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Discussion Starter #1
Like it says I adjusted the valves this morning; 60.5k miles on the scoot', 30k miles since i last got in there.

The intakes were a bit loose at 0.007", tightened 'em up to 0.004". One exhaust valve was right on the money at 0.008" the other was a bit tight at 0.006"--made that one 0.008" as well...
 

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So if they were all within the specs, still had better to be adjusted to have exactly same gap?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The intakes were not within specification, the spec is 0.003" to 0.005" (0.08 to 0.13 mm)--at 0.007" they were pretty "loose". The exhaust spec is 0.007" to 0.009" (0.17 to 0.22 mm), so one was just a bit tight at 0.006". The engine is much quieter now.

It is best to have the two as close as is practical...
 

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Cliff, Thanks for the update. I love reading about your Burgman 400 since it gives me hope that I too, will be able to reach 60k miles someday. Question, do you use regular or synthetic 10W40 oil? And which brand?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I run Valvolne's 10W-40 4-stroke dino juice in the cooler months (November through April here), and 20W-50 in the summer--$3.98 a quart at Walmart. The SF/SG/SJ rating is not really relevant to the '400 as it does not have a wet clutch, automotive spec oil would be fine--but it only needs 2 quarts so WTH.

I change it every 2000 to 2200 miles (oil is cheaper than engines), and change the filter every other oil change. You could perhaps run it a 3000 to 3500 if it were synthetic, but not enough longer to justify paying over twice as much--IMHO.

I use Valvoline's MaxLife blend, 10W-40 in my wife's '03 Highlander; changed at 3500 intervals--and Mobil M1 (sometimes Pennzoil synthetic, 10W-40 in my '98 SL500. That gets changed once a year (5000 miles give or take), but it holds 8.5 qts and has an enormous drop-in cartridge filter--MB says 7500 miles but I cannot bring myself to do it...
 

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Interesting service schedule. I admit I was a little bit suprised to hear you just use good old conventional oil instead of regular. The manual calls for an oil change every 3,500 miles but you do it around 2000-2500 miles. True, oil is cheaper than an engine. Is Suzuki's change interval not aggressive enough?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
This may come as a shock, however Suzuki's recommendations are not based upon the motor lasting as long as it possibly can--that would not be in their best interest, and if they specified 2000 to 2500 mile oil changes they would be crucified by buyers and the motorcycle press.

There is no doubt that synthetic motor oils have many characteristics that are superior to conventional oils--however for 99.44% of consumer applications it is irrelevant as the engines in those applications are no where near being stressed to the extent that those superior attributes are necessary--especially if you change the oil each 2500 to 3000 miles.

I have done this for 50+ years and my wife and I routinely drive our cars to 250k miles or more, the record setters being a 1985 Corolla sedan I purchased new that had 386k when I traded it for a '94 Corolla wagon in 1998; and her '89 Celica GT that turned 372k (with a speedometer that didn't work for nearly a year) when we traded it on the 2003 Highlander she has now (185k miles as of Friday).

My '88 Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 had 203k when I sold it in July of 2011--Here is a photo of the odometer in my 1990 Miata when it made it to the moon:



At that point (August 2004) it had been supercharged for 160k miles, and never run anything but Valvoline MaxLife 20W-40 dino juice:



I sold it in April of 2007 with 2998k, the new owner ran it to over 340k when he decided to rebuild the entire car.

I do run synthetic in the Mercedes as it does not get driven much (< 5k a year) and it costs $20k to $25k to buy a rebuilt engine--$32,452.40 for a factory long block...
 

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What about a run-in period, should the oil be changed sooner than the first two recommended mileage marks?
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
What about a run-in period, should the oil be changed sooner than the first two recommended mileage marks?
I likely would, however I have not purchased a new motorcycle since 1988, and no new cars since 1985. I did "build" the engine in my 2003 Mustang GT and changed the oil at 100, 250 and 1000 miles just to be sure.

It is quite unlikely I will ever buy a new vehicle ever again, and it could very well be those we have now are the ones we will be driving untill they tell us we can no longer drive...
 

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WOW, 250k miles or more. In the past 20 years all the cars and bikes I have owned I have not put that much on them all, sounds like you get around.
 

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Amazing testimony from a great Burgman friend. You opened my eyes to the reason why Suzuki says 3500. It really should be 2000-2500 miles. Thanks Cliff. I too use regular Chevron 10W40. I'll be changing my oil around 2500 miles now instead of the 3500.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
We always buy clean used 3 to 4 year old, higher mileage vehicles (the ones dealers have just taken in trade and are likely to be wholesaling off as they interfere with selling new cars) and keep them a long time, usually 10+ years, and for 20 years I was Administrator of the Florida state health laboratory. With labs in Jacksonville, Pensacola, Tampa, Miami and Lantana it kept me on the road a lot. But at $0.44 a mile reimbursement I'd drive 12 hours a day if they wanted me to.

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When looking for a car stop by some dealerships and ask them to let you know if they get what you are interested in as a trade. They will, as they know it might be a quick sale and probably more then they'll get at auction...
 

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Do you check valves every 3500 miles and change the final drive oil every 7500 like the manual says to? Or do you do it sooner?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Do you check valves every 3500 miles and change the final drive oil every 7500 like the manual says to? Or do you do it sooner?
I adjusted (adjusting and checking are the same thing to me--if you check and they need adjusting then do it) the valves at 15k, then 30k, and again just the other day at 60.5k. However I have been listening to engines for long enough to know when tappets are not properly adjusted, that's why I opened it up this time.

At 15k I checked because I had just got the 'scoot, at 30k I checked because I wanted to see what the wear rate was like, and at 60.5k I checked because the engine was getting a bit noisy.

I do the final drive oil every time I open up the CVT, every 3500 to 5000 miles give or take...
 

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cliffyk are you implying that the 400's valves get looser as they wear instead of tighter? That would be a good thing, in my opinion.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
cliffyk are you implying that the 400's valves get looser as they wear instead of tighter? That would be a good thing, in my opinion.
Nope, I have seen them go both ways--however that said I have found that often intake valve clearances get looser (because of cam and follower wear with little change in the valve's seating position) and exhaust valves tighter (because the vales seats more deeply as the face and seat erode, and that closes up the "looseness" from cam and follower wear).

It is important for any machine you plan on owning long term to get a base "feel" for the way it sounds and operates (vibrations/etc). Armed with that and your ears and butt you can tell when something has changed and the magnitude/severity of the change.

It was that the engine in my 400 had become noisier (intake valve clatter as it turned out) that I determined to adjust the valves last Sunday--the intakes were loose, the exhaust valves one spot on and one tight...
 

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So Clifffyk, you are saying to change the oil more frequently than Suzuki recommends, but check the valves less often than they say?
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
So Clifffyk, you are saying to change the oil more frequently than Suzuki recommends, but check the valves less often than they say?
Nope, never said any such thing. I related how I do it--armed with many years of tending the the needs of ICEs.

As to Suzi's recommendations keep in mind that they are in partnership with the dealers; and the more frequently owners that cannot turn their own wrenches bring their bike to the dealer. the more frequently the dealer can charge an absurd amount of $$ for giving the bike a full day of "fresh air & sunshine".

You do not really believe that when an average owner brings their bike in for the 600 (4000, 7500 or whatever) mile checkup they actually pull the seat, tupperware and cam cover, and check the valve clearance?
 

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Is it necessary to change the two o-rings every time with a 2000 mile oil change schedule?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Is it necessary to change the two o-rings every time with a 2000 mile oil change schedule?
For the oil filter/coverplate? Heck no, I have changed them maybe 4 times in the 48k miles I've had the scoot. If they are damaged, look distorted, or have hardened change them, otherwise they'll be fine.

Some oil filters come with new ones...
 
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