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Discussion Starter #1
Just picked up my Burgie earlier this week. The dealer keeps a Battery Tender lead connected to the battery to maintain a charge while bikes are in the showroom. It's a very short lead, so I just decided to keep it connected to the battery and left it hanging in the glove box so I can charge it whenever. When I got home I charged the battery fully. When done charging, I left the leads connected to the battery. Well, three days later the battery was completely dead. I may have left the trunk dome light on. I'm not sure, because the stupid switch has two off positions and one on position. This is how I first discovered the battery was dead. I went to turn the light on and got nothing. Then I couldn't remember which position the switch was originally in. I removed the battery and tried to charge it with BTJ, only to discover BTJ won't charge a completely dead battery. I had to use my jump starter to get it up to a high enough voltage. Then, I switched to BTJ to complete the charge. It's still charging now. I have a few questions.

1. Is it likely that leaving the BTJ leads connected to the battery but not the charger, drained the battery?

2. Could this deep discharge have done permanent damage to the battery? It was only dead for no more than three days.


Thanks,

Sube
 

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I've had Battery Tender leads attached to my batteries for over 5 years,
with no problems with discharging when not connected to the charger.

As for the deep-discharge/dead battery.....just 1 time might not be a problem.
 

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1. Is it likely that leaving the BTJ leads connected to the battery but not the charger, drained the battery?
NO! You most likely did not hurt the battery. For weather stowage I leave it on the Battery Tender JR, that is what it is designed to do. It will keep the battery charged but will not work for a dead battery. Charge up the battery and if it holds the charge no problem. Check to be sure the lugs on the battery are tight.

Take care jump starting you can fry it. Best to recharge using a charger.

Next time leave the BTJ hooked up if you are going to leave a light on. :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yeah, I didn't want to use the jump starter, but I had no choice since the BTJ wouldn't work on a dead battery. I only used the jump starter for a few minutes, just enough to get the battery above 3 volts. That's the threshold at which the BTJ will charge a battery.

OK, so I guess it wasn't leaving the BTJ leads connected that did it. I must have left the dome light on. I'll have to make sure I check that from now on. :oops:

Thanks to all.


Sube
 

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sube5186 said:
Yeah, I didn't want to use the jump starter, but I had no choice since the BTJ wouldn't work on a dead battery. I only used the jump starter for a few minutes, just enough to get the battery above 3 volts. That's the threshold at which the BTJ will charge a battery.

OK, so I guess it wasn't leaving the BTJ leads connected that did it. I must have left the dome light on. I'll have to make sure I check that from now on. :oops:

Thanks to all.


Sube
That tiny light in the trunk which is operated by a mercury switch is - TOTALLY WORTHLESS....!!! Just remove the bulb OR make certain the switch is in the PERMANENTLY OFF position.........!

ANd - i had the problem of a dead battery from leaving my grip heaters on which are connected directly to the battery. I purchased a Schumaker 3 -function battery charger AND WILL recharge a 100% dead battery in just 1 hour.and change it's mode to "float" to keep it charged (Like a Battery tender!) Also - it can act as a jumper battery as well.......... About $80.00 from Amazon.
 

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Are you sure you did not leave the parking lights on? the boot light should go off when you
shut the lid but when you lock the steering it is very easy to go one click too far and leave
the parking lights on and if it's daylight they are not that noticeable, many have done it.
 

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I would have handled this different---assuming bike is brand new left over----FIRST get dealer involved, have him come as a little after sale service, determine problem, (even if rider error) charge battery/load test---get bike running. 2011 standing on showroom floor for 18 months? Battery could be toast.

second, I see no need for trickle chargers---just ride bike everyday year 'round and battery will stay up---don't add electrical junk----batteries should last 3-5 years. Because of location of battery, I would replace only with OEM or direct OEM replacement. On price Batteries Plus has worked for me---usually free charge/load test on old battery to determine if it is really junk. New battery charged and ready to go.
 

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Hey John how would you be able to ride every day if you are waiting a month for the dealer to come out to your House. :lol:
 

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I have purchased over 75 new bikes/scooters since 1955. Believe me he would be there within hours. Since I use bike/scooter as my transportation....the dealer knows when I buy he has to work with me.....same deal on any service/warranty work=right now, today. My selling dealer in Chattanooga is aware of this, I do not use them for service or parts as they are screw operation----I tried to give them business for drive belt/change.....$510 their quote and 3 week wait inspite of my prior warning to them that I need instant service if necesssary -----I get a new bike once a year and they will not be given consideration for the next new one. There are plenty of bike dealers in the area. $140 OEM belt will come from FL and I do work myself.

Bike industry gets by too easy on customer service------wife has new leased Genisis----had to fight with them for them to do their part...but got it. As non native of the south I find a lot of things 2nd rate here and shock to me. In the case of car I should not have had to beg/force them to do job. Burgman, I will just go elsewhere. next time.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
It's possible I went over one click too many and turned on the parking lights without noticing. It's also possible I left the trunk light on. At this stage it's impossible for me to determine. More than likely it was an error on my part and not a defective battery. I've been to bike dealers and asked to test ride a specific bike, only to be told the battery was dead and would need to be charged. My dealer keeps all of there bike's batteries charged. They all have Battery Tender leads hanging out of all of their bikes for easy routine charging. At this stage I have no reason to believe they gave me a bad battery. I just finished recharging it. It went through the full normal BT charge phases.....steady red, flashing green and finally steady green. I'll install it in the bike tomorrow and see what happens. If it holds a charge, that will be more evidence of user error on my part.

By the way, the 2011 has a manual light switch in the trunk. It's not an automatic mercury switch. I believe they used those on older models, but eliminated this design on the newer ones. Reason being, if you rarely ride at night you're burning out the bulb prematurely. You don't need a light constantly coming on during daylight hours every time you open the seat. Obviously, there are advantages and disadvantages to the newer design.

There was no point in me calling the dealer and insisting that they come out and fix it. I fixed it myself at no cost long before they would have been able to do it for me. Trust me, I'm not one to let any dealer take advantage of me. If the battery mysteriously loses charge for no apparent reason, I'll be up there quick, fast and in a hurry demanding a new replacement. However, as I mentioned earlier I can NOT guarantee that this whole episode wasn't my own fault.

Stay tuned. I'll report back with the results.


Sube
 

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"By the way, the 2011 has a manual light switch in the trunk. It's not an automatic mercury switch. I believe they used those on older models, but eliminated this design on the newer ones. Reason being, if you rarely ride at night you're burning out the bulb prematurely. You don't need a light constantly coming on during daylight hours every time you open the seat. Obviously, there are advantages and disadvantages to the newer design."

Sorry but I do not know about your trunk light switch but in my 2008 model - the switch is a 3-position switch 1) constantly on 2) on only when trunk is opened 3) constantly off
 

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I have an '03, there is no mercury switch but rather a plunger operated switch up front by the seat hinge, in series with the three position switch in the light housing. The three position switch offers only on (center) or off (either side).

Here's the schematic from the '07 shop manual--the '03 circuit is identical:

 

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Discussion Starter #13
v8eyedoc said:
Sorry but I do not know about your trunk light switch but in my 2008 model - the switch is a 3-position switch 1) constantly on 2) on only when trunk is opened 3) constantly off
Either you're misinterpreting how the switch works, or they changed it on the 2011 400. Mine is "On" in the center position and "Off" in the left and right position. This is clearly depicted in the instruction manual. Why would there be a "constantly on" position AND an "on only when trunk is opened" position? That would make no sense.

There is no plunger to detect when the seat is up.


Sube
 

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The plunger is up front by the seat hinge.
So is it safe to leave your light on and let the plunger switch do its job?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Mike337 said:
The plunger is up front by the seat hinge.
I just went out and checked mine again. I don't see a plunger. Care to take a pic? Sometimes these are the types of little things they change from one model year to the next and don't bother to mention it. You have a 2012. Mine is a 2011.


Sube
 

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Discussion Starter #19
OK, I'll be the first one to say it. I'm officially an idiot. Went out and checked again. Sure enough there is a plunger switch for the seat. Don't know how I missed it. Well, in all fairness, it is pretty well concealed and there's no mention of this in the owner's manual. My apologies to everyone. Mystery solved. Now I know it wasn't the trunk light that ran down the battery. By process of elimination it had to be the parking lights. I discovered the hard way that it's very easy to turn the key one click too far to the left. For obvious reasons, I'm not sure I agree with this design. Why not have the parking lights on a timer that can shut them off at a predetermined interval? This is how it works on most cars.


Sube
 

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I know all about that parking light position having had a number of Suzuki's
and still sometimes find myself going back to the garage just to check the lights are off.
 
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