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Discussion Starter #1
I know this has been ask at least once before but as far as I can find with a search no one has ever come up with an answer.

I've found in the manual where it list the actions to take for various ABS error codes but I can't find how you can actually get the error code. I though it might show up on the dash if you put the ECM in dealer mode but no it just shows a C00 code.

Does anyone know how to get the code.

Reason I need to know is that I replaced my rear wheel bearings and pulled the front wheel to check the front bearings. When I got everything back together and took it for a test ride the ABS light would not go off.

I've checked for a bent rear sensor ring and the gap between the sensor and ring on both the front and back and those things seem to be OK. Knowing what error code was being set would tell me whether the problem is something I did to the front or back and what to start testing for.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Maybe you do but no $2,000 dollar tools in my tool box :lol: For that matter I don't think I have a single tool that cost more than $100 except for the table lift and my welder and even the welder was only $140.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Went and looked at their web site. Could not use it anyway. You need a PC to run it from and the only one I have is my desktop in the house. I would have to buy a laptop that I could carry out to the shop and that would significantly increase the price tag.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Maybe but I just can't bring myself to send $230 on a piece of software that I would then have to spend more bucks on something to run it on. And no way I'm buying some used laptop off Craigslist or much of anything else either. That sight is totally uncontrolled and there is not much way of knowing what you are buying or who you are buying it from.
 

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And no way I'm buying some used laptop off Craigslist or much of anything else either. That sight is totally uncontrolled and there is not much way of knowing what you are buying or who you are buying it from.
I buy from Craigs list all of the time and I don't have any problem. However, I would never buy anything without seeing and checking out the product and the seller. I use Craigs List to find stuff, not to buy it. When I go to inspect a motorcycle, car, ATV, etc that I have found on Craigs List, I have the opportunity to see how the seller takes care of his or her stuff. If their other stuff looks like it has not been kept clean and well maintained, I don't buy or adjust my offer downward.
 

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You could always degrade your current PC to the garage and buy a new one to use in the house. That way the garage PC would have cost you nothing.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I buy from Craigs list all of the time and I don't have any problem. However, I would never buy anything without seeing and checking out the product and the seller. I use Craigs List to find stuff, not to buy it. When I go to inspect a motorcycle, car, ATV, etc that I have found on Craigs List, I have the opportunity to see how the seller takes care of his or her stuff. If their other stuff looks like it has not been kept clean and well maintained, I don't buy or adjust my offer downward.
Your welcome to buy all you want off it. Most of the time you will probably be OK. However there are to many reports of folks buying stuff that turns up to be stolen merchandise, getting home and finding they have been ripped off and getting mugged when they go to inspect something. I don't care for the hassles.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
You could always degrade your current PC to the garage and buy a new one to use in the house. That way the garage PC would have cost you nothing.
You really want me to buy this thing. Why don't you buy it and let us know how it goes.

To much money for my taste. I'll spend the little extra time it takes to test each item until I find the faulty one if that is the only way I can get the code.
 

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Unlike you, I have no problems to diagnose on my AN650, so it would be strictly to satisfy my curiosity. Unfortunately, I don't have ABS either, so I wouldn't be able to duplicate the fault on yours and see the corresponding readings.
Back to your ABS problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
My problem with it is that it will not provide enough value to make the price worth it. From what I can see all it will provide me is the ability to get the ABS codes and not have to use a multimeter to find out what the values coming from the various sensors are. I can already get the other codes for CVT and engine so on those it just saves me the time it takes to hook up the multimeter to test the one that is setting a code.
 

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IMHO there's a huge difference between reading a code and the ability to monitor and log a score of sensor values simultaneously while the motor is running, and even during a test ride, if you put the laptop in the trunk.
Just the convenience of not having to gain physical access to the sensor plugs, and then pulling them apart to make an unreliable contact with the multimeter probes.
 

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Using the OBD system also allows you to see what the ECU sees vs what the sensor thinks it's saying. Occasionally an important difference. Is it worth $200-$300? Probably not to me.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Yes being able to watch that stuff in real time would be nice but in the real world not that important unless you are trying to tune for optimum performance or tracking a really unusual problem. The ECM already monitors those sensors and as long as they are operating within the acceptable range it will not set a code. That means that for the most part it's an ability you don't need. I've never even had a FI indicator light come on.

In the 6 years and 102,000+ miles I have had this bike it would have been a benefit only twice. Once when I was checking out the TPS and now with this ABS light. In both cases there are cheaper ways to accomplish what needs to be done to fix the problem. The cheaper method takes a little longer but I'm an old retired guy so taking a little more time is less of an issue than spending more money ;).
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Well it has all become a moot point, it seems to have fixed it's self.

After I got the wheels back on the bike I took it for a run about a half mile up the highway in front of my house to check that everything was OK. That was when I discovered the ABS light problem. After that when I was trying to determine why I only road it up and down my driveway to test. My driveway is 250 feet long so I can easily get up to about 15 mph which should have turned it off but didn't.

I'm going on a day ride tomorrow so I decided to take it on a longer test ride to make sure there were no issues other than the ABS light. I pulled out on the highway and when I got up to about 20 mph the light winked out. I stopped and killed the bike then started it again and the light went out at the normal 8 mph. I did that a couple of more times and it worked flawlessly. I got it up to speed then did a hard stop and the ABS kicked in just like it is suppose to.

I'll see what it does on the ride tomorrow but as to a cause :dontknow:
 

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Good news, and cheaper than buying a $229 tester :)

It's quite common for ABS faults to linger on until you've been over a certain speed for some time.
Airbag faults are even more tricky, it's like the president candidate's joint from high school, that just keeps popping up to the surface.
If you've corrected the cause, and the fault lamp keeps coming on, remove the plus cable from the battery and connect the plus cable to ground and leave it there over night. This will drain the back-up power from the airbag controllers, and they will forget stored faults.
I discovered that trick some years ago, when i retrofitted A/C in my car, and had the steering wheel and the dashboard uninstalled.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
It functioned just fine all day today so I guess it has gone away for good.
 
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