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I have just about 60K miles on my Burgman. I noticed a leak coming from the thermostat and lower hose so I will be replacing them all. I am also getting a miss. I checked the spark plug. It is about 3K miles old and looks dry and brown. I have been burning through the plugs at about 7K mile intervals. When I say burning through, I mean the electrode is gone. All the way down to the porcelain. I am thinking my coil is going out. I spent another $250 in parts, including the coil, from deland suzuki (they still seem to be the cheapest). Spent $350 last month which included a belt, clutch, and bearings. Shipping will take a bit since it has to go from CA to FL back to CA but oh well. This is still the lowest priced maintenance per mile of all my vehicles so I ain't griping.

I might start looking for a newer 400. Most of the ones for sale by non-dealers are the 2007's and under. The newer ones get bought pretty quick.
 

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The only major repair I have had on my 2008 400 Burgy..was when I changed the rollers for DPS 18 gram sliders........and apparently did NOT snug up the front pully nut........!!!!! 3 days later while riding - I heard a grinding noise and the RPM goes up to about 7,000 at 30 MPH AND...........I said "I got trouble!"......
Got a tow back home and tore the transmission apart - HOLY CRAP!!!!!! The nut had come off - belt was trash - and the finned cover on the front pully had spun thru the outer aluminum case. THAT experience cost me about $1,300 to rectify!! Lesson to be learned: make sure that the front pully nut is torqued correctly....... :( :(
 

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After I changed the belt the first time, I realized you have to get the belt all the way out of the front pulley to tighten it up. Luckily I kept the cover off and started it up. Saw the front pulley kinda wobbling. Learned how to tighten that up the right way from people here. Thanks!

I have been doing the preventative maintenance all along since I use it strictly for commuting. The spark plug thing has me stumped. Now I am just trying random stuff in hopes of getting it solved.
 

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utter chaos said:
After I changed the belt the first time, I realized you have to get the belt all the way out of the front pulley to tighten it up. Luckily I kept the cover off and started it up. Saw the front pulley kinda wobbling. Learned how to tighten that up the right way from people here. Thanks!

I have been doing the preventative maintenance all along since I use it strictly for commuting. The spark plug thing has me stumped. Now I am just trying random stuff in hopes of getting it solved.
I did all of that too........!!!!! Let it run for 5 minutes with cover off. :( :(
 

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FWIW I have been running an NGK iridium plug (p/n 7385, '07 uses the same plug) for 15k miles--it looked almost like new last time I had it out, with around 13k on it...
 

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I just did a quick check on the Internet and this is what it says...

[attachment=0:26fvpe01]Sparkplug.JPG[/attachment:26fvpe01]

Perhaps that will help.

Chris
 

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utter chaos said:
Thanks. I will give it a try after the coil replacement. I have been using the stock NGK plug and tried the hotter 8 plug with the same results so far.
A hotter plug will aggravate electrode erosion, you needed a cooler plug...

[edit]

I forgot, NGK's heat range numbers run backwards, an NGK "8" is a colder plug than a "7"...

[/edit]
 

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Burned plug- I would guess running lean. Why? Hmmmm it's fuel injected..... With carb bikes you can change the jetting. With FI, I'm out of ideas, sorry :( Hope you get it running soon
 

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Could be running too lean. For FI, check temp/coolant sensor, O2 sensor. If either is bad, the FI computer could be fooled.
 
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