Suzuki Burgman USA Forum banner

1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I own my 650 ( 2011 ) 26000Km now 8 month and from the start when the gears shift down it is not smooth at all. Strange is when the gearbox is cold ( 2 till 3 min ).
it is smooth as. Beautiful ....but after getting a bit warmer, then it is not smooth at all. I release the Engine braking power is quite strong. I'm running the 10 W 40 semi Castrol in the engine/ gearbox ,as the Manual recommend. Average Temperature in Queensland, Australia , is around 15 to 32 C all year. After I reading in one of your forums I installed the " Throttle Tamer ", which made a bit of a difference. Question : why is it changing gears nicely down when cold ( 15 or 30 C ) and after 3 min not smooth at all ? Changed oil to a different brand ,same. Should I go for a thicker oil 20 W 50 ?? Put a different oil in the gearbox ? Any help would be very much appreciated.!!
I'm still riding Varitor belt driven scooters for 6 years now. 300 Kymco, 400 Maxi Sym and as you all know they don't have gears and they slow done nicely . I like the Burgman and would like to keep it, but it is driving me Nuts !!! Thanks, Norman.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
713 Posts
Mmm sounds odd. The gears are all controlled by the ECU which gets the signal from the throttle. All the ECU does is operate the stepper motor to move the variator in and out increasing or decreasing the diameter of the belt. Oil does not come into the equation apart from oiling the clutch. 10w40 is the correct oil. You could pull the stepper motor and check the teeth on the plastic gears and that they turn freely but sounds like they are ok. Cant really suggest much more as any issues in the CVT can only be examined with the unit off the bike. This is what your CVT looks like
90568
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
8,064 Posts
1st the engine oil has nothing to do with the CVT, as it is a dry set up.

I use a throttle rocker withe softer oversized grips, the idea is to use the throttle more like a rheostat then a throttle. I found SLOW twisting of the throttle works best and even carrying a bit of power on deceleration.

Once you get used to it the engine braking is a big plus when it comes to saving you brakes. I still have the OEM pads on mine with 45,000 miles on it.

The over sized grips allow for finer adjustment and the throttle rocker relaxes my fingers during cruise.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
18,201 Posts
First of all if you are riding in Auto mode there should not be any gear changing at all. NONE! Only in manual mode that you must select after starting the bike, it will start in Auto mode every time.

Second, I am not sure that the "10 W 40 semi Castrol " you are using is JASO MA rated. If it does not say it "Meets JASO MA-2" then I'd not recommend it.
And if your daily temperature is between -10C to +55C the JASO MA-2 10W40 will work with no extra engine wear. We are not talking 1975's 10W40 oils.

Yes you can use 20W50 but I doubt you will get any longer life from the engine but your gas consumption will go UP a lot. Is it worth it? Not to me.

Having spent most of my younger life being around some top notch Racecar builders I have seen the common beleif of a thicker oil will protect better. We built a Dodge 440 IC engine to about 800 Horsepower. Using a standard oil pump we ran the engine on the DYNO and got a base line using a 20W50 Race oil. Then did an oil change to a street 5W30 weight oil and gained 16 HP. Then we changed to a 5W20 (Street) Mobile 1 and gained another 2 HP. Then we put the 20W50 back in and lost the 18 HP. So for the next 10 drag races, about 75 1/4 mile passes, we ran Chevron Supreme 5W30 car oil and did maybe 4 oil changes with filters too. The racing season was over so the engine was tore down and inspected, All bearing journal surfaces were in excellent shape.
These guys will spend $1000 for a 10 HP gain. So changing 8 quarts of $7 a quart Racing oil for 8 quarts of $0.89 a quart standard Car oil to gain 16 HP was a 'No Brainer' .
 
  • Like
Reactions: DarisPakar

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Mmm sounds odd. The gears are all controlled by the ECU which gets the signal from the throttle. All the ECU does is operate the stepper motor to move the variator in and out increasing or decreasing the diameter of the belt. Oil does not come into the equation apart from oiling the clutch. 10w40 is the correct oil. You could pull the stepper motor and check the teeth on the plastic gears and that they turn freely but sounds like they are ok. Cant really suggest much more as any issues in the CVT can only be examined with the unit off the bike. This is what your CVT looks like View attachment 90568
First of all if you are riding in Auto mode there should not be any gear changing at all. NONE! Only in manual mode that you must select after starting the bike, it will start in Auto mode every time.

Second, I am not sure that the "10 W 40 semi Castrol " you are using is JASO MA rated. If it does not say it "Meets JASO MA-2" then I'd not recommend it.
And if your daily temperature is between -10C to +55C the JASO MA-2 10W40 will work with no extra engine wear. We are not talking 1975's 10W40 oils.

Yes you can use 20W50 but I doubt you will get any longer life from the engine but your gas consumption will go UP a lot. Is it worth it? Not to me.

Having spent most of my younger life being around some top notch Racecar builders I have seen the common beleif of a thicker oil will protect better. We built a Dodge 440 IC engine to about 800 Horsepower. Using a standard oil pump we ran the engine on the DYNO and got a base line using a 20W50 Race oil. Then did an oil change to a street 5W30 weight oil and gained 16 HP. Then we changed to a 5W20 (Street) Mobile 1 and gained another 2 HP. Then we put the 20W50 back in and lost the 18 HP. So for the next 10 drag races, about 75 1/4 mile passes, we ran Chevron Supreme 5W30 car oil and did maybe 4 oil changes with filters too. The racing season was over so the engine was tore down and inspected, All bearing journal surfaces were in excellent shape.
These guys will spend $1000 for a 10 HP gain. So changing 8 quarts of $7 a quart Racing oil for 8 quarts of $0.89 a quart standard Car oil to gain 16 HP was a 'No Brainer' .
Th
Mmm sounds odd. The gears are all controlled by the ECU which gets the signal from the throttle. All the ECU does is operate the stepper motor to move the variator in and out increasing or decreasing the diameter of the belt. Oil does not come into the equation apart from oiling the clutch. 10w40 is the correct oil. You could pull the stepper motor and check the teeth on the plastic gears and that they turn freely but sounds like they are ok. Cant really suggest much more as any issues in the CVT can only be examined with the unit off the bike. This is what your CVT looks like View attachment 90568
Thank you, for your effort incl. Picture and advice. Norman
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Thanks to all of you. Much appreciated. I guess I'm so used to the Variator -belt driven, when backing off the throttle the scooter just "rolls" and not stepping down in gears. Thanks again for your replies, as I was thinking about the oil.
Where there a change to the 2013 till now Model ? Gear wise ? Norman
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
713 Posts
No changes apart from body styling. I know as I fitted a 2006 engine into my 2014 bike and CVT bolts straight on and the innards are the same for all CVT's. Only change was clutch so my clutch would not fit the 06 engine. Just ride and enjoy.
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Top