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The members of this forum are awesome – so I want to begin with a thank you!

I have a 2007 Burgman 650 with 21,500 miles on it and I am the original owner. I ride it daily here in Florida and have never had any problems until now.

It had the original battery until just 3 ½ months ago when I changed it out as a preventative measure. I made sure to use the correct AGM replacement battery and always use a battery tender. That worked fine until this week when it failed to start at work. The lights came on and I heard the “click” but my starter sounded like it was struggling. After a couple of tries the starter does not turn over at all.

I pulled the battery out and brought it to Batteries Plus (where I bought it) and they showed it testing bad but suggested they charge it first and then re-test. After that, they claimed it was a good battery. They measured it at 13.69 volts and 183 cold cranking amps out of the 200 rating after charging it for a few hours. They wondered if the bike is draining the battery in some way. I am diligent to always check if the parking lights are on (they never are) as well as the under seat light (which always stays off). I have had a cord for a GPS plugged into the locking console but I only have it attached to the GPS occasionally while riding.

When I re-installed the charged battery the bike started and worked fine for a couple of days until it happened again at work (when off my battery tender for about 9 hours). I then brought my battery tender to work, charged it and the bike started fine and I rode it home.

My question is: how can I tell if it is a battery or bike issue? Is there anything else (besides the clock) that can drain the battery? If so, how could I tell? Could a battery that tests well after being on a tender drain down on its own without it being my bike responsible for the drain? Could it instead be the starter going bad and the battery drains from repeated attempts when it does not start?

I wanted to get some thoughts before I explore service options. One last thing: I am not very adept at electrical issues. I am not even sure how to check my fuses but I do have a full service manual I purchased and am willing to self-learn if it saves me from expensive service costs.

Thanks in advance for any advice/ideas….
 

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If you have a multimeter check the charging voltage with it running first. The battery should read about 12.8 volts charged and something higher than that (14-15.5 volts at 5,000 rpm) with the bike running. Then check the 40 A main fuse under the seat on the left side of the bike. Then after the battery has been charged use it to check for current draw (under 3 mA) with the bike off. Possible the rectifier/regulator with a charging issue or a bad diode in it allowing the battery to drain through the stator. Battery is always possible too.
 

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I have same problem. I have '09 650, battery seemed bad, was replaced, and the new one did the same thing once discharged. voltage is 12.5 off and does not change with engine running at 5000 rpm. How hard is it to check / repair the rectifier/ regulator/ charging system?

Anyone anywhere near Charlottesville, Virginia who might be able to help me?

Thanks. David
 

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If the battery voltage does NOT go up to 14.5 when the bike is running, then the charging system is at fault. It could be the rectifier/regulator or the alternator (highly unlikely). A reading of 12.5 when running is an indication of no charging. Check on LeDudes' site for instructions on fixing it and good luck
Geezer
 

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thecleveman said:
I have same problem. I have '09 650, battery seemed bad, was replaced, and the new one did the same thing once discharged. voltage is 12.5 off and does not change with engine running at 5000 rpm. How hard is it to check / repair the rectifier/ regulator/ charging system?

Anyone anywhere near Charlottesville, Virginia who might be able to help me?

Thanks. David
When standing on the left side, look at the gas filler door. Under that side cover is the regulator/rectifier mounted up on the frame. Some had squeezed their hands and tools up in there to remove it but it takes removing that panel to get to it. There was a recall for some years. Do a search for MOSFET and read the topics. On a Kawasaki forum there is a posting that outlines how to test the rectifier, I don't have the URL sorry.
 

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After spending a whole lifetime doing auto electric here is the difinitive answer, disconnect the negitive terminal of the battery, connect a 12 volt test light between the battery terminal & the battery cable you just removed if the filiment of the bulb glows even a small amount you have a drain on the battery. Pull fuses one by on untill the glow goes away then you know what circuit to look for the problem. This works for any kind of vehicle.Hope this has helped,Mark
 

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ashby102 said:
After spending a whole lifetime doing auto electric here is the difinitive answer, disconnect the negitive terminal of the battery, connect a 12 volt test light between the battery terminal & the battery cable you just removed if the filiment of the bulb glows even a small amount you have a drain on the battery. Pull fuses one by on untill the glow goes away then you know what circuit to look for the problem. This works for any kind of vehicle.Hope this has helped,Mark
A test light is one of the best tools to have. I have said that in so many posts thru the years. I will not do any wiring without one. That and a good "Bed of Nails" Allagator clip that any telephone man can get for ya. J.S. Popper
[attachment=0:2yi81m7s]Popper clip.jpg[/attachment:2yi81m7s]
 

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