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Very true, but in a panic stop, it seems that a human is much more apt to fail but could be wrong.
No doubt. The trick is to minimize the needs for panic stops.

My last fiancee claimed I was wrong all of the time which is the reason I replaced her with a dog..
There are at least two jokes in there....but I'm going to resist :)
 

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UPDATE 2:
On the way home yesterday to pull the two front calipers I thought about the symptoms and the reference to the dealer wanting to replace the brake leaver. So instead of pulling the calipers and taking them to the dealer to be rebuilt I pulled the brake leaver instead. When I remove the bolt I put it into the leaver to see how it rotated. And it stuck. Looking at the bolt is showed evidence of both galling (material build up) and scoring (scratching). I ordered another bolt, and in the mean time I cleaned the old one, light coat of grease, and I'll ride with that until the new one gets here (special order).
 

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UPDATE 2:
On the way home yesterday to pull the two front calipers I thought about the symptoms and the reference to the dealer wanting to replace the brake leaver. So instead of pulling the calipers and taking them to the dealer to be rebuilt I pulled the brake leaver instead. When I remove the bolt I put it into the leaver to see how it rotated. And it stuck. Looking at the bolt is showed evidence of both galling (material build up) and scoring (scratching). I ordered another bolt, and in the mean time I cleaned the old one, light coat of grease, and I'll ride with that until the new one gets here (special order).
Regular lubing of that bolt is a maintenance item.
 

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Good morning , own 650 exec 2011 in white

Asking politely for help , abs problem as previously referred to by posters , front lever solid , no braking action , whilst stationary force lever back to handlebar and some braking action resumes .

I live in uk , bike lives in Turkey , only 10 weeks a year use .

Where is abs pump situated.

Is it accessible , what needs removing

Are all year abs pumps on this model the same

Any special tools needed

Is it a big job to remove , i am thinking of buying a second hand unit , having it rebuilt in uk and take it over to Turkey to fit .

Many thanks in advance

Bike has done 24000 miles in total . Have no idea of service history but seems in very good condition

Steve
 

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Whew, good thang that video dint have a motorsickle in it!
 

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If you have ABS you might want to change the fluid often. Some say every 2 years, I'm changing mine every year. If you have the dreaded 'concrete' lever, I believe it is because the ABS units valves are sticking. This is an open system & should not have a restriction. If you have a rock solid lever with no flow, tape or tie wrap the lever whilst squeezing it. Let it sit for hours & keep scinching it up till the lever touches the handlebar. Remove the tie wrap & let the master cylinder fill. You should be able to force the fluid out at that point with a strong grip. Keep bleeding, keep adding fluid...it should be fine.
 

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Good morning , own 650 exec 2011 in white

Asking politely for help , abs problem as previously referred to by posters , front lever solid , no braking action , whilst stationary force lever back to handlebar and some braking action resumes .

I live in uk , bike lives in Turkey , only 10 weeks a year use .

Where is abs pump situated.

Is it accessible , what needs removing

Are all year abs pumps on this model the same

Any special tools needed

Is it a big job to remove , i am thinking of buying a second hand unit , having it rebuilt in uk and take it over to Turkey to fit .

Many thanks in advance

Bike has done 24000 miles in total . Have no idea of service history but seems in very good condition

Steve
Your ABS valves are still stuck. Use 'moderate' force on the lever. Put a tie wrap on the lever & give it hours to open up slowly. As soon as the master cylinder will pump you will need to get new fluid in the system. Clean & grease caliper pistons & all pivot points with brake grease. Bleed system.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
The ABS unit is virtually inaccessible. Inside the frame; above the engine and below the glove box. You have to remove everything to get to the mounting and hose nuts. Radiator and hoses included.

The issue is corrosion caused when the brake fluid absorbs water, as it does, and leads to corrossion inside the ABS unit itself. The failure mode is to block the lines. I still have my old unit sealed up for inspection if the NTSB ever requests it.

Flush your brake fluid at least every two years (as recommended in the service manual) or sooner. And before it starts turning color. Brake fluid should remain clear. Honey or darker color indicates it has absorbed water.

I have had no issues since replacing the ABS unit; albeit with a used one. The part is still not available last I checked. I have not checked the history of the part number as to what model years it applies to.

At least glad to hear it has not been a rampant problem. Enough to force an investigation and recall like in Harley's. But then again, suspect there were many more Harleys sold than Suzuki with ABS units. I have since verified the Suzuki ABS part is the same manufacturer as the recalled Harley one. Not sure how many manufactures of ABS units for bikes there may be. Ride safe.
 

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Posting this mostly so others are aware if they see these issues. I lost my brakes while riding. The action was the opposite of a piston/cup failure in the master cylinder (which happened on my old bike but came on more slowly). In that case, you squeeze the handle fully and get no braking action. With the ABS Unit failure, you cannot squeeze the handle and get no braking action. No warning, no indicator, no clue this is what had happened. Just started mid ride. Scary to say the least.

At first I thought it was simply the "handle issue". I ride a lot in rain since coming east; see a lot more of it than in California. So every three months, when it starts to cause problems, I take the handles off and lightly sand down the piston head, brake handle where it contacts the piston head, and the screw holding the handle. Clean everything out. Then I lightly grease everything and put it back together (using dry grease now after giving up on lithium white and black, silicon, graphite, etc). Did that but it did not fix the issue. Still could not squeeze the handle. Hmmm.

So decided it had been awhile since I flushed the brake lines. Fluid was more honey colored than not. When trying to flush, I could not pull more than a teaspoon out of each front brake at the wheel. Double Hmmm.

Removed the top hose from the Master Cylinder and the handle freed up and easily got liquid squirting out when depressing the handle. Even with the hose off at the top, could not draw fluid out the bottom. Triple Hmmm.

Took the bike to a former Suzuki dealer and they basically did the same things and came to the same conclusion I did (i.e. threw their hands up). So I took it to a Suzuki dealer.

They took off all the hoses and blew air through them all. There were no kinks in any hoses (metal or rubber) or any evidence of any failure, wear or other detrimental condition with them. That left the ABS Hydraulic Unit as the likely source. They had hooked up to the harness and cycled the unit but it did not free up and unblock the line. Their Hydraulic Unit part cost to me was $1600. Suzuki website is $1200. But most places do not have it available as it is. The repair shop foreman had been there 20+ years and never heard of a failure of the unit (granted, they have not been available on the bikes for that long). He also was surprised the failure mode was to close the line.

In the end, I decided to go with a used Hydraulic Unit (since they never seem to fail, right?). Once replaced, everything is perfectly fine. (note: getting the old metal hoses off the old unit is near impossible. Be ready to replace some of those lines as well. Luckily the used unit came with the three short metal hoses.)

This bike is a 2007 with only 30,000 miles. Most miles by me but my miles only since 2013 when I replaced my other Burg 650 after being hit (and not having ABS). Bike is garaged. Did have the cooling hoses start to bleed last summer and had to replace them; a first for me even with an aged bike. Attributed it to the east coast weather. Otherwise, this has been a solid and reliable bike like my last one.

So if you find your brake handle stuck so you cannot close it, and you have confirmed it is not simply the handle getting dirt, then be aware the ABS unit could be the failure point. And of course, always be aware it could fail at any point and so ride with the appropriate caution to avoid hard braking; where you can use engine braking and boots with good tread for that final stopping action ;)
As mentioned, for me, the handle getting grime where it contacts the master cylinder piston head exhibits a similar problem. Albeit not so dramatic, sudden, and complete a failure. So make sure to clean that well before zeroing in on the ABS unit. Also look for kinks in brake lines; or any other failure of the hose.

With that said, the age is right for your bike to maybe exhibit the same issue. Although I changed my brake fluid, it had gotten "honey" colored instead of being clear as when new.

I reported the issue to NHTSA. If more of you have it diagnosed to a failure of the ABS unit, report your issue also. NHTSA needs a substantial number of reported similar issues before they will open / expand an investigation. Maybe they can track it to a common manufacturer of the ABS Hydraulic Unit and not just a bike model. While the part is old now, and many do not likely follow the "recommended" frequency of flushing the brake fluid and changing the brake lines, the failure is so dramatic and sudden that a recall on a poor design may be called for due to safety.
Same issue with my 2012 Burgman Ex. Handle locking up, squeeze super hard, then it frees up. Problem.
Bought with 30,000 miles on it, had this issue then, left it alone thinking the lever was sticking. Also let this scooter get rained on and all that.
Issue has gotten much worse. Have had the Burgman two years now. Dealer has never heard of this problem. Suggested bleeding front breaks. Issue persists. Basically flushed the brake fluid, which I believe is the cause here. Old brake fluid corroding hydraulic unit.
Very scary when it didn't just unlock like before. Was riding a bit sporty, heading for a T stop.
Hard to say if a recall will happen. Not enough noted issues. However, locking out the handle as default, crazy. That needs to change. Many owners will neglect flushing brake fluid. This should not put them in danger, due to the braking system locking out the lever. Feel free to try mine. It will quickly convince anyone this is not safe.
Sadly, if Suzuki does not continue the 650 in the future, thinking there will be no change in the hydraulic unit design. Used units may be the only solution. Hopefully the prior owner did regular brake fluid changes.
 

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Welcome to the forums and also thanks for using the search functions.

This could be the ABS unit but it also could be a simple item to check.

On the bottom of the brake lever is a 10mm nut. Remove that nut. Then use a flat tip screwdriver and remove the bolt that holds the brake lever on. Clean all the pivot areas well of all crud and corrosion.

Grease the lever contact areas and that bolt. and put it back together. Do both sides, it takes 15-20 minutes for both.

Brake Levers.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Agree with Dave_J. But will also add to clean the handle edge that touches the piston and the piston head where the handle touches it. Just a little crud there, which does build up, will cause the same behavior. If you ride in the rain, this gets road grime quickly. I tend to lightly sand both the create a smoother surface. The handle plunger must actually slightly slide along the piston head. Not just push on it.
 
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Posting this mostly so others are aware if they see these issues. I lost my brakes while riding. The action was the opposite of a piston/cup failure in the master cylinder (which happened on my old bike but came on more slowly). In that case, you squeeze the handle fully and get no braking action. With the ABS Unit failure, you cannot squeeze the handle and get no braking action. No warning, no indicator, no clue this is what had happened. Just started mid ride. Scary to say the least.

At first I thought it was simply the "handle issue". I ride a lot in rain since coming east; see a lot more of it than in California. So every three months, when it starts to cause problems, I take the handles off and lightly sand down the piston head, brake handle where it contacts the piston head, and the screw holding the handle. Clean everything out. Then I lightly grease everything and put it back together (using dry grease now after giving up on lithium white and black, silicon, graphite, etc). Did that but it did not fix the issue. Still could not squeeze the handle. Hmmm.

So decided it had been awhile since I flushed the brake lines. Fluid was more honey colored than not. When trying to flush, I could not pull more than a teaspoon out of each front brake at the wheel. Double Hmmm.

Removed the top hose from the Master Cylinder and the handle freed up and easily got liquid squirting out when depressing the handle. Even with the hose off at the top, could not draw fluid out the bottom. Triple Hmmm.

Took the bike to a former Suzuki dealer and they basically did the same things and came to the same conclusion I did (i.e. threw their hands up). So I took it to a Suzuki dealer.

They took off all the hoses and blew air through them all. There were no kinks in any hoses (metal or rubber) or any evidence of any failure, wear or other detrimental condition with them. That left the ABS Hydraulic Unit as the likely source. They had hooked up to the harness and cycled the unit but it did not free up and unblock the line. Their Hydraulic Unit part cost to me was $1600. Suzuki website is $1200. But most places do not have it available as it is. The repair shop foreman had been there 20+ years and never heard of a failure of the unit (granted, they have not been available on the bikes for that long). He also was surprised the failure mode was to close the line.

In the end, I decided to go with a used Hydraulic Unit (since they never seem to fail, right?). Once replaced, everything is perfectly fine. (note: getting the old metal hoses off the old unit is near impossible. Be ready to replace some of those lines as well. Luckily the used unit came with the three short metal hoses.)

This bike is a 2007 with only 30,000 miles. Most miles by me but my miles only since 2013 when I replaced my other Burg 650 after being hit (and not having ABS). Bike is garaged. Did have the cooling hoses start to bleed last summer and had to replace them; a first for me even with an aged bike. Attributed it to the east coast weather. Otherwise, this has been a solid and reliable bike like my last one.

So if you find your brake handle stuck so you cannot close it, and you have confirmed it is not simply the handle getting dirt, then be aware the ABS unit could be the failure point. And of course, always be aware it could fail at any point and so ride with the appropriate caution to avoid hard braking; where you can use engine braking and boots with good tread for that final stopping action ;)
Update to my comment earlier.
Flushed the brake master cylinders, took a suggestion not recommended, and my front brake lever no longer freezes after the ABS is activated. Do not try this unless you a pro stunt rider. Gravel road, flat section, hold trottle slightly open, while feeding test bits of front brake. Doing this, catching the sides by releasing the brake lever, the fresh fluid cleared out whatever was causing the hydraulic unit to seize. Then bleeded the brakes again. Like new. Dealer put an estimated bill in front of me for $1807.47. Did not need to pay that after some needed brake maintenance an some stunt riding. So glad.
 

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as mentuined above. i use grease in the area that pushes in the brake piston.
otherwise if you look close you will notice flat spots. you will feel it as "steps" when you pull on them. also the little cubed things activate brake lights and let the bike start as a safety measure. there are Clicking buttons there. they over time get dirt inside the metal mechanism. you may want to press it in as you can and shoot some contact cleaner inside
92121
 
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