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Discussion Starter #1
Someone mentioned moving the bars back. Is that possible? I haven't tried to figure out how to take the cover off the top of the forks.
 

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There are brackets that you can buy
that have a set-back that go between
the handlebars & the mounts on top
of the forks.
 

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Someone mentioned moving the bars back. Is that possible? I haven't tried to figure out how to take the cover off the top of the forks.
You don't have your bike type listed in your profile but doing a search on you ID it appears you have a 2012 650. You could make it easier to answer your questions it you would add your bike type to your profile.

In answer to your question. Yes you can rotate the bars back a little just by loosening the clamps under the handlebar covers. To remove the covers look on the back side and you will find to pushpin style fasteners. Push the center about 1/10 inch and you will hear a click. Stop pushing at that point then pull the fastener out. Now you can pull forward on the lower part of the cover and remove it. Now you will find two more of the push pins on the front side of the back half of the cover up near the handlebar grips. Remove those then pull straight up on the back half of the cover to remove it.

Now you can see the four bolts that secure the handlebar clamps. Loosen those and you can rotate the bars back toward you. The problem is that you can't move them much or the covers will drag on the dash when you reinstall them. To get around that you have a couple of options. One is to cut off the edge of the cover. The other is to raise the handlebars up. You can purchase risers to accomplish that. That is what I did with mine. The riser I used were from Genmar. http://www.genmarmfg.com/shop/unive...8-bar-style-handlebar-risers-1-up-detail.html They raise the bars up 1 inch which is enough to allow you to rotate the grips back toward you 2 to 3 inches before the covers touch the dash. They will install without any problems with the cables being to tight.

Genmar sells another style that moves the bars up 1" and back 1 3/8 inches toward you. I believe those are the ones Duster is referring to.
http://www.genmarmfg.com/shop/universal-risers/x102-detail.html
Those will allow you to move the grips even further back but the cover will hang out over the dash when you reinstall it. Folks that have installed them have reported needing to cut the ties that hold the cable to the bars to gain enough slack in the cables.
 

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You don't have your bike type listed in your profile but doing a search on you ID it appears you have a 2012 650. You could make it easier to answer your questions it you would add your bike type to your profile.

In answer to your question. Yes you can rotate the bars back a little just by loosening the clamps under the handlebar covers. To remove the covers look on the back side and you will find to pushpin style fasteners. Push the center about 1/10 inch and you will hear a click. Stop pushing at that point then pull the fastener out. Now you can pull forward on the lower part of the cover and remove it. Now you will find two more of the push pins on the front side of the back half of the cover up near the handlebar grips. Remove those then pull straight up on the back half of the cover to remove it.

Now you can see the four bolts that secure the handlebar clamps. Loosen those and you can rotate the bars back toward you. The problem is that you can't move them much or the covers will drag on the dash when you reinstall them. To get around that you have a couple of options. One is to cut off the edge of the cover. The other is to raise the handlebars up. You can purchase risers to accomplish that. That is what I did with mine. The riser I used were from Genmar. http://www.genmarmfg.com/shop/unive...8-bar-style-handlebar-risers-1-up-detail.html They raise the bars up 1 inch which is enough to allow you to rotate the grips back toward you 2 to 3 inches before the covers touch the dash. They will install without any problems with the cables being to tight.

Genmar sells another style that moves the bars up 1" and back 1 3/8 inches toward you. I believe those are the ones Duster is referring to.
http://www.genmarmfg.com/shop/universal-risers/x102-detail.html
Those will allow you to move the grips even further back but the cover will hang out over the dash when you reinstall it. Folks that have installed them have reported needing to cut the ties that hold the cable to the bars to gain enough slack in the cables.


I did this on my 2006 650 and it worked pretty good , much better than the stock set up with no need to re-cable any thing . Now wish I could figure out how to get a few more inches of leg room .

TheReaper!
 

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Those look like the same risers I used on one of my BMWs. I can't tell from the picture. Does the cover obscure part of the instrument panel?
No, you can see the whole instrument panel with ease. I just did not hold the camera high enough when I took that picture. I had it at what would be about chest level instead of head level.
 

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I did this on my 2006 650 and it worked pretty good , much better than the stock set up with no need to re-cable any thing . Now wish I could figure out how to get a few more inches of leg room .

TheReaper!
That's easy, buy a Corbin "long" seat like I did :).
 

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Discussion Starter #9
No, you can see the whole instrument panel with ease. I just did not hold the camera high enough when I took that picture. I had it at what would be about chest level instead of head level.
I have a set of Rox Risers I thought I would install, but the cabling wouldn't let me pull the bars back more than about 1/2 inch. Where I was working I couldn't get under the bike to see if I could loosen some ties to free up cable slack. The Rox gives a 2" extension and can be rotated up or down. That may be too much.

I'll have to get it in a better place later to take a look, unless someone can add to what I found out.
 

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I have a set of Rox Risers I thought I would install, but the cabling wouldn't let me pull the bars back more than about 1/2 inch. Where I was working I couldn't get under the bike to see if I could loosen some ties to free up cable slack. The Rox gives a 2" extension and can be rotated up or down. That may be too much.

I'll have to get it in a better place later to take a look, unless someone can add to what I found out.
Did you try removing the cable/line holders under the dash?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Did you try removing the cable/line holders under the dash?
Is that something like zip ties? There was a wire-like bracket they passed through loosely, but I didn't see anything below that holding them. The light wasn't good though.
 

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You should remove "wire tie thing", the wire loop, and below that there is a clamp holding the brake lines on each side.
 

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I put some 1" risers with 1 1/4" set backs on my 650. I got them from Amazon and had to slightly modify them too fit ( holes too narrowly spaced, no big deal). That is the most distance you can do without extending your brake lines.
Sure makes riding easier for me. It relieves my upper back stress from slightly leaning forward. I had these same type risers on my V-Strom and it made a big difference there too.

Greg
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I put some 1" risers with 1 1/4" set backs on my 650. I got them from Amazon and had to slightly modify them too fit ( holes too narrowly spaced, no big deal). That is the most distance you can do without extending your brake lines.
Sure makes riding easier for me. It relieves my upper back stress from slightly leaning forward. I had these same type risers on my V-Strom and it made a big difference there too.

Greg
Looks like the Rox risers I have are too extreme. I'll have to get another set before I try again.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
You should remove "wire tie thing", the wire loop, and below that there is a clamp holding the brake lines on each side.
I put on a set of Rox risers with a 7/8 rise and 1 1/8 setback today. With the wire loop removed, I had to set the grips a little higher than I like to keep the strain off the throttle cables in the right lock position, but they're still a little taut for my comfort at that. I think if I disconnect them and re-route them under the other cords there they'll be a little looser. But I still need to get the bars out of the ape-hanger category. The left fluid reservoir even interferes with the mirror a tiny bit. I see two clamps holding the hydraulic lines to a brace attached to the triple tree.
The lines are also joined at that point with metal couplers. Is it OK to remove those clamps and run it that way if needed? Perhaps I could secure them loosely with a large zip tie.

I have a real problem because I have to work in a cramped, poorly lit garage at the moment. Any large projects are out of the question and even small ones are more difficult than they normally would be.
 
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