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Hello all,

Having bought a Burg, 2006 model back in 2013, I was thrilled at the idea of making commuting a lot cheaper here in Europe, especially Holland, where I live.

First months were great, loads of fun with the Burg despite my earlier reservations coming from a Kawa GPZ1000RX.

But then it happened, I was on the freeway, overtaking a bus and a truck when all of a sudden the Burg dipped in RPM, I squeezed the gas handle, it picked up about 1000RPM and then shut down completely. Realizing the predicament I was in (on the left line, no longer overtaking the semi and a tourbus right behind me) I flipped the alarm lights, waved to the bus driver and indicated my desire to get off the left and right lane, onto the hard shoulder. The bus driver recognized the signals (or so I think) and braked slowly, allowing me to run-out behind the semi onto the relative safety of the hard shoulder.

I tried to start the Burg and although it was turning over, it sounded like no compression. Later inspection buy the road-help turned out fruitless and my Burg was taken away to a local, befriended, garage.

Starting out my own research on the internet (and this forum) as well as letting the garage open her up, it was soon found that there was very little oil in the sump, a lot of oil in the air filter box and the pistion had seized in the cylinder necessitating the replacement of both.

All in all, roughly $1300 spend on a new cylinder, piston, disassembly and assembly but she rides again, leaving me with a big hole in my expenses to plug before she makes me money again compared to my car :).

As the mechanic as a friend, he made me a good offer on the price as well as installing KFir's fix to oil aspiration. As my search found, when riding the Burg (2003 - 2006 models) somewhere near or over 7000RPM for prolonged periods, it can start to transfer oil via the crankcase vent into the airbox instead of simply be a "vent" for oil vapours being produced in the crankcase.

So, with everything nicely new and shiny, I began my breaking-in period of 500 miles no higher then 4000RPM and after that, an additional 500 miles no higher then 6000RPM.
Ofcourse I'm not really happy about this as the Burg will only do about 37Mph because of its CVT. It seems that Suzuki is recommending this run-in period on every bike (looked at several manuals).

What is your opinion, should I keep to what Suzuki prescribes or are there other run-in methods (except that one from the racing bikes stating to go full throttle the first 25 miles or so) since all the other components already have 18000km (11000 miles) on them. I'm keen to learn other experiences.

Thanks for reading!
 

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Whatever method you use, keep a close eye on the oil level, ESPECIALLY during highway runs. Essentially every time you gas up and, top off the oil as needed. Mine didn't stop this until finally seating in at around 10,000 miles. Since then, I've had no issue with oil consumption and it's not uncommon for me to go between oil changes without having to add.
 

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Leon,

You have almost word for word told my story with my 400. The only difference was that after my piston seized, it would still start and run, just not fast. Amazingly cost about the same price too. Did not run the same after being repared so I sold it off. Mine happened at about 18,000 miles. You really have to check your oil on the pre-06 400s, especially at high rpms.
 
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