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My 2009 Burger 400 stalls when it's warming up. It doesn't happen right when I first start it. It happens after the choke has come down a bit, and it continues until the bike reaches full operating temperature. It is intermittent, it doesn't happen every time. When the stalling does happen, it happens regardless of whether I'm gassing it, and it stalls even if I'm in motion. When the bike does it, it may stall perhaps 6 times until it reaches operating temperature. If it starts happening, I just keep restarting the bike, praying that the battery holds out.
Any ideas what it could be and how to fix it? One friend suggested the throttle body. If it's too hard a fix, maybe I just carry a jumper pack. Thanks.
 

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I had a problem with a varying idle and stalling out at low speeds. I changed the spark plug, sprayed some throttle body cleaner on the throttle plate and added some fuel system cleaner. I dont know what had the desired effect but it went away. I think the secondary throttle valve actuator STVA is very sensitize to crud building up. Now I always add Star Tron enzyme fuel treatment when I fill up. One ounce treats 6 gallons of fuel so a bottle will last you a long time.

 

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I like to start with the simple things, so as Uncle noted, try some fuel system/injector cleaner, check the plug, and check to make sure the battery terminals are tight - may not be the problem but a loose terminal has caused many-a intermittent headache on every type of bike.
 

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And when that doesn't help, here's the list from the FSM. They don't distinguish stalling while warming up so you'll have to sort through some things that might not apply to your situation.
89938
 

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Another thought, since it's intermittent...could be a faulty sensor, or it's also possible it could be a bad electrical connection in one of the myriad connectors to the sensors, engine or ECM. If there's not major corrosion or other damage, disconnecting and reconnecting will usually fix that problem.

And no need to look for a choke problem...since it's fuel injected A/F mixture is controlled by the ECM.
 

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Took my 2016 for a 150 mile ride Friday through the Lake Mead recreational area. Temperature outside got up to 102 at one point. When I got back my scoot will not hold an idle again and will stall. Was fine before the ride. When I get the chance I'm going to remove the air filter and clean the throttle plate. May adjust the idle up a bit.

Interesting that the above diagnostic page states a bad thermostat could cause an engine stall.
 

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Took my 2016 for a 150 mile ride Friday through the Lake Mead recreational area. Temperature outside got up to 102 at one point. When I got back my scoot will not hold an idle again and will stall. Was fine before the ride. When I get the chance I'm going to remove the air filter and clean the throttle plate. May adjust the idle up a bit.

Interesting that the above diagnostic page states a bad thermostat could cause an engine stall.
I could see an ecm reacting to a thermostat, since the ecm determines fuel flow and firing when a bike is cold or warmed up. If it saw a closed thermostat and high level of temp, it would know there was a monkey in the tree somewhere.
 
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Spooker, have you had it up on center stand and held the throttle open a little to see if it would stay running?
I don't know if this is right, but i read that if you didn't let the gages do their full sweep before attempting to start, it kinda fogged up the ecu brain a bit, grasping at straws here cause i like a cheap and easy fix!
 
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I went out to the garage today and the big problem with my bike dying at idle is the secondary throttle position sensor and the secondary throttle valve actuator. Once I disconnected the sensor and opened the throttle plate manually it started up and ran fine. Only problem is the FI light stays on. I'm going to see what I can do.
 

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Didn't Mitch have a solution for that in one of his videos? Throttle plate, not light.
 

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I look at that video again. Went out and put everything back the way it was. Performed the throttle relearn procedure with the tech toggle switch. Seems ok now. It's just one of the 2007-2016 Burgmans Achilles heels. Hope they fixed it on the 2018-2020 models.

Another thing. That air filter cover is a PITA. I can never get the three clips to match in the rear. Today I clipped the clips off the cover to keep me from going insane. It was that or cut the frame member above the air box off. I think I made a good choice of the two!
 
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The stva is a huge design flaw. I have it as well. Opened up inside the control unit.plastic garbage gears seem to wear out

One thing I do is use a bit of grease on thw prongs of the cover and just a bit on the latches on the air box. I also use a thin layer on the inside. It slides in well.
Use a flash to light down the rear behind the grey chassis cross support. Its easy to see the prongs slide into the 3 latches. Dont try looking from the filter box side. Look from the back.
Pis*ses me all the knows issues the burgman has. The fact you cant buy an stva unit and paying $550 is quite thieving
 

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My 2008 is giving me idle problems, it is code c40, which is ISC, see my other thread, can you retrieve code(s) for yours? It's not hard to do.
 
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