Suzuki Burgman USA Forum banner

1 - 20 of 28 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hope someone can help
last week the abs light didn’t go when I moved off.
after a mile I pulled over, switched off and on restarted pulled off and abs light went off as normal.
used it couple of times all ok.
then today, abs came back on, but the f1 light came on, seemed to limit speed to around 40/50 mph. Stopped restarted still the same plus when stopped it was struggling to run. Switched off again then still f1 and abs lights but stuck in probably 1st gear with max of 25mph.
have got the code c51, which most to do with cvt motor but can’t make sense why abs also.
help / advice please.
it 2009 if that makes a difference, one last this the middle oil chamber was leaking oil from the drain bolt for a week, I tightened it up but is there a sensor for low oil that would trigger c51 code and the above.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,068 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,261 Posts
Not sure they are linked. My abs light does it every morning I pull the bike out of the workshop hit 3mph it goes off. I get off close the workshop its back on. I switch off restart it goes off. I live with it. As for c51 this may help
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
14,316 Posts
The ABS light and the FI code are not related other than both are set by the ECM. The C51 code says there is a problem with the electrical current supplied to the CVT motor. The voltage is supplied by the ECM. The fail-safe mode for that code causes the motor to stay in the last ratio it was in. That is why you seem to be stuck in the same gear. The ABS light just tells you that there is a problem in the ABS system. The ECM keeps it on if it detects a fault in the ABS system.

If we assume that there is a common issue that is causing both your FI and ABS indications then logic would imply that the problem is in the ECM or the connections to the ECM. First thing I would do is check the plug going into the ECM to insure it is properly connected. If it appears to be tight than unplug it and replug it. While it is unplugged check to see if it has any corrosion and clean if necessary.
 
  • Like
Reactions: maccecht

·
Administrator
Joined
·
20,701 Posts
The 650's ECM is up front between the headlights. A small hand can fit up there with some harsh words about the Engineers and their offspring.

It is held in a boxed bracket with a 2-3mm thick rubber band and they do snap sometimes.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
14,316 Posts
Yes the rubber straps do deteriorate and then break leaving the ECM to bounce around in the tray. The bouncing can loosen the plug. Mine did that long ago. I replaced the strap with a large Zip tie to hold the ECM securely in place.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for your help so far. The plugs to the ecu look all good but as suggested I will unplug and replug to rule that out. As far as the abs, does the rear sensor also act as the speedo sensor? Ie on the centre stand when I rev it shows speed or is there a separate speedo pick up. If not does this mean it will be my front abs sensor?
Thanks again
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
14,316 Posts
There is a separate speed sensor that works off one of the gears in the final drive. It is attached to the top of the final drive.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
There is a separate speed sensor that works off one of the gears in the final drive. It is attached to the top of the final drive.
Thanks for the quick reply, shame as that means it could be either sensor. If it’s the sensor at all.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,261 Posts
Concentrate on the C51 first the ABS is secondary as the brakes will work fine just not the ABS. The C51 on the other hand stops you popping down to the shops
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
14,316 Posts
On the C51, if the connection at the ECM is good the the next step would be to check the inline connection on the plug going to the CVT motor. To access it your probably going to have pull the front box off. That is a bit of a job. If you've not done it before and don't have a manual check the instructions in LeDude's Burgmam Center.
 
  • Like
Reactions: maccecht

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
On the C51, if the connection at the ECM is good the the next step would be to check the inline connection on the plug going to the CVT motor. To access it your probably going to have pull the front box off. That is a bit of a job. If you've not done it before and don't have a manual check the instructions in LeDude's Burgmam Center.
Hi thanks for the advice. What are you meaning by the front box?

So far I have taken off the front panel that has the 2 small side cubby holes. So I can see the ECM easily and their plugs.
This is my 3rd burg I’ve had 2003, 2006 and now this one. So know my way around them reasonably well. But never had a F1 or abs fault on them before.Grrrrr
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
14,316 Posts
The front box is the piece that covers the tunnel area and contains the locking glove box.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Dave_J

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
On the C51, if the connection at the ECM is good the the next step would be to check the inline connection on the plug going to the CVT motor. To access it your probably going to have pull the front box off. That is a bit of a job. If you've not done it before and don't have a manual check the instructions in LeDude's Burgmam Center.
Hi thanks for the advice. What are you meaning by the front box?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Update and more help please.....
Removed Tupperware, unplugged cvt plug from ecu and plugged back in F1 came up again. Although will switch between auto and manual, it say it goes into 2nd but no change in drive ie tops out at 20mph, so don’t think it is changing.
I have removed the motor and tested it with 12v and spins as I would expect. Also looks clean as does the tunnel where it goes in. I’ve also removed the other sensor below the cvt motor that people has spoken about again looks clean and inside the springy bit on it moves in and out freely, how do I test it? What else do I do/ test. Thanks guys. I have photos but can’t see any way to add photos?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I have just tested the sensor which I believe called the pps. It measure from .12 through to 1.90 when compressed and depressed. From what I can see that is also ok? I’ve not tested the centre stand but could this cause a F1 light? Whilst I know it would keep it in 1st I’m surprised but the F1 light.
hopefully someone can shed some light on it...... thanks
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
14,316 Posts
Your stuck in gear because of the C51 code. The center stand switch would not cause the code. The ECM has a set of limp home defaults it sets based on the code; For the C51 code the default is that it inhibits shifting. So until you get the C51 code resolved it will not shift.

You said you applied voltage to the motor and it ran. Did you reverse the voltage and make sure it turned in the opposite direction. If it does not turn both ways or the resistance through the motor is less than 0.8 ohms then you have a bad CVT motor.

Next insert the prongs on a voltage meter into the back of the CVT coupler plug coming from the ECM. Disconnect the coupler for the center stand switch. With the bike on the center stand start the engine. With the CVT in auto mode check that voltage on the wire changes as the engine speed is increased. If not then you either have a bad connection at the ECM or the ECM is bad.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Your stuck in gear because of the C51 code. The center stand switch would not cause the code. The ECM has a set of limp home defaults it sets based on the code; For the C51 code the default is that it inhibits shifting. So until you get the C51 code resolved it will not shift.

You said you applied voltage to the motor and it ran. Did you reverse the voltage and make sure it turned in the opposite direction. If it does not turn both ways or the resistance through the motor is less than 0.8 ohms then you have a bad CVT motor.

Next insert the prongs on a voltage meter into the back of the CVT coupler plug coming from the ECM. Disconnect the coupler for the center stand switch. With the bike on the center stand start the engine. With the CVT in auto mode check that voltage on the wire changes as the engine speed is increased. If not then you either have a bad connection at the ECM or the ECM is bad.
Hi thanks for that information, the motor does run both ways easily and freely, however I’m only getting about .3 to .4 ohms across the motor.
can you explain why this means the motor is bad as it is clearly working both ways? Thanks
 
1 - 20 of 28 Posts
Top