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Discussion Starter #1
It works! Here's some pictures: http://www.class104.com

The hardest part was the mechanical linkage. I had to fabricate a bar to connect to the throttle assembly, as all the bits and pieces that came with the CC kit to hook into the throttle could not be used. The space is cramped to work in, and this being the most critical part of the installation I did not want to screw it up. (Read: If you screw this up, you will die!) This took about 6 hours of work.

This was a two day install, and the rest of the time was trying to locate somewhere to mount the various pieces of kit safely. I finally succumbed to mounting the servo in the lower glovebox on the right side. My cell phone usually occupies this space, so I'll have to relocate the phone somewhere else.

Had I purchased the ten dollar audiovox vacuum cannister, I do not believe I'd have been able to mount it anywhere safely. I went with 2" PVC piping and a check valve from Auto-Zone and mounted it under the battery. Works just fine.

When I first tested it, I didn't think it was going to work. I tried all four Pulses per Mile setting that the unit has, and none of them worked properly. If you define working properly as cruise control only under ten miles an hour with whiplash everytime it moved the throttle as fine, then it worked properly! :shock:

So, not to be beaten after a two day installation, I started playing with other settings. I finally came upon a setting that works after reading this in the manual.

If the vehicle is a manual transmission and does not have a VSS wire, the cruise control can operate from tach signal only. Program dip switch #1 and #2 for 4000 PPM and move dip switch #3 to the OFF position and remove the black jumper to the left of the switches.

This worked way better than previously, however, when cruise was turned on and set, it did nothing but accelerate. Not a good thing. So I set switch #1 and #2 for 2000 PPM, and all worked fine!

The black jumper that is for manual transmissions allows the unit to turn off if the clutch is pulled in. It senses an increase in RPM's and shuts off the unit. It will not affect the burgman, and could also be considered a safeguard if the CVT belt snapped while the cruise control is on.

That's it!! Except just this instance, I realized I forgot to put the two screws back on the CVT filter.... So I'm going to go do that right now!
 

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Very slick Rob. One of these days I'll have to get one installed on my 400.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I said:
I realized I forgot to put the two screws back on the CVT filter.... So I'm going to go do that right now!
Whoa... Thank God for offset screwdrivers and a little patience. Didn't really want to take off the plastic again!

...and for those that are thinking, "Didn't you notice something wrong when you had two screws left at the end?" Well... No I didn't, because when I took it apart, I put the screws back into the holes they came out of so I wouldn't forget them. :shock: :shock: :shock:
 

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Kias

I salute you for a job well done :salute:

Not sure if I followed the setting procedure fully, I will have to read it again slowly.

Bummer with the missing pics - maybe they snook over into the last folder in use? I hate that sort of thing.

This is a very interesting project and I am sure will become a forum favourite.

Bravo!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
billmeek said:
Very slick Rob. One of these days I'll have to get one installed on my 400.
Thanks! I think every Burgman should have one of these! However, it's not for the faint of heart. Just figuring out how to get the cable to pull the throttle was a major undertaking. Normally, you would use that cable loop deal that you see in one of the pictures to go around the barrel at the end of the throttle cable. Only problem is there's no room for that cable to go!

I can see how the installation would go easy on other bikes, as I've never seen a barrel on the end of a throttle cable as tight as it is on the Burgman. The rest of the install was rather simple, considering it was just tubing and electrical wires, and the kit comes with little gizmos to tap into existing wires. Pretty slick overall.

I'll be writing more in the coming weeks after I see how it performs. This weekend I'm on a ten minute tether to my house. Meaning, my wife is on call for the hospital, and should someone decide to have a heart attack she has to go in, and I have to watch the kid. :) So, I only took it for small spurts on the freeway and around some longer roads, but nothing over 5 miles...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well, just did a complete search of my computer. Those pictures are not there. My wife never asks me for the camera unless I'm using it... Then she always has me transfer the pictures! Not this time, she did it herself. :D

Oh well... What settings are you referring to Norman? I've posted everything haphazardly as I'm tired, and my fingers all hurt from working in confined spaces for extremely long periods of time. I woke up this morning and every single muscle in body ached... Probably from working in Yoga type positions. Then there was the half way done period where I was starting to think this really wasn't worth it. Then the adrenalin rush when it did work. Then the huge rush of tiredness when the adrenalin went away...
 

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Kias

I was having trouble understanding what was going on here:
When I first tested it, I didn't think it was going to work. I tried all four Pulses per Mile setting that the unit has, and none of them worked properly. If you define working properly as cruise control only under ten miles an hour with whiplash everytime it moved the throttle as fine, then it worked properly!

So, not to be beaten after a two day installation, I started playing with other settings. I finally came upon a setting that works after reading this in the manual.

If the vehicle is a manual transmission and does not have a VSS wire, the cruise control can operate from tach signal only. Program dip switch #1 and #2 for 4000 PPM and move dip switch #3 to the OFF position and remove the black jumper to the left of the switches.

This worked way better than previously, however, when cruise was turned on and set, it did nothing but accelerate. Not a good thing. So I set switch #1 and #2 for 2000 PPM, and all worked fine!
.
It is not your explanation - just my head! But you did tap into VSS and you ain't picking up the signal from the tach -correct?
Here some supplementary questions:
How does that clutch circuit 'disengage' work on a manual? Can it not be tapped into the brake circuit or does cruise disengage on tapping the brake anyway?
What are the exisiting vacuum lines for that you 'teed' into - is that a part of the FI system. (I have a carb model).
How did you determine the volume you required for the vacuum reservoir - could it be smaller? (Would I need this on a carb model?).

You know Kias - you are going to be Mr Cruise! :wink:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I tapped into both the VSS and the Tach. There are four settings on the cruise control to set the Pulses Per Mile (PPM) the VSS is putting out. 2000, 4000, 5000, and 8000 PPM. None of these settings work properly. They do work, just not properly, so I'm guessing the PPM on the Burg is vastly different.

So I set the dip switches to use Tach Only, no VSS, and all is well.

The clutch disengage circuit works by sensing a rapid increase in RPM. This rapid increase in RPM tells the Cruise Control to shut off.

The Cruise control is tapped into the brake circuit, and does disengage when either brake handle is pulled. This is seperate from the clutch disengage circuit.

The vacuum lines that I teed into on the 650 are the only vacuum lines on the 650. Since the vacuum isn't used to boost brakes, we're safe to tap into it. I guess you could say the vacuum is for the FI system. Your carb should have a vacuum line somewhere to use.

The volume for the vacuum reservoir was scientifically determined by taking existing volumetric data and extrapolating the constant variables of acknowledged physical and conceptual limitations.

Yup, that's what I did! Looked at how much space I had, and made a canister that would fit!

Is it big enough? Don't know yet... I need hills to test that out. I hope it is! I don't want to tear apart the bike to put in another canister!

The Vacuum reservoir holds enough extra air to move the servo when needed. The tiny engines we have don't create enough vacuum to do this on demand. Yes, the 400 will need one. Even the GL1800 needs one. However, that big International truck in another thread would not need one.
 

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Kias said:
The volume for the vacuum reservoir was scientifically determined by taking existing volumetric data and extrapolating the constant variables of acknowledged physical and conceptual limitations.

Yup, that's what I did! Looked at how much space I had, and made a canister that would fit!
Neat! :lol: :lol:
 

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Kias said:
I tapped into both the VSS and the Tach. <snip>

So I set the dip switches to use Tach Only, no VSS, and all is well.
Burgman 400 tech experts :

Does the Burgman 400 have a tach signal to tap into like the 650 or will we be required to use a sensor and magnets to provide the required signal?
 

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billmeek said:
Burgman 400 tech experts :
Does the Burgman 400 have a tach signal to tap into like the 650 or will we be required to use a sensor and magnets to provide the required signal?
I ain't got a tach. :cry:
I dont think carburetted versions will have vacuum lines either. :cry: :cry:
 

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NormanB said:
I ain't got a tach. :cry:
I dont think carburetted versions will have vacuum lines either. :cry: :cry:
If you want to add the cruise unit, you can add magnet to the front disk and a sensor. There has to be a vacuum pump available that could be added to meet the requirements.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Ok, been lookin' at the 400 IPB @ Ronayers...

http://www.ronayers.com/fiche/300_0350/ ... trical.cfm

You'll want to tap into number 9 on the negative side to use for your cruise control. This is your ignition coil. Which everyone here seems to be calling it the "Tach"




Carburetors do have a vacuum. Vacuums are not created by pumps in engines. (Well some are, but that's a different story) The vacuum, or negative pressure, or pressure not, or anti-pressure, or reciprocated pressure is developed in a venturi usually located in your intake throat.

http://www.ronayers.com/fiche/300_0350/ ... e_body.cfm

Looking at this picture, I'd venture to guess that hose #24 is your vacuum line.

Easy way to check...

Pull the hose off, stick finger on end. If it sucks, it's vacuum (and your engine might cease to work if you're not quick enough), if it blows... not vacuum... If gas comes spewing out all over the place, I'd highly recommend you get a professional to install your cruise control.

Also, take confort in knowing you also have a Fuel Injector. Seen as #20 in the above diagram. If you had a true carb, you'd have a choke lever somewhere, and a manual fuel shutoff valve, float bowls, etc...

Also, looking at:

http://www.ronayers.com/fiche/300_0350/ ... ometer.cfm



However (Comma) I wound up not using it. Well, I'm not entirely sure I'm not using it, as I haven't disconnected it to verify this. The instruction manual that came with the CC unit isn't exactly written so anyone could use it.
 

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Great info. Thanks a bunch Rob!
 

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I've been following this thread and read your excellent review in the reviews section. So now I have a few questions:

When the cruise control compensates for varying terrain, does the throttle "roll" under your hand. In other words would a normal grip restrict the servo?

I noticed you mounted your control to the left side of the bar. Was this preference or would there be any caveats to installing it on the right side?

I used to design and wire motor control circuits and mobile power distribution systems. I now service, repair, and modify KC-135 aircraft. Do I need to be signed off on more stuff prior to attempting this install myself? :D
 

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SilverBurgie said:
I noticed you mounted your control to the left side of the bar. Was this preference or would there be any caveats to installing it on the right side?
I'd guess the main issue would be setting the cruise while maintaining speed. It'd be much easier to set the cruise control with the left hand while keeping a firm grip on the throttle rather than reaching with the right thumb to set it.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
SilverBurgie said:
When the cruise control compensates for varying terrain, does the throttle "roll" under your hand. In other words would a normal grip restrict the servo?
It does move, but a normal grip doesn't restrict it. Your grip tends to lighten a whole lot once the cruise is on anyway.

SilverBurgie said:
I noticed you mounted your control to the left side of the bar. Was this preference or would there be any caveats to installing it on the right side?
What Bill said, but it's still your choice. You could put the controls inside the trunk if you wanted. Wouldn't do much good, but you could.


SilverBurgie said:
I used to design and wire motor control circuits and mobile power distribution systems. I now service, repair, and modify KC-135 aircraft. Do I need to be signed off on more stuff prior to attempting this install myself? :D
I hope you also have your FCC General Radio Operator's License with the Radar Endorsement, or you might have a rough time! :shock: :D :lol:
 

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Tach signal

:?: Does anyone know what the wire color is for taking the tachometer signal? Kias posted a great picture of the wire bundle that he tapped into, but I can't tell what color the wire is that he connected to. He says that it's the negative side of the #1 coil. Is that the orange/white or the white/blue wire? :?:

Thanks,
Rick
 

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Cruise Control Install

I used the Orange with white wire the same place in the cable that Kias did. After going nut's reading the manual diagram from the cd and printing it. Thats what it shows is the ground. But mine doesn't work. Everthing checks out ok, just no modulation movement it doesn't even try. Using a meter it looks like I'm getting pules on the blue wire off the coil ground (orange with white strip). All switches to off except #7 it's on. This is what supposed to have work for Kias. I don't have the Grey wire hook up since the swithes are set to use tack (coil). Back in 78 I put one of these on a car and you could jumper two pins to find out if the modulator worked. Called the Hot line #, it said service till 7pm but doesn't give you a service option to select. Do I still need to hook the Grey wire to something? Can any body offer a helpful hand, or answer? I'll give the online site a shot, on how to test the modulator, but don't hold out much hope for that. I had a 275mi. trip planned Sunday and it would have been nice to have.
 
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