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Discussion Starter #1
Well just put my first 600 miles on the Burgman 650. My first impressions are great, fun bike everything I want it to do with ease. That being said the windshield is useless (unless your 5'), Clearview should be coming soon. The range is really bad about 160 miles per tank (hopefully will get a bit better after break in).

I almost lost it when I went in for service, $375 for my first one :shock: . When I ask the guy how much for the next one he said about the same?!?!? I didn't realize until I bought it that it need valve adjustments every service and how labor intesive it is.

Anyway do you guys mostly do your own service or use the dealer? I'm trying to decide if I want to start getting into servicing it myself or let the dealer do it.

Sorry bout the rant, I'm usually more up beat but this service caught me off guard :cry:
 

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What?

Dude,
Find another location for your service or do it yourself. After the initial service, prices should go way down. My first service was $260.00
My second was $70 and i still think that was high. I will be doing my own oil changes from now on.

John
 

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BC said:
Well just put my first 600 miles on the Burgman 650.

I almost lost it when I went in for service, $375 for my first one :shock: . When I ask the guy how much for the next one he said about the same?!?!? I didn't realize until I bought it that it need valve adjustments every service and how labor intesive it is.
BC,

Welcome to the BurgmanUSA forum.

You don't show where you are from in your profile, but if that is $375 US dollars, it is way high. My dealer isn't cheap, and the bill for my 600 mile service was $192.84. The AN650 does not need its first valve adjustment until 14,500 miles! And then every 14,500 miles thereafter. That is Suzuki's recommendation - look in your owner's manual. I always look at the maintenace schedule in the manual before bringing it in for service so that I know what they should be doing.

I just had my 7,500 mile service done, and it was billed at $272.31. That included new spark plugs and about $50 worth of synthetic oils for engine, transmission, and rear end. Labor was 3 hours - $195. This was my most expensive service so far.

Something sounds way out of line - unless that is a quote in Canadian dollars. And if the dealer really told you that the AN650 needs valve adjustments at every service interval - that's just wrong.
 

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Did my own first service. Very easy to do. I will not be doing the service that requires the valves to be adjusted. I will be leaving that job to the dealer. Welcome to the forum. Mark
 

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I took my 650 into my dealer yesterday for it's 600 mile service. The service manager ( one of the owners) gave me a sheet with a list of all of the items that they would do for the 600 mile service. He asked me if I had any questions or problems for them to check/correct. At the bottom of the sheet it stated that the 600 mile service was $160 and future services requiring valve adjustments would be $155.
This dealer - TransAm Cycles, Litiz, PA - is a Suzuki/Kawasaki/BMW dealer and has an excellent reputation in our area. From what I've seen on this forum and prices I have paid over the years on other bikes, these prices seem to be reasonable. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the info. Yes that's US dollars. I'll be doing my own oil changes and check other dealers for better valve job deals.

What's really sad is that my closest dealer wanted to charge me $500!

Steer clear from the Seattle area when buying/servicing your Burgman's you'll find no deals over here.

-Brian
 

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Hi

As a newbie 400 owner, I just have to ask - what is so difficult about checking adjusting valve clearance yourself on the BigBurger?.

At the very least I reckon most of the labour charge is removing the panels, putting them back and figuring where the one fastener you have left should have gone :wink:
 

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NormanB said:
Hi

As a newbie 400 owner, I just have to ask - what is so difficult about checking adjusting valve clearance yourself on the BigBurger?.
Norman,

It is an absolutely totally different process. The engine is in a different location, so I think there is more dissassembly needed. But the big thing is that the 650 uses "shim under bucket" valve adjustment - the 400 is screw type threaded adjusters. With "shim under bucket", the cams have to come out, and then you are playing games with moving existing shims around - and trying to find the right size new shim or two that you need. Plus its a twin cyclinder - the 400 is a single - so there are more valves to deal with on the 650.

The advantage of "shim under bucket" is much longer intervals between valve adjustments. They hold their adjustment longer. But adjustments cost more. I've heard that Suzuki rates valve adjustment on the 650 at 7.5 hours labor (I haven't verified that though). The dealer shop I go to gets $65/hr for labor...
 

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BC said:
Sorry bout the rant, I'm usually more up beat but this service caught me off guard :cry:
Look that service **** stright in the face and tell him that he is a liar and theif, that the valves are only adjusted at 15000 intervals (then its expensive @ 7 hrs in the flat rate book).

Then hit him with his own wrench. First service is about 150.00 or so.
 

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600 Mile Service

Stopped in at closet dealer on Saturday and spoke to one of the service techs. He stated that while the manual calls for a valve adjustment he is not recommending it at this time. He said the cost of the service would be about $100. I did not purchase the Burgman 650 from this dealer but he said no problem it is still business. :wink:
Richard
 

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BC said:
Steer clear from the Seattle area when buying/servicing your Burgman's you'll find no deals over here.

-Brian
Hello Brian from the Seattle area, I'm Brian from the Seattle area.

Motorcycle Consumer News says valve adjustment on the AN650 should take 3.0 hours labor and $10 in parts. I don't know where they get their figures, but they are considered to be a fairly authoritative source. (Motorcycle Consumer News, May 2004)

And, as mentioned, the valves shouldn't neeed adjusting with every service.

As for getting 160 miles per tank; I just finished a long road trip (596 miles), mostly at 60 - 70MPH, and I was going about 120 - 130 miles before adding 2.5 - 3 gallons. That equates to about 42 miles/gallon. Not bad at freeway speeds (aerodynamic drag increases at the square of the speed, so not much difference between 30 & 50MPH, but a big difference between 50 & 70MPH).

Your milage may vary, but after break-in it should be between 38 and 48 MPG depending on where/how you ride. MCN got High/Low/Avg. ratings of 48.2/38.9/46.4 in their tests.

If you were getting 160 miles per tank, and were completely draining the tank (all 4 gallons), that would equal 40MPG. If you were using 3.5 gallons that would be 45.7MPG, and if you were only using 3 gallons that would be a whopping 53MPG. So it really depends on how low you go before refilling.

HTH.
 

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pauljo said:
NormanB said:
Hi

snip what is so difficult about checking adjusting valve clearance yourself on the BigBurger?.
Norman,

But the big thing is that the 650 uses "shim under bucket" valve adjustment - snip.

The advantage of "shim under bucket" is much longer intervals between valve adjustments. They hold their adjustment longer. But adjustments cost more. snip
Yes, thanks for that - but - can you check if they need adjusting without removing the cams? Is the bike road legal and 'rideable' with the necessary panels removed to do this job?

If the answer to the above questions is YES and YES. Then I would ask the dealer to quote for adjustment without remove or replace panels and book the job in. Then do the rip out , check the clearances if they are OK, phone up the service guy and cancel the job - if not ride it on down! I bet 85% of the cost of this job is panels and tax.

If the answer is No and No, then I am off to find a tree and emulate a canine communicating with its chums over long disatances. :wink:
 

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Hi BC -- I just read most of the thread here, but US$375 for the first service is completely and totally out of hand. To be absolutely frank, they ripped you off. :angryfire:

The 600 mi service does not require any valve adjustment!
:angryfire:

There is no justification for such a huge bill for that kind of work. I would go back there, politely complain and have them explain to me exactly how a $375 charge is justified for the work that was supossed to be done, by the book, for a 600mi service. IF they do not return some of the money, then I would complain to Suzuki directly, and then to BBB etc etc... whomever authorities.

We are an entire forum of Burgman owners here, and the price you were charged is beyond outrageous. Nobody here has paid nowhere near that.
 

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Norman,

No. You cannot check the adjustment without tearing things down to the same point of doing the adjustment. Yes, you could remove body panels and ride the machine to the dealer, but that probably would not equate to an 85% reduction in the cost of the job.

With a 14,500 mile recommended adjustment interval, this doesn't have to be done very often. And, I've owned motorcycles before with shim adjusters. The first adjustment is important. After that, you can usually go much longer than the recommended interval - they hold adjustment quite well. The only thing that causes them to come out of adjustment is if the metal parts wear (shims & cams). With good oil, and regular changes, this should not occur rapidly. The screw type adjusters like the 400 use do not hold adjustment well, and have to be checked & adjusted frequently. Over the long run, shim under bucket is a better design and shouldn't be any more expensive to maintain.
 

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Every one talks about the panels being a big chore. I do alot of my own servicing and have removed almost every panel on this machine. I am willing to say once you are familiar with it all the panels could be removed from the bike in less than 30 minutes. I'm confident in saying I could strip my bike in that time.
 

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!st 600mi Service!

Greetings from Eastern Canada! This morning I had the first inspection done on my AN650 for your info the charges were $153.61 Just thought you would like to be able to compare.Enjoy your weekend I had hoped to go riding but our Foçst is for poss rain. /RW
 

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It seems to me a lot of dealers are charging us for the time it takes the mechanic to learn instead of sending them to school . :(
 

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BC said:
Steer clear from the Seattle area when buying/servicing your Burgman's you'll find no deals over here.
Hey, BC. Don't give up hope.

You didn't say where in the Seattle area you live, but I just made an appointment to get my (over due) 600 mile service at Everett Powersports.

They quoted me $137.00 in labor and $20.00 in parts/fluids.

I bought my two Honda scooters back in the '80s at their predecessor, Everett Honda, and the same two brothers own Everett Powersports. They now are also authorized Suzuki and Bombardier dealers.

They're good people and they've always treated me very well. For example my left mirror housing got broken at the Everett Mall parking lot on Monday and was flopping in the breeze. I was planning on going out of town on Tuesday afternoon but took the bike in on Tuesday morning. They didn't have any silver housings on hand, so they took a blue one off a used bike they're selling so I could do my trip and when the silver one comes in they'll make the swap. I call that above and beyond the call of duty.

Everett Powersports; 215 SW Everett Mall Way; Everett, WA 98204.
Phone: (425) 347-4545 (Everett) or (206) 343-7980 (Seattle) • Fax: (425) 791-0280
E-mail: [email protected]
 

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I just booked the 1000km service and was told it was $83 plus the cost of the fluids and tax. Thats in Canadian dollars.
 

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NormanB,

Don't ride the 400 without panels unless you wear a fez hat (haha).

No, you don't have to remove engine parts to do the adjustment except
covers and sub-assemblies.
Use a Service Manual 99500-34080-03E.

I got the hang of doing my own tappets and I want to tell you:

> Panels on the 400 are the least of the labor. I didn't detach the
bottom part and only removed the cover over the engine, seat
and separated the two pieces on the left rear side.

> Have plenty of light to view the tappets. Removing the injector stuff
and hoses is a whole other task just to gain access to the valve cover.
The intakes are on top and the exhausts are bottom. Various posts on
doing them state that the exhausts are rarely out of adjustment.
Use the Suzuki tool (09917-14920) to turn the screws.

> Removal of the air cleaner is difficult. I pulled the two screws out of the
air cleaner to better clear the area when pulling it out.
I removed the big hose between the box and the injector for easier
tugging of the box.

> After setting TDC, I had to pull the rocker arm away from the tappet
by hand in order to get the correct clearances. This was not in the book
and I now believe I did the job too early when the engine was still too
tight but it runs great now.
Aligning the valve cover gasket to the lid for re-assembly was difficult. Make sure its
groove is seated all the way around to prevent leaks.

After this first adjustment, I get 70mpg with 87 octane gas on the highway.

---

Breaking-in the AN400K3 was tedious and I wish that Suzuki would prepare
these engines at the factory so we don't have to baby them for weeks on end.
Automobiles have pre-run engines that allow coast to coast trips right off
the dealers lot.

Out of the box, an AN400 won't get past 4,800 rpm without a lot of speeding.
After break-in and valve adjustment, the rpm's swing way past 5,000 (at will) while starting out
with moderate to high throttle.
 
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