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Discussion Starter #1
I'm not trying to advertise but I really want people to know about this product because it really works.. ( Yea , yea.. heard that one before..)

There is a man from michigan with his PHD in Chemistry who made a lubrication additive called Motor Kote. I saw his demo about six years ago in a local store in Ohio ( where I lived) and it convinced me. I'm a licensed aircraft mechanic so know just enough about lubrication and mechanics to be dangerous to myself and the rest of humanity. He has a web site that explains the standardized testing procedures used to determine the real effectiveness of the product. I've used this in every engine I've owned and plan to use it in my new B-400 after it breaks in. Check out his website at Motorkote.com. I'm curious if anyone else here uses it too? I would not tell you about this product if I was not convinced it is the real thing.
 

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As an aircraft engine repairman, are you allowed to put it in an airplane motor? What about Avblend that is approved by the FAA? Why not use it in your scooter?

Over the years I've read about everything I can get my hands on about additives and most, other than Avblend which is a chemical product, are just some sort of refined oil base stock. You pay big money for nothing. Just my opinion of course.

If you want a slight "edge" (and this can't easily be substantiated either), use a top brand synthetic oil.
 

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I have to go with Ted this time, I have seen a lot of products come and go all of them had test reports showing them to be the best . from Slick 50 to STP .
One thing I read .
MOTORKOTE bonds to surfaces upon contact making them super slippery reducing heat build up resulting in smoother operation
. .I don't believe that, for one reason what ever he is using that "bonds" will be large enough for the oil filter to catch and hold
but this is just my opinion with no facts to back it up :(
 

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>If you want a slight "edge" (and this can't easily be substantiated either), use a top brand synthetic oil.[/quote]

On my last Touring Bike, the 1978 Honda Silver Wing Interstate, I used Mobile 1 Synthetic engine oil for 20 years. After 35,000 miles, I took the engine apart to replace the stretched out cam chain, and was AMAZED to see the original new engine cross-hatch marks on the cylinder walls, not a trace of a cylinder ridge, and the rings, main and rod bearings spec'd out as NEW. Mobile 1 could not save the cam chain, :( but the rest of the engine was like NEW. I rode it hard on interstates with the engine purring at 7,000 RPM all day long for MONTHS of riding.

So now I am using synthetic on my Burgman 650. 8)

Fred
 

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Fred, its reports like yours that made me switch to synthetic long long ago. Initilally I used it in two Helix, one Reflex, and several cars, until I got on to Amsoil and now thats my main product. Don't know what effect it may have on Mobile1 quality but they have changed their formula somewhat since being taken over by Exxon. Read somewhere they are now using the cheaper base stock that Castrol and some others use. I would still use it over any other regular oil, or maybe Valvoline as I put high stock in their quality as well. Again, just my opinion. I'll be the first to tell anyone that it may well not matter what you use as long as its changed regularly.

Another long term story: one of my 400 riding buddies is a long time Harley rider. He regularly used Castrol auto motor oil in his '80 something Harley and put 417,000 miles on it with one top end job half way. He rode it up to the Harley plant in York, Pa. and they gave him a new one for it. I think he changed oil every 2000 miles.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I understand why people are sceptical of additives. I don't believein miracle cures either. But I could not doubt my eyes. it was a simple test. Take a rotating steel shaft with a bearing surface. Place a stationary bearing surface that rides on the rotating surface on an "arm" that weight can be hung on... When you reach the point of seizure, ( enough weight on the arm) the shaft ( motor) stops.

Of course the man selling his snake oil was the chemist who made this stuff. Everone around watched in doubt. He'd just repeat the same tests over and over. He had all the well known products like " slick 50:" etc.. he'd fill the oil cup the bearing on the rotating shaft was riding in with the different products and start adding weight. This was about a one foot arm and I can't remember how much weight the average lubricant failed but it was five or ten pounds. It would start smoking then grind and seize. He'd put a little motor kote in the cup and start the rotating shaft. That shaft would not seize... He had to file off the bearing surfaces to repeat the experiment. One person said.. how do we know you are using real products in these bottles.. He went over to the store's shelves.. pulled all new bottles off the shelves and repeated the experiment... Same thing. He was either a magician or a fool for not marketing the stuff he was using on that shaft.

He claims you only have to use it once every 50,000 miles. If he wanted to make money on snake oil.. he'd say every 5,000. What soild me is that he had to put ALOT more weight.. on that shaft..and I mean something like 40 Ft Lbs before it seized. Then he had to grid the surfaces each time to get ths stuff off... Check out his website for the exact tests and independent testing done. I will say one thing.. He backs up his statements with test results from independent labs... I think he shows a video of the shaft test on the web site..
 

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Pretty sure I've seen the same test on TV infomercials. The product may have been Prolong, but not sure. On one of them they also poured sand over the exposed valves, and on others they run a car for hundreds of miles without any oil after it had been treated first with Prolong.

I used to work in an auto store back in the 50's. This was when many of us had old cars with wornout engines pumping oil. Had a little demo gadget to show how good this off brand plug was by pressing a lever that turned on electricity to the plug and dipped it into a dish of oil. Could see the plug just firing away. Sold a lot of plugs that way.

What folks didn't know was that any plug would do the same....I tried a couple of brand names and they too worked just as well. Point is, that same weighted gadget is somehow using trickery, I think.
 

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Everything I've read over the years relative to auto/motorcycle oils recommends just using a good quality oil (weight and classification as recommended by the engine manufacturer) and change it along with the filter at reasonable intervals. I've been using this method for over 40 years and have never had an oil-related problem.
Most of the comments about additives indicate that, in general, they are a waste of money. Most won't do any damage while a few did clog filters. To me, the use of additives in my engines is not worth the risk.
The one thing I did a number of years ago was switch to Mobil 1. Just about all of the experts seem to agree that it works as advertised and provides superior protection. I still change it at 3 - 4 thousand miles for my own peace of mind.
If you really want to scare yourself, do some research on oil filters. I used to belong to the SHO Owners Club and they did a real comprehensive test on oil filters on their web site. They took most of the major brands and cut them open. You'd be surprised at how the quality varies, even among the "most popular" brands. Ouch!
 

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Hate to tell you.............

but this is all BS - pure and simple.

MY qualifications - I am the engineer in charge of the test lab (air and liquid) for Dana Corporation's Wix Filtration Divison. We make Wix Filters, as well as filters for NAPA, Carquest, Penske, and a bunch of other aftermarket sales as well as OE for Ford, Chrysler, Nissan, etc. We also supply the majority of NASCAR teams with their filters. Besides oil filters, we make fuel, water, air, cabin air, hydraulic and other specialty filters. In other words, my every day job involves having my lab tech's test and compare filters with internationally known and approved tests. We are also an independent test lab - in other words, other companies can (and have) sent us filters for certified testing. We are ISO, QS and TSI certified.

These "test results" are laughable. They show and prove nothing other than trying to impress you with numbers that aren't backed up. In no instance do they state how they got those results - any reputable lab would state the SAE, ASTM or ISO test they used. And in my experience, as with products like Slick 50 and Prolong, this stuff won't do a thing to help the Burgie or any other internal combustion engine. NO additive will "bond" to metal to form a super slippery surface - that bunk is touted in every snake oil and just isn't true. The only truthful statement that I can see they make is that there is such a thing as the FT bearing tester, but most labs will still use the Four-Ball EP tester to get LWI results.


Save your money and use a good quality oil - synthetic or dino juice. The most important thing is to change the oil and filter at the recommended intervals.......

And oh - Randy is right about large particles fouling up the filter. That was the case when PTFE (polytetraflouroethylene, otherwise known as Teflon) added products came out. Oil filter was plugged well before it is normally designed to and seized engines.......
 

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Well as one of the best engineers around - :wink:

I say this its all snake oil too!

Apparently there have been loads of case brought against these products -

one on your side of the pond here:



http://www.ftc.gov/opa/1997/12/petapp62.97.htm
 
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