesthetic taste and I also found I had to be careful to be sure the wires didn’t get pinched when clamping the box down. So, I devised a much more elegant solution, as shown on the following pages. Basically, I used components available at a typical hardware store and built hidden, fixed-in-place contacts that required no manual manipulation. They simply make and break contact when installing and removing the box. I imagine this concept would generally work on other bikes and boxes, provided the box snaps down into place.
You can pretty well follow the illustrations and labels to get ‘er done, with a few comments:
1) Install the fittings to the plate after drilling and fitting the supplied mounting plate but before attaching it to the scooter. It’s easier to get to the underside for tightening things up.
2) I advise using the same existing plate holes I did, simple because everything worked out well. What looks like an alternative is the first pair of holes more toward the front of the bike. Drill a matching hole in the tupperware to take the wires through to attachment points with the bike's wiring.
3) Install everything to the mounting plate first put some chalk on the top of the springs, snap the box onto the plate and then remove it. Some round chalk marks should be left on the bottom of the box, exactly marking where the springs will hit. Simply drill the center of them for installing the box hardware.
4) There will be some minor rerouting of the wires inside the T-Box, so wire anchors are included in the parts list.
5) While the pipe insulation protects the majority of the installation from water, I did all this after fully installing my mounting plate. This made it difficult to get very well to the exposed screw ends and nuts on the bottom side. By installing the assembly prior to final placement on the bike, you can coat these items with silicone or whatever is appropriate to protect them as well and ensure no shorts when wet. I’m currently hoping that their location pretty well protects them in my case.
6) Parts list. I threw away packaging before thinking of sharing, so to give a complete parts list with sizes would require some time recreating at the hardware store. However, I have measured some things and will include sizes where I can. All metal components except springs are in stainless steel. All washers are the type that have relatively small center holes compared to the diameter of the washer:
a. Metal 7/8” flat washers (4)
b. Vinyl 1¼” flat washers (4) (have ¼” center holes)
c. ¼” dia. X (I think) ¼” long Vinyl spacers (will require shortening for tight assembly)
d. Machine screws (2) sized to pass through vinyl sleeve and long enough to pass through a wire connector, the T-Box bottom, a metal flat washer, and locknut (These two don’t actually pass through a spacer but this keeps the screw size consistent except for length), and (2) to pass through two vinyl washers, a metal flat washer, the mounting plate, a wire connector and connecting nut. Remember that in both cases there will also be a twist of the spring under the metal washers, so a little for that as well. To keep in mind is not to make the screw in the T-Box so long that it makes contact with the head of the plate screw, rather than the springs making the contact, and the plate screw so long that it gets into the Tupperware, but that they both pass fully through the locknuts to prevent vibrating loose.
e. Lock nuts (4) for above machine screws.
f. ½” dia. X 5/8” long springs (2)
g. Crimp-on wire connectors (4) sized appropriately for the Bestem light wires and of the type that have a hole to pass the machine screws through.
h. Adhesive-backed wire anchors (about 6 or so)
i. 1” flexible foam pipe insulation. You will only need a total two, one inch long pieces. It should be of the type with the self’-sealing center seam.
j. Silicone adhesive caulk
k. Electrically conductive grease (unless your springs are stainless, coat them with this)
Have fun tinkering! The next few pages show how things go together but, if you have any trouble, I’ll be glad to answer any questions. Fastest response will probably be vie email, found in my profile.
Scooter
Click on each image for larger, sharper view:
[attachment=3:3tm7spb1]1-Assembled Components.jpg[/attachment:3tm7spb1]
[attachment=2:3tm7spb1]2-Exploded Component View.jpg[/attachment:3tm7spb1]
[attachment=1:3tm7spb1]3-Full Assembly.jpg[/attachment:3tm7spb1]
[attachment=0:3tm7spb1]4-Pics.jpg[/attachment:3tm7spb1]
This is an update to a similar post I put on "the other Burgman site", which was lost when that site updated their service. Hopefully, it will remain a little safer here. While some information covers specifies of attaching the 929 box to the later model 400, additional information is given which shows a wiring modification which may be more generally applied.
I purchased a Bestem 929 T-Box for my 2009 Burgman 400. I liked the price, especially with what was included. The base model comes with a base plate, passenger backrest and LED stop lights, and options are available for an inner liner (lower half of the box, only), a wrap-around LED strip, and an aluminum top rack. I opted for the liner and the total bill came to under $100. Now with over 11K miles with it, I’ve been very pleased with the looks and functionality of the box. I’ve had no issues with cracks developing in the base plate, which I mounted directly to the bike’s hardpoints.
In a nutshell, the base plate can either be clamped onto a luggage rack, bolted to another plate which is mounted to the bike or, like I did, mounted directly to the bike’s hardpoints. Holes must be drilled through the Tupperware for the mounting bolts. Hole locations are marked on the underside of the Tupperware. Those holes can then be used to make a pattern for drilling corresponding holes in the Bestem base plate, as it’s pre-drilled holes do not match the Burgman hardpoints. Supplied bolts are then run through the holes in the plate and nuts run up each but not tightened, all using appropriate flat and lock washers. After reinstalling the Tupperware, run the bolts through it’s holes and into the hard points. Run each down to a point where, when pulling the plate up against the bolt heads the plate is in final position, then tighten the nuts underneath without letting the bolts turn. Caution: if mounted too low, it can be difficult to get a wrench to front nuts. Also, make sure to position the plate far enough rearward for clearance between the top box and the seat when opening the seat.
The one thing I didn’t like was the fact that the wires run out a front corner of the box and have plainly visible, push connectors for connecting/disconnecting the lights when installing/removing the box. This did not suit my aesthetic taste and I also found I had to be careful to be sure the wires didn’t get pinched when clamping the box down. So, I devised a much more elegant solution, as shown on the following pages. Basically, I used components available at a typical hardware store and built hidden, fixed-in-place contacts that required no manual manipulation. They simply make and break contact when installing and removing the box. I imagine this concept would generally work on other bikes and boxes, provided the box snaps down into place.
You can pretty well follow the illustrations and labels to get ‘er done, with a few comments:
1) Install the fittings to the plate after drilling and fitting the supplied mounting plate but before attaching it to the scooter. It’s easier to get to the underside for tightening things up.
2) I advise using the same existing plate holes I did, simple because everything worked out well. What looks like an alternative is the first pair of holes more toward the front of the bike. Drill a matching hole in the tupperware to take the wires through to attachment points with the bike's wiring.
3) Install everything to the mounting plate first put some chalk on the top of the springs, snap the box onto the plate and then remove it. Some round chalk marks should be left on the bottom of the box, exactly marking where the springs will hit. Simply drill the center of them for installing the box hardware.
4) There will be some minor rerouting of the wires inside the T-Box, so wire anchors are included in the parts list.
5) While the pipe insulation protects the majority of the installation from water, I did all this after fully installing my mounting plate. This made it difficult to get very well to the exposed screw ends and nuts on the bottom side. By installing the assembly prior to final placement on the bike, you can coat these items with silicone or whatever is appropriate to protect them as well and ensure no shorts when wet. I’m currently hoping that their location pretty well protects them in my case.
6) Parts list. I threw away packaging before thinking of sharing, so to give a complete parts list with sizes would require some time recreating at the hardware store. However, I have measured some things and will include sizes where I can. All metal components except springs are in stainless steel. All washers are the type that have relatively small center holes compared to the diameter of the washer:
a. Metal 7/8” flat washers (4)
b. Vinyl 1¼” flat washers (4) (have ¼” center holes)
c. ¼” dia. X (I think) ¼” long Vinyl spacers (will require shortening for tight assembly)
d. Machine screws (2) sized to pass through vinyl sleeve and long enough to pass through a wire connector, the T-Box bottom, a metal flat washer, and locknut (These two don’t actually pass through a spacer but this keeps the screw size consistent except for length), and (2) to pass through two vinyl washers, a metal flat washer, the mounting plate, a wire connector and connecting nut. Remember that in both cases there will also be a twist of the spring under the metal washers, so a little for that as well. To keep in mind is not to make the screw in the T-Box so long that it makes contact with the head of the plate screw, rather than the springs making the contact, and the plate screw so long that it gets into the Tupperware, but that they both pass fully through the locknuts to prevent vibrating loose.
e. Lock nuts (4) for above machine screws.
f. ½” dia. X 5/8” long springs (2)
g. Crimp-on wire connectors (4) sized appropriately for the Bestem light wires and of the type that have a hole to pass the machine screws through.
h. Adhesive-backed wire anchors (about 6 or so)
i. 1” flexible foam pipe insulation. You will only need a total two, one inch long pieces. It should be of the type with the self’-sealing center seam.
j. Silicone adhesive caulk
k. Electrically conductive grease (unless your springs are stainless, coat them with this)
Have fun tinkering! The next few pages show how things go together but, if you have any trouble, I’ll be glad to answer any questions. Fastest response will probably be vie email, found in my profile.
Scooter
Click on each image for larger, sharper view:
[attachment=3:3tm7spb1]1-Assembled Components.jpg[/attachment:3tm7spb1]
[attachment=2:3tm7spb1]2-Exploded Component View.jpg[/attachment:3tm7spb1]
[attachment=1:3tm7spb1]3-Full Assembly.jpg[/attachment:3tm7spb1]
[attachment=0:3tm7spb1]4-Pics.jpg[/attachment:3tm7spb1]
